Situated just off the coast of West Bali National Park, Menjangan Island is uninhabited and surrounded by crystal-clear waters and vibrant coral reefs. Photo / Getty Images
Situated just off the coast of West Bali National Park, Menjangan Island is uninhabited and surrounded by crystal-clear waters and vibrant coral reefs. Photo / Getty Images
Bali’s northwest corner is another world. With few tourists and pristine coral for snorkelling, you may want to overhaul your original, crowd-heavy itinerary, writes Bonnie Culbertson
All along Bali’s southern shores, tourists congregate in the increasingly congested hubs of Canggu, Nusa Dua and Uluwatu. While these places are perfect for spending holidays cocooned in all-inclusive comforts, they don’t exactly put you into close contact with Bali’s true nature. For those more intrepid travellers willing to trade the familiar for the extraordinary, there is no better place to visit than Bali’s remote northwest corner. Home to natural hot springs, pristine corals and the island’s only national park, northwest Bali is one of the few remaining hidden gems on the Island of the Gods and the ideal destination for nature enthusiasts.
Getting there is half the fun
The drive to northwest Bali from I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport is about four hours, with several highlights worth stopping for in the mountainous regions between. The temperate blooms of Bedugul’s Botanical Gardens feel worlds apart from Bali’s tropical coastlines. And in Munduk, be sure to take in the views over the Twin Lakes, Buyan and Tamblingan, from a perch so high it’s not uncommon to find yourself standing in a soup of gathered clouds. Nearby, the remote glamping resort, Desa Eko, makes for a great overnight stay in the hills, offering sustainable hospitality, delicious organic meals and trail access to four different nearby waterfalls. Once fully rested, a leisurely descent to the coast awaits you, with endless sweeping views over electric green valleys peppered with quaint, red-roofed villages and Hindu temples.
Banyumala waterfall in Munduk, Bali. Photo / Getty Images
Biorock Pemuteran
Once you arrive at the dark, volcanic beaches of Pemuteran you’ll be ready to wade into its inviting waters. Just offshore, you’ll discover Indonesia’s largest coral reef restoration effort, known as the Biorock Project. Started in 2000, the Biorock Project uses an “Electrical Mineral Accretion” process made self-sustainable thanks to a photovoltaic generator, which helps to significantly accelerate coral growth. Today, the project counts more than 115 artificial structures along the region’s coastline, each now fully colonised by fish and corals and easily accessible for even first-time snorkellers. A few of the Biorock structures sit within steps of Taman Sari Resort, and the hotel’s Poleng Beachfront Restaurant is the perfect spot for an apres-snorkel snack or refreshment.
An aerial view over the north Bali coastline in Pemuteran. Photo / Getty Images
The Biosphere Foundation
If you’ve heard of the famous Biosphere 2 project of the 1990s or watched its subsequent documentary, Spaceship Earth, you’ll want to check out The Biosphere Foundation, founded by Abigail Alling and Mark “Laser” Van Thillo, who spent two years sealed inside Biosphere 2 as part of the project’s original research team. Today, they are on a mission to inspire a new generation of “Biospherians” through research, education and community engagement. Check the foundation’s schedule for educational programmes or workshops taking place during your visit. This might include a hands-on permaculture gardening class, a trip to support marine conservation efforts in nearby coral reefs or mangrove forests, or participating in a local beach clean-up. The foundation also organises eco-talks with conservation and sustainability experts, as well as film screenings. These events provide opportunities for visitors to engage with like-minded individuals while gaining a deeper appreciation of the environmental challenges facing northwest Bali and similar ecosystems.
Volcano views from east to west
One of the more enchanting aspects of this region is its awe-inspiring volcano views. To the east, you’ll take in the numerous peaks snaking along Bali’s northern spine, while to the west you’ll be able to see Java’s mighty mountains. Northwest Bali is the only place offering visitors views of Java’s Mt Baluran, Mt Ijen and Mt Raung. One of the best spots to experience these views is at Sumberkima Hill Retreat, a collection of beautiful and secluded villas perched high above the sea. The retreat includes two restaurants serving healthy and locally sourced food, and each villa boasts unbeatable sunrise or sunset views, depending on where it sits. The dazzling backdrop has made Sumberkima Hill a popular spot in the region among social media’s influencer set.
Sumberkima Hill Retreat boasts a collection of beautiful and secluded villas perched high above the sea. Photo / Sumberkima Hill Retreat
Day trip to Menjangan Island
Situated just off the coast of West Bali National Park, Menjangan Island is uninhabited and surrounded by crystal-clear waters and vibrant coral reefs. Local conservation efforts have made Menjangan an ideal home for a diverse range of marine life, and underwater explorers will almost always encounter tropical fish, sea turtles and reef sharks here. Note snorkellers are required to pay an entrance fee of about NZ$65 per person, while divers are charged closer to $135. Besides snorkelling and diving, visitors can take a lunch break on the beach or hike to visit the island’s various temples, including the famous Pura Ganesha. The temple features a large statue of Ganesha overlooking the sea, a guardian of the waters and believed by the Balinese Hindu peoples to protect marine wildlife. I recommend hiring a boat to the island from Menjangan Dynasty Glamping Resort. Whether you’re a guest of the hotel or a day visitor, the staff are friendly and the resort restaurant and pool are both great places to recuperate from the day’s activities.
Visitors to Menjangan Island in Bali can hike to visit the island’s various temples. Photo / Getty Images
Hiking West Bali National Park
For those seeking a dryer encounter with Bali’s flora and fauna, West Bali National Park is another excellent option. For an entrance fee of about $25, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the park’s diverse and protected ecosystems, including mangrove forests, savannahs, and dense jungles. Lucky hikers may even spot the endangered Bali starling - known for its striking white plumage - or the elusive Javan rusa deer. Other park inhabitants include macaques, wild boars and a variety of tropical bird species. It’s recommended to hire an informed local guide, both for safety reasons and for the chance to learn more about the park’s wildlife. On a clear day, don’t miss Prapat Agung beach for jaw-dropping views of Java’s aforementioned volcanoes.
Banyuwedang Natural Hot Spring in Buleleng
A soak in Banyuwedang’s natural hot springs is the perfect way to relax after a long day of exploring. The abundance of nearby volcanoes means plenty of geothermal energy warming these healing and mineral-rich waters. While tourists can access the public hot springs for a small fee, the most luxurious way to experience the spring has to be at Mimpi Resort in Menjangan, where guests can book a room with its own, ensuite hot spring tub. A stay at Mimpi has the added benefit of combining a hot spring soak with the hotel’s spa services, such as a traditional Balinese massage or reflexology treatment for tired legs.
As the sun sets each day over this enchanting landscape, you’ll find yourself wondering how it’s possible that so few people take the time to visit. The region reveals itself to those lucky few who do as a sanctuary for travellers seeking a more tranquil and authentic Bali escape. Whether exploring the rainbow reefs and underwater wildlife, experiencing the rich biodiversity along its many hiking trails, or actively participating in conservation efforts with the Biosphere Foundation, every moment in this hidden paradise is an invitation to connect with nature and local culture. Northwest Bali beckons visitors to step off the beaten path and immerse themselves in a world where serenity and authenticity converge, leaving indelible memories, a longing to return and, hopefully, a continued best-kept secret.
