The day a goddess became a friend

The shrine to Konohana Sakuya who presides over Mt Fuji. Picture / Jim Eagles

I feel a great warmth towards Konohana Sakuya Hime, the goddess who presides over Japan's iconic mountain, Fuji. In fact, if it's not too presumptuous, I'd say I regard the goddess as a friend.

Our relationship began when I arrived at Lake Kawaguchi, which Fuji overlooks, to find the famous landmark hidden behind clouds.

It was the rainy season, and my guide warned, "At this time of year it would be most unusual to see Fuji-san."

The mountain is usually spoken of using the respectful honorific "san", an indication of its significance in Japanese culture.

Stunning pictures of its 3776m high volcanic cone, capped with snow and reflected in one of the five surrounding lakes, or set off by magnificent fields of flowers, are everywhere.

Tourists flock from all over Japan, and around the globe, to see what is arguably the most recognisable volcano in the world.

To go there without seeing Fuji would have been disappointing but, as the next best thing, I decided to visit Kawaguchi Sengen Shrine, built in 865 in honour of Konohana Sakuya, whose name means Goddess of the Flowering Trees.

It is a beautiful shrine, backed by thickly forested hills and entered through a large gate and an avenue of seven huge cedar trees.

In the grounds I came across a slim, 1.5m long green-and-white snake, lying so still I at first thought it was dead, until its tongue flickered. Was this a sign?

In accordance with custom I purified my hands with water pouring from the mouth of a sinuous dragon, climbed the steps to the shrine, tossed in a lucky ¥5 (7c) coin, pulled a heavy rope to ring the bell and made a request of the goddess.

Konohana Sakuya is a powerful deity. Until the modern era women were banned from walking the mountain's slopes for fear the goddess would errupt in a jealous rage. The locals still hold a spectacular fire festival on August 26 and 27 each year in the hope of keeping her happy.

But would she answer my request?

"What now?" asked my guide from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. "We have some time to spare."

"Let's go back to the lakefront and see if Fuji comes out from behind the clouds," I said.

Both she and a tourist official from Fujikawaguchiko Town Council looked sceptical.

"I have asked the goddess if the mountain would appear for me," I explained.

They looked even more sceptical.

As we drove back to a noted viewing point on the shores of Lake Kawaguchiko, I suddenly saw the famous shape appearing through the clouds - and shouted excitedly.

The two escorts looked amazed and then spontaneously clapped.

By the time we got to the lake the top half of the mountain, still with a smattering of snow, was clearly visible above the clouds.

It stayed that way just long enough for a couple of photos and then the clouds rolled back.

As we sat there an eagle dived into the lake and emerged with a fish in its talons. Two crows chased it, trying to steal the prey. But the eagle was too powerful for them and got away with its meal. Was this another message? Who knows.

What is clear is that even in the rainy season when Fuji mostly hides its face the Kawaguchiko area is extraordinarily beautiful.

As well as reflecting the fire deity's image, the region's lakes are good for windsurfing, kayaking, cruising and fishing.

The mountain's slopes carry an ancient forest, known as Aokigahara Juki or the Sea of Trees, filled with wildlife and covered with a network of walking tracks.

It's a beautiful place to hike, not least because the tracks, which mostly run over old lava fields, are covered with a springy layer of woodchips.

In July and August the mild weather even makes it possible to ascend the mountain in a single (long) day. This can be a crowded affair as thousands of Japanese, and a few foreign tourists, head for the top along paths lined with food stalls, oxygen stations and sleeping huts.

The slopes also hold several interesting volcanic caves. A 360m volcanic tube called the Saiko Bat Cave was home to four species of bat.

But the greatest boon Fuji offers is the warm mineral water it provides for the onsen bathhouses that the Japanese love so much.

I was lucky enough to stay at one of the most famous of these, Onsenji Yumedono Ryokan, where guests stay in individual units modelled on a 200-year-old Japanese castle. Each unit has its own private outdoor pool.

After a hard day's hiking or sightseeing it's bliss to wash yourself with black charcoal soap, rinse clean under a shower and then sink into the pool's hot water, rich with beneficial minerals, and great for tired muscles.

This is not a cheap place to stay. But the meals, served in your room, are the epitome of traditional Japanese food. My dinner had 11 courses and was simply delicious.

After an after-dinner stroll round the town it was back to the onsen for another soak and I had the best sleep of my stay in Japan on the futon on the floor of my unit.

Konohana Sakuya had done me proud.

Checklist

Getting there
The simplest way to get to Fujikawaguchiko is by bus from Tokyo Station at a cost of ¥1700 ($23.80).

Accommodation
Onsenji Yumedono Ryokan is on the web (see link below). It costs ¥35,000 per person including meals.

Things to do do
The Fuji region is Japan's top tourist area so there are lots of attractions apart from the mountain and its lakes.

* The country's foremost kimono maker, the late Itchiku Kubota, lived in Tokyo but was inspired by Fuji and built a museum to house his work within sight of the mountain. These kimonos are works of art rather than mere clothes. He used unique dyeing and sewing techniques to paint vivid pictures in cloth.

* The extraordinary Music Forest is a replica Swiss chateau built to house Sadao Ukai's collection of mechanical toys and music boxes. The highlight is surely what is billed as the world's largest dance organ, a whole wall of mechanical musicians, which churns out toe-tapping music at the flick of a switch.

* Fujikyu Highland, a giant amusement park, has a spectacular roller coaster which hits 172 km/h in 1.8 seconds from the launch down a 70m drop.

Local food
The speciality is Hoto, a tasty stew of thick noodles with all sorts of vegetables and mushrooms, seasoned with miso, served in a big iron pot. At Fudo Restaurant it costs ¥1000 for a giant serving.

Fujikawaguchiko is famous for its blueberries which are on display at the Kawaguchiko Natural Living Centre, on the shores of Lake Kawaguchiko, where you can make your own pot of blueberry jam to take home.

* Jim Eagles travelled as guest of Japan's Ministry of Foreign Affairs.