Alentejo is just an hour's drive south of Lisbon but provides a calmer, more rural getaway. Photo / 123rf
Alentejo is just an hour's drive south of Lisbon but provides a calmer, more rural getaway. Photo / 123rf
Never heard of Alentejo? Even those who have tend to keep it to themselves. Easily Portugal’s best-kept secret, once you discover this place, you’ll never want to leave, writes Steve Jermanok.
An hour’s drive south of Lisbon, the traffic lessens as you enter the Alentejo region of Portugal. Rolling hills are blanketed with vineyards, olive groves, centuries-old cork forests, and country estates housing cattle, sheep, and horses. Quiet roads lead to charming towns and cobblestone streets, where every now and then you spot a wall, castle, or fortress dating as far back as Roman and Moorish times. Portugal’s largest region, reaching the Atlantic Ocean to the west, the Algarve to the south, and the Spanish border to the east, Alentejo contains a mere 5 per cent of the country’s population. The result is a quiet escape away from the hustle and bustle of the big city to a land known for its top-notch wines, meats, and cheeses. After spending a week biking in Alentejo this past September, these are the highlights that should not be missed:
Quiet roads lead to charming towns and cobblestone streets in Alentejo, Portugal. Photo / Unsplash
Evora
All it takes is one glance of the remarkably preserved Roman Temple of Diana, dating from the first century AD, backed by the conical spire of the largest medieval church in Portugal to understand why Unesco classified Evora as a World Heritage City. Evora will be the European Capital of Culture in 2027, so it would be wise to get here before the crowds to walk the narrow streets and peer at the whitewashed houses decorated with Dutch tiles and wrought-iron balconies.
The town of Evora in Alentejo is set to become the European Capital of Culture come 2027. Photo / 123rf
The small city is so majestic that it was chosen by the kings of Portugal to serve as their residence starting in the 15th century. Be sure to make your way down from the main square to the Royal Church of St. Francis, home to the ghastly Chapel of the Bones. Catholic Monks, in the late 16th century, worried about the rising popularity of the Lutheran faith, dug up corpses from surrounding cemeteries and created a church nave decorated with thousands of skulls and bones as a reminder of our mortality to all who enter.
Dona Maria Vineyards
Northeast of Evora in Estremoz, a town gaining traction as a foodie destination due to its Michelin-starred restaurants like Mercearia Gadanha, you’ll find Quinta Dona Maria. In 1718, King Joao V built this estate for his lover, Dona Maria. When she died, the current owner’s ancestors purchased the land and surrounding gardens where they have been making wine ever since. By all means taste the wine, which is terrific, especially the full-bodied red Dona Maria Grand Reserve. But also tour the grounds that include a building storing large amphora vases from the mid-1700s when wine production first started, including one from the 1200s discovered underground. If you’re fortunate, you’ll be there during the harvest in late August/early September where workers still stomp the grapes by foot.
The Dona Maria Vineyards are located in Estremoz, northeast of Evora, and have a rich history that dates back to 1718. Photo / Supplied
Royal Horse Stud Farm
Every good monarchy needs strong horses. So it comes as no surprise that King Joao V, the same king from above who had not one, but at least two lovers out of wedlock including a nun with whom he had two children, founded the Royal Horse Stud Farm in Alter do Chão in 1748. Today, it is the oldest continuously operating stud farm in the world and currently holds 400 grand Lusitano horses. Tour the Royal Stables to see this elegant breed of horse and then, as a bonus, see the hawks, owls, falcons, and yelping dogs that still engage in this centuries-old sport of falconry. If you want to spend the night, a new property recently opened on the premises that offers an outdoor swimming pool, a spa with heated indoor pool, and a restaurant serving traditional Alentejo cuisine.
The Royal Horse Stud Farm in Alter do Chão, founded in 1748, holds the title of the world's oldest continually operating stud farm. Photo / 123rf
Cortiçarte
Almost everywhere you look in Alentejo, you’ll find the thick gnarly bark of centuries-old cork trees. Indeed, Portugal produces close to 50 per cent of all cork products in the world with its main competitor being France. If you look closely at the trees, much of the bark has been harvested by hand, leaving a bare trunk with a number on it. Every nine years, the bark regenerates, so the number tells the cork producer the next time to harvest. To see the unique process of manufacturing the cork, visit Cortiçarte in Azaruja where you’ll find bark stacked high, then lowered into a boiling pit to soften, before being made into all types of products like handbags, placemats, and most importantly, cork for wine bottles. The vineyards are, after all, the number one buyer of cork.
Nearly half of the globe's cork is produced right in Alentejo. Photo / Supplied
The hidden coastline
Portuguese football superstar, Ronaldo, billionaire Richard Branson, and the singer, Madonna, are just a few of the glitterati found on the beaches of Comporta, Alentejo’s best-known beach resort. Yet, keep heading south and you’ll find some of the most exquisite coastline in Europe, where cliffs fall to sheltered coves and very private strips of beach. Approximately 30km south of Comporta in the relatively untouched town of Melides, the 13-room boutique hotel, Vermelho, was recently unveiled by French shoe designer, Christian Louboutin. Expect more hoteliers to follow in his footsteps now that this region is starting to be discovered.
Portuguese football ace Ronaldo and other celebs frequent Alentejo's best-known beach resort, Comporta. Photo / Getty Images
