There’s no bad time to visit Tasmania but if you want to fall in love with an island at record speed, summer is the season to set your sights on ‘The Holiday Isle’, writes Elisabeth Easther
Because I am an ardent fan of wombats, echidnas and platypuses, I had long dreamed of visiting lutrawita/Tasmania, so when Air New Zealand offered direct flights from Auckland to Hobart, I wasted no time in booking.
Although Tasmania isn’t just about wildlife, it’s also heaven for tree huggers and hikers, for lovers of architecture and art. The local food scene bursts with flavour and freshness, the landscapes are spectacular and the locals are pretty friendly too, except for the leeches, but that’s another story.
Landing in Nipaluna/Hobart in mid-November, on day one I strode out from luxurious Islington Lodge to explore the state capital. Immediately my head was turned by exquisite gardens, impressive parks and stately homes that characterise the heart of Hobart, with Battery Point one of Australia’s best-preserved colonial suburbs. A wander around Salamanca Arts Precinct is also a must, with its galleries, bars and bookshops, while on Saturdays the vast Salamanca Market serves up a cornucopia of food, clothing, arts and crafts.
To get to grips with the outer reaches of this picturesque city, I boarded an Explorer Bus and made an ascent of Kunanyi/Mt Wellington. At 1271m, this mighty mountain presides over the city while also protecting it from the chill winds of Antarctica, and mountain biking down it was a buzz. Yet in spite of all the stunning sights, my Hobart highlight was found on the Rivulet Walk, because it was on that riverside that I came across a peckish platypus fishing among the shallow rocks. Seriously wow.
Braving the ascent to the top of Kunanyi/Mt Wellington. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
Tasmania’s history
You cannot ignore history when you visit Tasmania, from the brutality of the colonial invasion that paved the way for the annihilation of the Aboriginal people who’d lived there for over 30,000 years, to the subsequent horrors of the penal colony. These inescapable truths meant that while marvelling at Tasmania’s beauty, one must also consider the blood and the tears that have been shed.
MONA - Museum of Old And New Art
Board the MONA ferry in downtown Hobart, then disembark 30 minutes later at a subterranean gallery that houses an astonishing collection of treasures. The brainchild of David Walsh who made his fortune from gambling, the quirky high roller ploughed his vast fortune into an underground wonderland that he describes as a subversive adult Disneyland, but it is so much more. Housing everything from Picassos to plaster casts of women’s private parts, you could spend weeks wandering the many floors of marvels. From the 600BC sarcophagus to a giant melted leather tank. Handwritten letters by Charles Dickens and Victor Hugo, David Bowie’s original Starman lyrics and Sydney Nolan’s mammoth snake, MONA is an absolute must.
Installation image from Namedropping: Tank Project, 2011–13, He Xiangyu, Private collection, Singapore. Photo / Mona/Jesse Hunniford. Image Courtesy the Museum of Old and New Art, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Eight days in a Star RV Campervan
Eager to explore further afield, a six-berth Polaris camper from Star RV was just the ticket and I spent eight days exploring the north and east of Tasmania, although to do it all justice, you’d need at least three months. Setting out from Hobart, because I’d loved the documentary The Giants about heroic Green MP Bob Brown, a pilgrimage to his home in Oura Oura was essential. Camping at the bushy base of Liffey Falls, I stopped at Bob’s simple home, and was blown away to be shown around by the caretaker. Adjusting to the novelty of Australian birdsong while keeping my eyes peeled for snakes, the walk to Liffey Falls also filled my cup.
Next stop, the pretty seaside city of Launceston to walk through magnificent Cataract Gorge, home to the world’s longest single-span chairlift. Then to Freycinet National Park and spectacular Wineglass Bay. Three nights of coastal camping, the walks at Freycinet are outstanding with wallabies and echidnas everywhere. Kayaking is also charming with dolphins and stingrays as guides. Then it was down to Triabunna for a day trip to Maria Island, a hotspot of history and wildlife, where visitors virtually stumble over wombats, kangaroos and wallabies. Rare Tasmania devils also call Maria home and the walking trails are wonderful.
A visit to Bob Brown's cottage in Oura Oura, as seen in the documentary The Giants. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
Port Arthur
Spread over 146 hectares, Port Arthur is the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia and the A$48 (NZ$53) entry fee allows visitors two days of access to the Unesco World Heritage site, because there is a lot to explore. From stark cell blocks to palatial homes where gaolers lived with their families, it’s heartbreaking to imagine the poor souls transported from Britain to spend their lives enslaved behind bars with some prisoners as young as 9. Port Arthur is a stark reminder of mankind’s capacity for cruelty.
Port Arthur, a penal colony now turned as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
Bruny Island Long Weekend with the Tasmanian Walking Company
A three-day odyssey of coastal walking and off-grid glamping, the Bruny Island Long Weekend was five stars all the way. Whisked by boat from downtown Hobart to Bruny, a pod of dolphins escorted us to a 35,000ha haven. Once there we walked on beaches, in bush and through forest with our guides Soni and Michelle who shared their broad knowledge of geology and botany, birdlife and ecology. They also spoke of Bruny’s cultural importance and acknowledged the Nuenonne people who came before us. Not just fonts of information, our guides were also master chefs, serving up phenomenal meals from the camp kitchen seemingly effortlessly. From roast lamb to wallaby, fresh fruit and vegetables and decadent desserts. One day they even served oysters direct from the ocean. At night we slept like logs in proper beds with crisp white sheets, our safari tents connected by curving paths of crushed white shells, a serpentine trail that glowed in the dark. And the piece de resistance? A private outdoor shower with views of an enchanted forest of towering eucalypts. Paradise found.
A stunning walk along the beaches of Bruny Island. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
Hotels old and new
To bookend the delights of the campervan and Bruny Island, there were two delightful hotels
Islington Hotel
Built in 1872, this opulent hotel takes elegance to new heights. Located on Davey St in Hobart’s dress circle, the views across exquisite gardens to Kunanyi/Mt Wellington were transcendent. The library, recreation room and morning room were filled with art and antiques, while breakfast was taken on a patio beside a mirror-calm pond, a miniature hedge maze and herbarium. The food was also exceptional, from baked goods to cooked dishes and at night a pot of sleepy tea with sweet treats was delivered to my room. As for the giant bath and bed, the home-baked biscuits and meringues available 24/7, Islington Hotel lives up to the hype.
The Islington Hotel is 10/10 stay with the best garden views and grand bed and baths. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
DoubleTree by Hilton
My final two nights were spent at the brand-spanking new DoubleTree by Hilton on Macquarie St, a short walk to the bustling waterfront. On arrival, biscuits were produced from a magic heated drawer and the hotel’s extravagant buffet breakfast was the perfect way to start the day. Most rooms offer grand views, while having the pool to myself at 6am on Sunday morning was the icing on my Tasmanian cake.
Top tips for preparing for your trip to Tasmania
Read: Truganini: Journey through the Apocalypse by Cassandra Prybus. A glimpse into the life of Bruny Islander Truganini, who was sometimes called ‘the last Tasmanian’.
