Lyndsay Sharp, the Auckland-born owner of Leura Park Estate, along with her husband David, has become a prominent figure on the Bellarine wine scene. Photo / Leura Park Estate
Most people come to the Bellarine Peninsula southwest of Melbourne for the popular surf coast, but two Kiwis are helping put this lesser-known wine region on the map, writes Kirstie Bedford
If passion were a person it’d be Lyndsay Sharp.
The Auckland-born owner of Leura Park Estate in the Bellarine is all smiles as she bounds into her winery restaurant in her signature oversized glasses and bright pink lipstick. And why wouldn’t she be smiling? Since moving to the region 20-odd years ago, Sharp and her husband, David, are now household names — owners of Leura Park, Jack Rabbit Vineyard, Flying Brick Cider Company, wine brand Yes said the Seal, and Curlewis Golf Club.
We’re sitting at a table near the fireplace, grazing on an al fresco paddle board of Portarlington house-smoked meats, spicy Flying Brick Cider marinated chicken drums and local olives — all curated by Sharp’s son, Sam, who is the chef.
The restaurant has a homely feel, helped by the resident cat sidling up to us, and Sharp says it’s because of this “family culture” — as well as having a climate akin to the best French wine regions — that the wines are so good here.
“All the wineries are family owned. This is what makes this region so special. Most of the time, if you come to any of us, you’re talking to the owners, the kids. They’re passionate about it, they genuinely love the region. There’s a lot of love that goes into the grapes.”
A stone’s throw away is McGlashan’s Wallington Estate, another family-owned business. Started by Russell and Jan McGlashan, daughters Maddy and Jaimie have taken over and now also brew beer and gin on site.
Over a FarmDog Pandan gin (their gin label), Russell tells me he had no intention of launching a winery when he first bought the property — an image you couldn’t imagine after driving up to the huge, rustic cellar door, past rows of picture-perfect vines.
“I was an abalone diver looking for somewhere to build a shed for my boats and bought the land, but you couldn’t build here without some sort of agriculture, so I called a local famous winemaker called Robin Brockett for advice, and he said if you plant vines, I’ll buy the fruit.”
Brockett says he was happy to offer advice, and then make a bit of wine for McGlashan that he thought was so good, he encouraged McGlashan to enter it into a local wine competition. He did that and it won, and, as they say, the rest is history.
Brockett, who was recently inducted into the Geelong Wine Hall of Fame, still makes McGlashan’s wine, as well as local wine labels Scotchmans Hill, Oakdene, Terindah and Baie.
But Brockett’s interest in wine started years earlier in New Zealand. Born in Christchurch, he went to Lincoln College and then worked at St Helena Winery Estate near Belfast before making the move to Australia, where he was eventually offered the role at Scotchmans Hill.
Much like Sharp, Brockett says it’s the people who make for great wines in this little pocket of Victoria’s southwest.
“We don’t just deal in a couple of varieties. Everyone is trying different things with different styles and varieties being made. And it will only get better and stronger as the region matures. There are new players coming along that are adding to the vibrancy of the region.”
As for his picks of the best wines to try when you’re visiting: “The chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz. They are all world class.”
Luxury stays and ‘Oneday’
That night we stay at Lon Retreat, a property that’s been in the family for six generations.
Claire Geme’s parents first opened the property as a bed and breakfast, which they ran for more than two decades before Claire and husband Rob took over.
The property was renovated with a mantra of “take a breath” — and you can feel it as soon as you enter. Soft music plays and guests (there are only seven suites) lounge in robes (post-spa treatments) in the open-planned lounge in front of floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking manicured gardens.
After checking in to our suites, sprawling spaces dressed in calming neutral tones, I opt for a full body massage, take a dip in the mineral water-fed heated pool (sourced from the on-site mineral springs) and then pour a Teddy & the Fox gin — a local distiller. There’s an entire area dedicated to the creations of local makers and growers that Claire says “takes advantage of what we have on the Bellarine and shows it off to the rest of the world”.
The next morning I’m headed out on a cycle tour with Vine Tours, and after two days of wining and dining, I’m looking forward to exploring more of this bucolic countryside.
Owned by Melbourne friends Allison Hatton and Libbie Geason, the pair take cycling tours all over Victoria, including the Bellarine Rail Trail, where we’re headed. It’s a 32km route that runs alongside the historic railway, used by only vintage trains including luxury rail restaurant The Q Train. We’re cycling about 22km to Oneday Estate Winery, another family-run business, owned by former chippie and footballer Sam Murray, who decided to turn the former potato factory into a winery.
Opened only on Sundays (hence the name), it’s worth a visit here if only to see the eclectic collection of salvaged materials he has incorporated into the buildings. Pillars from the old Barwon Heads Bridge, timbers from the Queenscliff Marina, and remnants from the old Ocean Grove Catholic Church.
We find a table out the front where live music is playing and the sun is shining, and as I watch families laugh and kids dance to the music and sip my pinot noir, I think of what Lyndsay Sharp said about all the love going into those grapes ... and maybe it’s just the wine talking, but I’m sure I can taste it.