Take the Gornergrat cogwheel train from Zermatt to the restaurant and observation platform for an even closer-up view of the Matterhorn. Photo / Getty Images
Take the Gornergrat cogwheel train from Zermatt to the restaurant and observation platform for an even closer-up view of the Matterhorn. Photo / Getty Images
Switzerland by train will open your eyes to a land of chocolate-box scenery, lofty peaks, beautiful mountain chalets, and grass so neat and green it looks like it’s been hand-painted, writes David Killick
Take the train
With more than 4000km of track, train is the best way to explore. The Swiss railway is an engineering marvel: climbing and winding through the Alps, crossing viaducts and plunging into tunnels, the railway connects major cities and tiny villages – and it does it like clockwork, in comfort and on time. No two destinations are more than a day’s journey apart.
With more than 4000km of track, train is the best way to explore Switzerland. Photo / Getty Images
Pay as you go, buy a Eurail Pass or one of its variants, or a Swiss Rail pass. You need to buy the pass before you arrive in Europe. Be aware that many smaller Swiss railway lines are private and not covered by Eurail – although you may get a discount and other benefits.
Nestled between gigantic rock faces and mountain peaks, Lauterbrunnen boasts one of the highest free-falling waterfalls in Europe, the Staubbach Falls. Photo / Supplied
Special scenic trains
There are several iconic routes, of which the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express are perhaps the most famous. Most will cost extra and you must book ahead. However, the good news is that even ordinary trains travel through amazing scenery, so you will not miss out.
Getting there
You can either fly into Zurich (the financial hub, not the capital – that would be Bern), or arrive from France in the west, Germany in the north, Austria in the east, or Italy in the south.
The Jungfraujoch railway, finished in 1912, takes you to Europe's loftiest station at 3454 metres Photo / Supplied
Planning your route
Travel from the Swiss-German-speaking north to the Italian-speaking south with diversions at either end. From Zurich, head west to Lucerne and then head on to Interlaken and the Bernese Oberland. Or travel south towards the lakes and then west to Zermatt. Choose your main stops and then plot your journey online.
Mt Rigi
Mt Rigi is reached via a paddle-steamer trip across Lake Lucerne, followed by rack railway (known in German as “Zahnradbahn”, literally tooth wheel or cogwheel). This form of narrow-gauge track gives extra grip on steep slopes. The Vitznau to Rigi route was Europe’s first mountain railway when it opened in 1871.
Zermatt, beneath the famous Matterhorn peak, is a unique village where cars are completely absent. Photo / Supplied
Mt Pilatus
Also reached from Lucerne, the steepest rack railway will provide a different perspective. Choose one or both trips and you can’t go wrong.
Interlaken is the main town in this central region, but you can also choose to stay in a village, such as Grindelwald or Wengen. All are easily reached by train. There are many walks in this region – or visit the easily accessible capital, Bern, for a day.
Jungfraujoch
Take the train to Jungfraujoch, where you can get up close with the peaks of the Jungfrau (virgin), Eiger (ogre), and Monch (monk). Completed in 1912, the railway is an incredible engineering achievement and takes you to Europe’s highest railway station, at 3454m. Apart from the views, you can also enjoy an ice palace, restaurant and shops. It’s expensive but worth it. Be aware that at 3089m above sea level, the air is thin and can make you a little breathless. Wear hiking shoes due to the snow and ice.
Interlaken, in the heart of Switzerland, offers visitors easy access to picturesque villages like Grindelwald and Wengen. Photo / Supplied
Zermatt
Nestled beneath the iconic peak of the Matterhorn, the village of Zermatt is totally car-free. Part of the line is on a private railway, so depending on your pass, you may have to pay extra. Zermatt is also one end of the famous Glacier Express.
The Matterhorn
Take the Gornergrat cogwheel train from Zermatt to the restaurant and observation platform for an even closer-up view of the Matterhorn. Like the Jungfrau, the air 3089m above sea level is rarefied and the same cautions apply.
Glacier Express
Travelling between Zermatt and the upmarket ski resort of St Moritz, carriages feature panoramic windows to watch the stunning mountain scenery rolling by – which you can do in total luxury while enjoying gourmet dining.
Want a closer peek at the Matterhorn? Hop on the Gornergrat cogwheel train from Zermatt. Photo / Supplied
Bernina Express
This express takes you from Chur, in the centre, to Tirano in Italy, on what’s described as “Europe’s highest railway tracks and the steepest in the world”. Whether you choose this route, or a regular train, I definitely recommend heading to the Italian south for a completely different flavour.
Locarno
Locarno, by the shores of its eponymous lake, is reached easily by train from Lucerne in a few hours. Apart from the Italian language, you’ll find it’s warmer here, too, with palm trees flourishing by the lake shore. A mix of cable car (Seilbahn) and chairlift will take you past a monastery to give you a panoramic view of the peaks high above the lake.
Other highlights
For French flavour, sample Geneva or Lausanne, in the west. Or head east to some of the less-touristed parts. Wherever you go in this compact country, nowhere is too far, and spectacular scenery and good memories are assured.
Checklist: Switzerland
GETTING THERE
Emirates and Qatar Airways both fly from Auckland to Zurich with one stopover in Dubai or Doha, Qatar respectively.
