Surviving the Larapinta Trail means smart planning—this guide covers the best routes, water sources, and essentials. Photo / Tegan Forder
Surviving the Larapinta Trail means smart planning—this guide covers the best routes, water sources, and essentials. Photo / Tegan Forder
Tackling Australia’s Larapinta Trail without a guide isn’t easy, but it is rewarding. This is everything you need to know if you’re up for the adventure, writes Tegan Forder
Tackling the Larapinta Trail near Alice Springs in the Northern Territory, Australia is not for the faint-hearted. I encountered 37-degree heat, rocky tracks that really tested my ankles, and a realisation that I wasn’t as fit as I should have been. But I also walked through fields of wildflowers, saw thousands of stars, and was humbled by the sheer magnitude of the landscape and history surrounding me.
Walking through Tjoritja (West MacDonnell Ranges), home to the Arrernte people (pronounced Arrunda) for more than 40,000 years, is an unforgettable experience. There are organised walking tours that guide you through sections of the trail, prepare food and take some of the load off your back, but you can tackle it with a group of friends or even solo if you’re really adventurous.
With its undulating landscapes, gorges and chasms, here’s how to prepare for the trail without a guide.
When I went, it was close to the end of the trail season, which runs from April to September. As it turns out, it was probably a bit too close, with unseasonably high temperatures hitting on day one and little reprieve for the remainder of the hike. If you want to avoid walking in the high 30s, aim for the autumn or winter months to give yourself cooler days and fewer flies! You’ll need to pack for the cold desert nights though, as temperatures can drop sharply once the sun disappears.
One of the biggest highlights was the wildflowers, which were putting on one of the best shows in years thanks to rainfall earlier in the season. The landscape was lush, the waterholes were full and there was a patchwork of purple, yellow, pink, white and green – startling against the ochre soil and rockfaces. With more than 700 species of flora on the trail – from feathery mulla mullas to vivid Harlequin mistletoe – the bright pops of colour will keep you motivated to continue walking (and might occasionally make a good excuse to stop for a rest).
Cool, cloudless nights in the winter months also make for good stargazing. If it’s not too cold, you can take the fly off your tent and watch the night sky as you drift off into an exhausted slumber.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you may want to take on the entire 231 kilometres of the trail, from Alice Springs Telegraph Station to Mt Sonder – this can take anywhere from 12 to 21 days. You can organise supply drops yourself (or outsource) by getting a key from Parks NT and leaving supplies at the official storage points along the trail at Ellery Creek and Ormiston Gorge. This way you won’t have to carry as much and can look forward to a replenished food supply, spare clothes and treats.
A good thing about the track is that you can walk the trail in either direction. Many sections are graded 5 (difficult), so if you are planning on doing about a week’s worth of hiking, you might want to factor in how hard you want to go.
Starting from Standley Chasm Angkerle Atwatye and ending at Ellery Creek Big Hole will take you through some challenging terrain, but also some of the most breathtaking views and changes in landscapes. Or go the other way and end your trek with a hot shower and burger at Standley.
The section between Mt Sonder and Ormiston Gorge is impressive in both directions, but to feel extra proud of yourself, you could walk towards Mt Sonder and then climb it on your last morning.
However you decide to experience the Larapinta Trail, download an offline trail map app like maps.me or AllTrails on your phone (there are charging stations at the campsites) so you can find your way back to the path if you get lost. Signage is pretty good, but there are sections where you might get disoriented and miss an arrow. Mobile coverage is very limited so it’s highly recommended you hire a personal locator beacon to take with you.
The toughest sections are graded 5, meaning “difficult” with steep, rocky terrain. Photo / Tegan Forder
Plan on making a detour
Birthday Waterhole near 4/5 Junction trailhead is a delicious slice of coolness much needed after a day’s walk. Leave yourself some daytime hours to relax and enjoy this beautiful spot. Wild horses can be spotted around the area too although it’s good to keep in mind these are feral animals that cause environmental damage. It was quite an ethereal experience seeing them, particularly against the backdrop of an overnight storm replete with lighting. All very dramatic when you’re in the middle of nowhere.
Hugh Gorge is also another beautiful spot to venture to if you’ve got the time. A bit of rock scrambling is involved, but the payoff is worth it with a deep rockpool surrounded by red cliffs and cycads. Depending on the time of year, you might be able to take a dip too.
Birthday Waterhole. Photo / Tegan Forder
Beat the heat when it comes
I’m not going to lie, walking in high temperatures was brutal. Start as early as you can, keeping in mind you may not want to walk in the dark too much and miss the scenery. Allow time for rests and drink breaks. Shade can be patchy, so take advantage of it when you come across it.
It goes without saying you need to drink plenty of water and take a lot of electrolytes. Lollies are good, but don’t eat so many you overdose on sugar – have some salty snacks on hand and eat regular meals. A broad-brimmed hat is a necessity, as are long sleeves and lightweight breathable material – although, on a 37-degree day, nothing is going to save you from the sweat.
If you’re walking with others, check how much water you all have to make sure you’re covered. Park rangers fill the water tanks at the rest stops but they can run out, and not all of them have one, so check ahead. If your camp site doesn’t have a tank, you need to carry enough water (around 8 litres) for drinking, your dinner and breakfast the next morning.
There may be access to waterholes or riverbeds along the way, but it’s not guaranteed they’ll be full or fresh. You’ll want to heavily treat any water you collect with water purification tablets and boil for a few minutes and let it cool.
Temperatures can swing from 37°C in the day to below freezing at night. Photo / Tegan Forder
Don’t skip pre-hike preparation
If you have weak ankles (like me) or sore knees, then a trip to the physio before your hike is worth it. Ask about strengthening exercises you can do in preparation and if it’s worth investing in a proper ankle or knee brace (strapping can be annoying but is a good back-up to pack). My ankles are already suspect, and I found the rocky parts of the track (particularly the dry river beds) quite challenging. A walking pole or two are a big help in these sections and don’t forget to break in your hiking boots before you leave to help reduce blisters and get a sense of how your feet are going to feel.
Fitness-wise, getting a few short hikes under your belt will help to get you match fit, while I’d also advise tackling some flights of stairs (something I didn’t do enough of) to get you up to the top of those ridges. Training for balance and agility, as well as strength, will help you to carry the extra water across some tough passages.
Get a massage to smooth out any aches and pains and do a lot of stretching in preparation – particularly your quads, hip flexes and calves.
The Larapinta Trail may seem daunting, but a little preparation and a flexible mindset will help you to enjoy the experience (as much as you can while sweating and carrying 23kg) and leave you feeling pretty chuffed with yourself.
From scorching heat to stunning sunsets, the Larapinta Trail is as rewarding as it is challenging. Photo / Tegan Forder
Checklist
The Larapinta Trail, Northern Territories, Australia.
Air NZ, Qantas, Jetstar and LATAM fly direct from Auckland to Sydney International Airport. Transfer to Sydney’s Domestic Airport and fly with Qantas to Alice Springs in just over three hours.
