Tiritiri Matangi Open Sanctuary is a taonga (treasure) of the Hauraki Gulf that is sometimes, somewhat surprisingly, overlooked. This is an island that should be on everyone's wish list, whether you live in Tāmaki Makaurau Auckland or are just visiting.
Throughout history, the island has hosted a range of tangata, including early Māori who thrived on the plentiful kaimoana. Later, European settlers cleared the island to farm cattle and sheep. During World War II, the island served as a military observation post and it's also played an important role in Auckland's maritime history. A lighthouse still stands at the eastern end of the island. However, after the incredible vision and hard work by many volunteers, the island is now a regenerating forest teeming with native wildlife. Better yet, it's open to visitors.
There are a number of remarkable creatures that call this motu home. This includes the kōrora (little blue penguin), wētā punga (giant weta), tuatara as well as several native birds including the takehē, kākāriki (red-crested parakeet), kōkako, pāteke (brown teal duck), hihi (stitch bird), tīeke (saddleback) and the very special kiwi pukupuku (little spotted kiwi), the smallest of the five kiwi species. Spring through to early summer is such a wonderful time to visit the island as the birds are nesting and raising chicks. Then as summer approaches, the pōhutakawa put on a magical display when they erupt into full bloom. Mid-summer through to autumn is equally special with great weather and warm days for exploring outdoors.
When the weather plays ball, exploring this island paradise makes a wonderful getaway from Aotearoa's largest city. Catching the morning ferry from downtown Auckland allows for a splendid sightseeing cruise as you leave the city and head for the Gulf Harbour marina. This is where the ferry will collect a second group of passengers (if you're one of them, leave your vehicle in the parking lot free of charge for the day). Before boarding, all passengers will go through a biosecurity inspection, which will involve a Department of Conservation (DoC) staff member and a specially trained canine. The journey from the city takes approximately 75 minutes and just 20 minutes from Gulf Harbour.
When booking ferry tickets with Fullers, you also have the option to book a guided tour. This is highly recommended; your volunteer guide will be able to share the history of the island and help you identify the precious flora and fauna. Upon arriving, visitors are greeted and briefed by a local DoC staff member.
The tours are timed to finish around lunchtime at the visitor's centre, where you'll find bathrooms, a gift shop and informative displays. Food cannot be purchased on the island so you'll need to pack lunch, snacks and drinks. However, cold drinks can be bought and there is complimentary tea and coffee. Nearby, you'll find the lighthouse, Bunk House accommodation (more on that to come) and a favourite hangout for resident takahē.
The ferry departs at 3.30pm so there's plenty of time to explore further afield. If it's warm, taking a dip in the cobalt water proves irresistible, just remember to keep an eye on the time as missing the ferry will result in a very expensive water taxi home.
Those spending the night on Tiritiri Matangi Island will have already secured a bed in the Bunk House. Bookings via the DoC website fill up months in advance, especially over the summer months. It is a good idea to check on the website regularly as cancellations occur and you may be able to snap up a bed. The Bunk House is no five-star resort but a 15-bed cottage that once housed the island's lighthouse keeper. Although the accommodation is comfortable and well equipped, it is the entertaining nightlife that attracts most people to stay. The bunkhouse is well equipped with cooking facilities, crockery and utensils as well as fridges and freezers but you will need to bring bedding, food and drinks. Luggage is transported from the ferry to the bunkhouse upon arrival to the island so there is no need to worry about lugging anything around.
Once the crowds have gone, it is nice to relax with drinks and nibbles and get to know the other guests. Alcohol is allowed but in moderation. If it is a nice afternoon, it is worth finding a view to watch the sunset. There will be time to prepare, cook and enjoy dinner before it gets dark, which is when the real fun begins. There are two highlights of spending the night on Tiritiri Matangi Island and the first is the opportunity to explore the island at night to see kiwi, tuatara and whatever else is lurking about under the starlit sky.
It is important to know that all torches and nightlights must be red. Kiwi do not like bright lights at night but red lights do not bother them at all. It is easy enough to cover a light with red cellophane and there is likely to be some at the Bunkhouse left by previous guests. There is a strategy to finding kiwi and it starts with patience. Move slowly and make as little noise as possible, listening for rustling on the forest floor. They like to call to one another from dusk so listen out for that, they can be surprisingly loud. Tuatara are harder to spot and a keen eye is needed to see them as they're experts at remaining statue still. As with all elusive creatures, seeing one is a real treat.
The second highlight of staying overnight is waking up to the dawn chorus, the most delightful sound of birds alerting the world that a new day has arrived. It might not quite be a harmony but hearing the song of the tūī alongside the delightful tīeke and chattering kākāriki with some of the little birds throwing their own medley into the mix is something truly magical. There is no be a better way to start the day.
Take advantage of all your extra time on the island by snorkelling, swimming and exploring (pack all the right gear so you don't miss out). Hobbs Beach and Fisherman Bay are great places for a frolic in the water. There is plenty of time to reach all corners of the island and discover places that cannot be achieved during a one-day visit.
Anyone who experiences the magic of Tiritiri Matangi Island will cherish their time there. Whether you decide to visit for a day or you're fortunate enough to stay overnight, you will no doubt want to return again and again.
Check alert level restrictions and Ministry of Health advice before travel. covid19.govt.nz
