Take a deeper look at Helsinki’s exciting food, art and culture scene, from Michelin-starred restaurants to world-class museums. Photo / 123rf
Take a deeper look at Helsinki’s exciting food, art and culture scene, from Michelin-starred restaurants to world-class museums. Photo / 123rf
The Finnish capital of Helsinki offers so much more than a whistle-stop tour, writes Michelle Tchea
Capital cities are not always the most exciting places to visit and port cities can be very touristy. Helsinki is both of these and to the unassuming traveller who jumps off one of the large cruise ships docked on the harbour of the Finnish capital, it can be just another European city with beautiful views of the Baltic sea offering nice walks on cobblestone-lined streets.
But there is so much more to Helsinki than a quick, albeit touristy tour of the city looking at souvenirs in the market square, taking photos in front of the iconic Helsinki Cathedral in Sensate Square and shopping along the Esplanade Park where luxury retail giants like Louis Vuitton sit.
Often overlooked when compared to other big Nordic cities like Reykjavik, Copenhagen and the ever-so-cool and sustainable Gothenburg in Sweden, Helsinki offers foodies, art lovers, culture-seekers and even adrenaline-junkies a lot to do. There’s more than a dozen art museums all within walking distance of each other with a rotating list of exhibitions that cater to both contemporary and historical art lovers; a booming food scene with a brigade of young chefs ready to promote Finnish cuisine and food culture to rival its Nordic neighbours; and easy day tours that take city-dwellers out to nearby lakes, forests and ski resorts for travellers who want to do more than just explore Helsinki. Whether it is your first time or fifth time to the Finnish capital, it has something for every traveller with young creatives pushing boundaries to make the most enjoyable stay in Helsinki for curious travellers.
A view of the Esplanade Park with locals and visitors in Helsinki, Finland. Photo / 123rf
Finnish food culture
In the last few years, a vanguard of chefs have returned home from stints working in the best restaurants in Paris, Tokyo and Barcelona, setting a whole new level of dining in the Finnish capital. At the forefront is sustainability. Restaurant Nolla and Restaurant Natura are both located in the Punavuori district and work on the philosophy of working closely with Finnish food producers - sourcing locally and trying to reduce food waste without compromising on taste. Restaurant Gron is also a firm favourite but a bit more upmarket.
If you want to explore Finnish cuisine without visiting a touristy Viking restaurant, Finnjavel Sali is where you should be. Helmed by celebrity chef and restaurateur Henri Alen, the bistro offers traditional Finnish cuisine like the Kaerlian pie, scratch-made rye bread and house-cured salmon but with a modern twist.
If you are looking for something more elegant, the Michelin restaurant Finnjavel in the same cultural art building, Kunsthalle Helsinki, is worth checking out for a classy dinner. For a more interactive dinner, The Room by Kozeen is spectacular if you can snag a spot in this very popular 14-seat eatery.
For more casual finds around the city, the Hakaniemi Market Hall, which opened in 1914, was recently renovated and is still a great place to buy Finnish delicacies like local cheese, smoked fish and baked goods. Other great restaurants in the city include Restaurant Skord and Plein. The latter is located in the suburbs but it’s fun, hip and delicious with an excellent organic and natural wine list to boot.
Finnish cuisine is sustainability-focused. Photo / 123rf
Arts and culture
There are more than a dozen art galleries and museums to visit in Helsinki and with the city easily explored by foot, culture lovers will appreciate the accessible and dynamic art scene here, which rivals some of the best in Europe.
The Amos Rex Museums combines striking architecture from “old” and “new” Helsinki and is seen as a cultural institution where locals spend their afternoons exploring contemporary art collections and seasonal pop-ups by local and international artists. Kids under the age of 18 enter the museum for free and the museum now hosts an exhibition by Palestinian-Danish artist Larissa Sansour.
For a look into Finland’s history, The Ateneum is home to more than 20,000 national treasures and shouldn’t be missed, with artwork dating from the 19th century to the 21st century. Recent exhibitions include works of art by Tove Jansson, Pablo Piccaso and the latest exhibition will entertain museum-goers with a Gothic Modern exhibition showing European medieval and Northern Renaissance art.
Other museums include HAM, Sinebrychoff Art Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma.
The Amos Rex Museum is a modern cultural hub in Helsinki. Photo / 123rf
Architecture
If you love architecture, Helsinki is a wondrous place for a self-guided tour that celebrates both new and old Finnish design. Most tourists and travellers will find themselves at the Helsinki Central railway station and rather than getting frustrated with the other 200,000 commuters who pass through it daily, my advice is to admire the art nouveau building that was designed by Eliel Saarinen and opened in 1919.
From the train station, visit the National Library designed by architect CL Engel in 1836 and compare it to the very modern Helsinki Central Library Oodi, which opened in 2018 and shows off Finnish modern architectural innovation and civic design, which is completely free to the public.
Other great places to visit include the Finnish National Theatre, which was established in 1872 and a marker of the National Romanticism style, as well as Hotel Maria, a new luxury hotel that opened in the residential area of Kruununhaka. A combination of four residential buildings has been transformed into an elegant hotel but you will still see exquisite details of 20th-century Helsinki with an old elevator and fireplaces in the public areas, which complement modern works of art by local designers. Take a spot of afternoon tea in the Garden Terrace and enjoy expertly made pastries and cakes - The Skagen Toast is delicious.
Helsinki Central Library Oodi, opened in 2018, is a stunning example of Finland’s modern civic architecture. Photo / 123rf
Sweat it out
Finnish sauna is world-renowned and the Finns really do enjoy a sauna session both in the summer and winter. With more than three million saunas in the country and just a population of six million, you know the Finns take their sauna very seriously. Helsinki has more than a handful of saunas and Löyly is one of the most well-known public saunas in Finland, which is located in a former industrial area on the Helsinki waterfront. Locals jump into the wood-fired saunas year-round and also enjoy the outdoor swimming pool when the sun is out.
For a different view of the city, a short ferry ride will take you to the cute island of Lonna and two modern seaside saunas with stunning views of the Baltic Sea, but if you want something more elegant and luxurious in the heart of the city, try The Maria Spa where well-heeled locals spend their weekends being pampered by experienced masseuse followed by a relaxing nap in the sunroof atrium with champagne flute in hand. It is one of the fanciest saunas in the city so be sure to book ahead.
Helsinki’s Löyly sauna is a wood-fired experience located right on the city’s waterfront. Photo / 123rf
Day trips
Exploring other parts of Finland is easy from Helsinki - allowing travellers to see more of Finland without spending too much time on the road, train or bus.
One hour from Helsinki is Lahti, which can be reached by train directly from the airport. Located in the Lakeland region of Finland, Lahti is home to some of the country’s most revered ski trails, where world ski championships are held.
If you are not a skier but just want to enjoy a wellness weekend on one of Europe’s largest (and cleanest) lakes, visit family-run Lehmonkarki Resort, owned by husband and wife duo Ari and Marjo Yrjölä. Check into a cabin on the family’s 120ish-hectare resort (or in one of the newly opened Mirror Houses), play disc-golf, volleyball and enjoy swimming on Lake Paijanne before enjoying chef Marjo’s well-thought-out and plentiful Finnish dinner.
For other activities in the region of Lahti, visit Salpausselka Unesco Geopark and cycle along the famous ridge. For lovers of fine wine, pop into Ainoa Winery on your way back to the city and sample fruit wines made by husband and wife, David and Paola.
Just an hour from Helsinki, Lahti offers skiing and access to one of Europe’s largest clean lakes, Lake Päijänne. Photo / 123rf
Checklist
HELSINKI, FINLAND
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Helsinki Airport with one stopover with Qatar Airways and Finnair.
