The magic of tepees at a Raglan retreat

Raglan is famous for its left-hand surf break, reputed to be the longest in the world. Photo / Amos Chapple

A caboose, tepee, railway carriage, or concrete silos - where to doss down for the night in Raglan?

The accommodation options are outside the square, but that's kinda what you'd expect in this popular west coast town where alternative reigns.

Here the population make-up weighs heavily in favour of artists, musicians and, of course, surfers - after all, Raglan is famous for its left-hand surf break, reputed to be the longest in the world.

My family of six feels quite at home here; amongst us we have music and art lovers and the surfboards atop the car roof attest some of us know about things like hanging 10 and goofy footers.

Last time my husband and I visited we rented Midge Marsden's pad with its peaceful harbour views and extensive music selection. Staying at the blues legend's house was a special treat at the end of a 55km bike-ride from Hamilton to Raglan one morning.

Two years later and we've returned, minus the bikes and plus our four sons. Tepees seem the obvious accommodation choice. They make our night away sound adventurous enough to spark the boys' interest and I'm not sure when else we'll get the chance to do the wigwam thing.

Six kilometres out of town and above the popular surf beaches is Solscape, which is a retreat-styled, eco-friendly and laidback place to stay. Boring doesn't get a look-in at this place with its jaw-droppingly beautiful ocean views and accommodation choices including cabooses, railway carriages and eco-friendly baches. And then five minutes' walk into the bush is the tepee site.

Solscape's owners Bernadette Gavin and Phil McCabe added what they've named the "Tipi Retreat" to their summer accommodation options only last year. (The tepees are taken down in winter to preserve them.)

Tipi Retreat is off the grid and fits snugly within Bernadette and Phil's desire to teach people how they can "live with a softer footprint". There's solar-powered showers and LED lighting, fresh mountain stream water, a recycling station, and the flashest long-drops I've ever seen. They're actually composting loos with separate poo and wee shoots. Not quite good enough for our 7-year-old, it quickly appears. "The long-drop's not long enough," he declares with aplomb, "'cos I can still see other people's poo."

The magic of the tepees - there are six of them nestled amongst punga and manuka - soon distract him. In fact, we are all especially enchanted by the traditional smoke flaps, which can be left open for stargazing on clear nights.

The four boys share one tepee, and the youngest two are happy to discover they can shuffle their beds - made up with quality linen - up alongside their big brothers' at night-time.

About 50 per cent of those who stay at Solscape are foreigners. The first person we come across is a Dutchman in a van emblazoned with the message "Nothing makes you forget about love, like sex". It's little wonder, I later reflect, that this colourful place intrigues our eldest son. Our 17-year-old thinks this could be a great roadie-trip destination with his mates next summer, with the railway carriages worth some investigation.

I joke he could stay for free if he taps into Solscape's WWOOFing (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) Scheme. There's actually quite a bit more to Solscape than accommodation. Hawaiian massage, yoga classes, workshops and courses in permiculture and deep ecology are all on offer. So too are surf- and kite-boarding lessons, which is not so surprising given Bernadette and Phil's mantra to surf as many hours as humanely possible.

We resisted all the pampering and enriching experiences on offer, as the call of the surf was just too strong. So too was the desire to explore alongside our friends Julie Chadwick, Glenn Sinclair and their daughters. Also holidaying at Solscape, they've opted to spend the night in "Sky Haven" which is just fine rather than flash, with a coastal view that is five star-plus.

The obligatory first stop, according to my husband who surfed Raglan as a teen, is Manu Bay. After catching many a wave, our 14-year-old declares it's the best surfing experience he's had. That may be so, but it has to be said one particular Raglan surfer puts my East Coast surfers to shame. The local lad, who apparently goes by the name of Ritchie Rim, treats anyone who's watching to fabulous entertainment as he performs forward rolls and headstands on his board.

The boys sniff out some more water action later in the day. A 5m jump from the rail of Raglan's wee across-harbour bridge is a must-do, they inform. A passer-by tells me he's been coming to Raglan for about 20 years and jumping off that bridge is almost a compulsory, rite-of-passage kind of thing.

Raglan also offers plenty of less active pursuits, with a host of cafes and galleries to tempt. Coffee and cake at Tongue and Groove Cafe is a sustaining stop before I hit the galleries. There's Kanuka Gallery and the old school house that has been converted into creative space. Yet it's at Jet ART Collective where I linger to soak up vintage buttons and old postage stamps that have become artistic accessories.

This gallery showcases work by a self-professed eclectic mix of Raglan artists. I inch my way along displays of photo blocks, ceramic letters and dipping bowls, fabric bags and cuffs, doorstops, cool T-shirts and jewellery before reaching the counter to pay for my irresistible must-haves.

With the teenagers happily checking out the surf shops, the rest of us wander (nobody seems to really rush here) to the Independent Grocer where natural juice, gluten-free and organic products are big sellers. And it's hard to bypass the handcrafted leather footwear on the shelves at Soul Shoes.

We all re-group later to check out another example of this zany and charming town's accommodation. Former Golden Bay silos on Raglan wharf are now a getaway spot with a difference, with three different apartments for rent.

While the old Raglan pub looks as if it could offer a good time, we bypass it, mindful of an early start in the morning. My suggestion of a walk to the nearby Bridal Falls has been over-ruled in favour of a morning surf at Ocean Beach. So, we head to the hills to Solscape and, with torches in hand, begin our journey into the bush. There our tepees and the twinkling stars wait.

WHERE TO STAY

The mix includes backpackers, motels, the historic hotel and the
Kopau Holiday Park, which is nearly surrounded by water. For
something a little different, check out solscape.co.nz and wharfpad.co.nz.

Midge Marsden's pad on rohimanu.co.nz offers boutique accommodation in contemporary homes.