A weekly ode to the joys of moaning about your holiday, by Tim Roxborogh
"An absolute must while in Vietnam is seeing a water-puppet show." I can still remember the line in the guidebook, but it wasn't limited to merely the dog-eared book I was lugging around Southeast Asia. Every brochure I picked up in Vietnam told me the same thing. Seemingly in the same league as a visit to the limestone peaks of Halong Bay or the tunnels of Cu Chi was a night in the presence of these historic puppets.
So off we went. About five minutes in, a growing sense of panic began to consume me: this alarmingly, catastrophically, monumentally boring show was due to last an entire hour and a half. Splashing about in a tank in front of seating for about 100 people were a handful of puppets. A non-translated story was being told via limited movements, evidently something to do with old-time yarns about fishing, the monsoon and harvests.
At the risk of sounding like a patronising tourist who is neither interested nor sophisticated enough (too late) to appreciate a key local touchstone like splashy-splashy water puppetry, a couple of points in my defence. One, the rich, varied culture of Vietnam is something the country's huge population (almost 100 million) is rightfully very proud of. Two, I've been transfixed by so much of what I've seen during my visits to Vietnam. From the history to the architecture to the food to the wonders of nature, Vietnam is genuinely one of the most rewarding tourist destinations on the planet.
To which hopefully you're now saying, "I get it already! You're not some cultural imperialist culture-phobe!" Regardless, I'm hoping you'll appreciate honesty that's coming from a good place. And that honesty is irrespective of the fact that although Vietnamese water puppetry dates from the 11th century, witnessing a show in the 21st century does a breathtaking job of redefining boredom.