Go on a South African road trip for diverse landscapes, from Cape Town's charm to wildlife encounters in Addo. Photo / 123rf
Go on a South African road trip for diverse landscapes, from Cape Town's charm to wildlife encounters in Addo. Photo / 123rf
If you’re looking for an adventure that will awaken your senses and leave you wanting more, a South African road trip is for you, writes Bonnie Culbertson
South Africa is a dream destination for many. Yet it is nearly impossible to experience the entirety of this vast, exotic, complex and incredibly diverse country in one single trip. Your best chance is to tackle it with a cross-country road trip.
Recently, my husband and I did just that. Traversing the southern part of this incredible country from the bustling metropolis of Cape Town to the storied town of Hogsback, birthplace of Lord of the Rings author JRR Tolkein (and, many believe, the inspiration for the landscapes of Middle-earth). Throughout our journey, we crammed in everything from epic coastal views and charming towns to rustic game lodges and unforgettable wildlife encounters. If you’re dreaming of a South African adventure, buckle up (seriously, some of the roads here are in dire need of maintenance) and let this serve as your ultimate cross-country guide.
Our journey began in Cape Town, a city brimming with energy and natural beauty. We hiked Lion’s Head, the reward being a breathtaking panorama of the sprawling city below. For a touch of retro cool, we rented a cherry-red 1960s Cobra and cruised Chapman’s Peak Drive, which hugs the mountain cliffs as they plummet into the sea. It’s considered to be one of the world’s most scenic drives and did not disappoint.
For a truly special dinner, we treated ourselves to La Colombe. The award-winning restaurant serves some of the freshest, best quality and - most importantly - truly sustainable seafood, thanks to a partnership with local, low-impact fishing operation, Greenfish. Knowing our meal supported responsible fishing practices made it even more enjoyable.
Wine, wellness and donkeys: Franschhoek’s hidden gems
After a whirlwind few days in Cape Town, we rented a car and headed northeast to Franschhoek, a haven for wine aficionados nestled amongst rolling vineyards. We opted to stay at Sterrekopje Farm Retreat, a regenerative estate that felt worlds away from the bustling city. Each day started with a delicious breakfast prepared with farm-fresh ingredients, followed by a blissful spa treatment and lazy afternoons reading or napping in the grasses beside its incredible and fragrant gardens. The highlight for me, though? Spending time hanging with and snuggling the resident donkeys, horses and pigs.
Oudtshoorn: Ostriches, elephants and unexpected luxury
Our next stop was Oudtshoorn, a town in the heart of South Africa’s ostrich farming country. On your way there, be prepared to share the road with the occasional truckload of these long-legged giants, just-visible heads bobbing and swaying with the traffic. We stayed at Buffelsdrift Game Lodge, a tented glamping resort bordering the Swartberg Mountains. The highlight of our stay was our first bush safari of the trip, where we came face-to-face with herds of Springbok (South Africa’s national animal) as well as some giraffes, zebras and even a playful group of meerkats. Sipping on sundowners by the waterhole, watching hippos float about in the distance, was pure magic.
Knysna: A paradise for beach bums and nature enthusiasts
Following Oudtshoorn, we continued our journey along South Africa’s famous Garden Route. While the exact starting point is up for debate, the Garden Route undeniably offers some of South Africa’s most stunning coastline drives and stops. This scenic 200km stretch winds its way from towns like Mossel Bay (a four-hour drive from Cape Town) through George, Wilderness, Sedgefield and the charming town of Knysna, where we made our next stop. Knysna offers something for everyone, from kayaking along tranquil rivers, hiking through lush coastal forests and exploring the town’s vibrant markets and waterfront restaurants. A visit to Knysna wouldn’t be complete without indulging in some fresh oysters, especially if you’re lucky enough to be there during the annual Oyster Festival.
For an unforgettable stay, we splurged on a night at Pezula Private Castle. This whimsical property, perched on a cliff overlooking Noetzie Beach, felt like stepping into a fairytale. At night, we took in the stars from our private balcony overlooking the sea, and in the morning opted for a run along the beach, from which we spotted dolphins frolicking in the waves.
Knysna along the Garden Route invites beach lovers and oyster enthusiasts alike. Photo / 123rf
Cape St Francis: A relaxing interlude before the Big Game
The drive from Knysna to Addo Elephant National Park was a leisurely one, allowing us to soak in the beauty of the Garden Route National Park. We stopped for a delicious lunch at a charming roadside cafe and even took a thrilling zipline adventure over cascading waterfalls with Tsitsikamma Falls Adventures. Our final stop before the big game was Cape St Francis, a quaint beach town with a picturesque lighthouse. A stroll along the beach at sunset was the perfect way to unwind before our next safari adventure.
Indulge in fresh oysters at Knysna's vibrant markets and waterfront restaurants. Photo / Bonnie Culbertson
Addo Elephant National Park: Where giants roam
Addo Elephant National Park is a must for any wildlife enthusiast. Home to the Big Seven: lion, elephant, leopard, rhinoceros, buffalo plus the great white shark and southern right whale in its adjoining marine environment. It offers unparalleled opportunities to witness Africa’s incredible creatures in their natural habitat. We opted for a self-drive safari, allowing us to explore the park at our own pace. The sheer number of elephants we encountered was awe-inspiring, as the park is home to more than 700.
Addo Elephant National Park is home to lions, elephants, rhinos and even marine life like the great white shark and southern right whale. Photo / Bonnie Culbertson
Addo to Amakhala: Unveiling more of the Eastern Cape’s treasures
Leaving Addo with unforgettable memories, we continued our journey eastward toward Amakhala Game Reserve. Unlike Addo, Amakhala is a private game reserve. This meant smaller crowds and a more personalised safari experience. We stayed at Quatermain’s 1920′s Safari Camp, a charming and nostalgic tented camp that transported us back to a bygone era of exploration. The evenings were spent huddled around a crackling bonfire, sharing stories with staff and fellow travellers and listening to the nocturnal symphony of the African bush.
The game drives and walking safaris at Amakhala were nothing short of exceptional. Our experienced guides expertly navigated the reserve, leading us to sightings of lions, elephants, playful zebras and graceful giraffes. Yet, surprisingly, one of the highlights was learning from our guide’s in-depth knowledge about the unique properties of each of the local plants, including their medicinal uses and role in the broader animal ecosystem.
Quatermain’s 1920s Safari Camp offers personalised safaris that bring you closer to the heart of the African wilderness. Photo / Bonnie Culbertson
Hogsback: Where Tolkien’s imagination took flight
Our final stop on this incredible South African adventure was Hogsback, a small village nestled amidst the Amatola Mountains. This place holds a special significance for fans of JRR Tolkien (myself included), as it’s believed to have been a source of inspiration for the landscapes of Middle-earth. The rolling hills, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls certainly bear an uncanny resemblance to the Shire and Eleven Kingdoms he describes. One thing we noticed right away was the complete quiet of this town, the kind that blankets you and lulls you into a feeling of deep inner peace. We opted to stay at a cosy cottage Airbnb owned by a local couple. While the wife was away that evening, the husband - an entrepreneur and UK transplant - joined us for dinner and informed us all about life in this quiet town full of creatives and nature lovers.
One of the most memorable experiences in Hogsback was horseback riding with Mark Keese’s Horses for Healing. His gentle giants not only provided us with a unique way to explore the breathtaking scenery - sometimes described as the Switzerland of Africa - but also exuded a steady, calming presence that touched our souls. Trotting along the hilltop pastures surrounded by towering peaks was a moment of pure peace and connection with nature.
Hogsback is a village believed to have inspired JRR Tolkien’s Middle-earth. Ride horses amidst stunning landscapes described as the "Switzerland of Africa". Photo / 123rf
Beyond the Itinerary: Tips and tricks for your South African road trip
Planning a road trip through South Africa can be daunting but, with a little preparation, it can be an unforgettable experience. Here are some tips and tricks I learned along the way:
Renting a car: Having your own transportation gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace and stop whenever you see something interesting. That said, as I mentioned the roads along the way have sometimes seen better days, so booking one with a higher clearance can really help.
Book your accommodation in advance: Especially during peak season, popular spots tend to fill up quickly and you don’t want to arrive in a remote location with nowhere to stay.
Pack for all types of weather: South Africa has many diverse microclimates, so be prepared for anything from sunny and dry to cold, wet and windy weather.
Embrace the local cuisine: South African cuisine offers a delicious blend of African, European, and Malay influences. Don’t be afraid to try something new! And be sure to pair it with one of the incredible, and affordable wines from the Western Cape.
Support sustainable practices: Many lodges and restaurants are committed to responsible tourism practices. Do your research and choose establishments that align with your values.
Relax and enjoy the ride: South Africa is a beautiful country with a lot to offer. Don’t overschedule yourself and allow time to make surprise stops (we did an impromptu kayak ride that was well worth it) and soak it all in.
A fond farewell to South Africa
The incredible landscapes, the diverse wildlife, and the warm hospitality of the South African people left an indelible mark on our hearts. A South African road trip is a great way to at least begin to experience the magic of what this remarkable country has to offer.
