Having visited Armenia in summer last year, Ash Jurberg believes this up-and-coming destination is perfect for those looking to avoid mass tourism in other European countries
I couldn’t help but smile as I sat in Republic Square, sipping thick morning coffee and watching the city of Yerevan wake up. The majestic colonnaded buildings and dancing fountains would be tourist magnets in Paris or Rome, crowded with selfie sticks and buses full of groups. But here in Armenia’s capital, the relaxed local feel made the experience far more authentic.
Just a short flight from major European hubs and Dubai, Armenia’s capital surprised me at every turn. The compact nation is a fusion of old and new, East and West. One moment, I was wandering through Soviet-era architecture and the next, discovering cutting-edge cafes where young Armenians typed on laptops while sipping crafted specialty coffee. My guide, Aro, expertly led me through neglected apartment blocks that suddenly opened into hidden art galleries or atmospheric cocktail bars. It felt like being let in on a series of well-kept secrets – apt because Armenia is perhaps Europe’s biggest secret.
With over 280 days of sunshine and parks covering 12% of the city, Yerevan has mastered the art of outdoor living and has plenty of spaces to explore. A great use of space is the Cascade Complex, a giant limestone stairway that doubles as a modern art gallery. The lush gardens contain sculptures by world-famous artists, while several levels of galleries are within the complex. Stretching over five levels with 572 steps, the Cascade offers panoramic views of the city and the mountains beyond. I was relieved when Aro told me a series of hidden escalators inside offered a much-easier ascent.
Cascade Complex, Armenia. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Ancient stones and sacred sites
Armenia has a rich history, with monuments, museums and temples revealing tales of a country that adopted Christianity in AD301, becoming the first Christian nation in the world. Many monasteries seem to be placed in the most dramatic settings imaginable. My favourite discovery was the Khor Virap monastery near the Turkish border. Founded in 642, it enjoys what must be one of Christianity’s most dramatic backdrops: the snow-capped peak of Mt Ararat where Noah’s Ark is said to have come to rest. The name Khor Virap translates to “bottommost pit” and it was here that St Gregory the Illuminator, who converted Armenia to Christianity, was imprisoned. Descending the narrow staircase into the underground cell was chilling and I could spend only a minute down there; it is hard to imagine how St Gregory spent 12 years in the claustrophobic confines. I much preferred the view from the outside.
Khor Virap monastery near the Turkish border. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Another awe-inspiring site awaits at the Symphony of Stones in the Garni Gorge, 45 minutes from Yerevan. These towering, hexagonal basalt columns were created by ancient lava flows over 40 million years ago and reminded me of Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway. Walking the kilometre-long trail, I had ample time to take Instagram-worthy photos. Most of the time, there were only a few horses and a handful of other tourists, a rare treat in today’s over-touristed world. Near the gorge, I visited Garni Temple, a 1st-century pagan temple dedicated to the sun god, offering a glimpse into Armenia’s pre-Christian past.
Symphony of Stones in the Garni Gorge. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Uncorking Armenia’s wine heritage
These dramatic landscapes don’t only create spectacular views – they’re perfect for viticulture. Armenia’s wine scene was an unexpected highlight and this is literally where it all began – the world’s oldest winery, Areni-1, dates to 4100BC. While that ancient site is now an archaeological dig, modern Armenian winemaking is thriving as the rich limestone and volcanic soil, paired with the ideal climate and the art of fermenting in oak barrels and traditional karas amphora, give Armenian wines a distinct flavour found nowhere else in the world.
Visiting several family-owned estates, I discovered grape varieties I’d never heard of, from the rich Areni to the distinctive Milagh and robust Haghtanak. I may be a confessed wine novice, but the knowledgeable vintners guided me through each tasting, expertly pairing the wines with artisanal cheeses, cured meats and freshly baked lavash bread. Sitting amongst the vines, enjoying the food and wine, I wasn’t surprised when Aro told me lavash bread was granted Unesco protection due to its cultural significance to Armenian heritage.
There are a ton of family-owned wineries in Armania, offering delicious wines. Photo / Ash Jurberg
A culinary journey
The food in Armenia was a true highlight – fresh, healthy and remarkable value – most meals at high-end restaurants cost under NZ$25. My favourite meal was at Dolmama, a Yerevan restaurant whose guest list includes King Charles, Vladimir Putin and Kim Kardashian. “You must try the house specialty,” my guide, Aro, told me, his eyes gleaming with enthusiasm. Always up for a personal recommendation, I agreed, though moments later, I felt a wave of regret as the waiter presented me with a raw lamb dolma (a dish typically stuffed with rice, minced meat, offal, seafood and fruit). I hesitated before the thought crossed my mind: if it was good enough for the King, I should try it. As I took my first bite, the flavours exploded in my mouth – the tender meat paired with fragrant herbs and a touch of tanginess. It was perhaps the best dish I had during my week in Armenia and, despite the long list of VIPs who had dined in the al fresco garden, it was free from pretension (and waiting lists).
Dolma mama, an Armenian dish that King Charles once ordered. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Natural wonders without the crowds
After indulging in Yerevan’s culinary scene, I was ready to work up an appetite in Dilijan, known as the “Switzerland of Armenia”. The forested mountains and crystal-clear alpine lakes here are connected by endless trails waiting to be explored, whether on foot or by bike. The Transcaucasian Trail is a newly developed long-distance hiking route, offering well-marked day hikes ranging from easy two-hour walks to challenging full-day adventures. The treks provide spectacular scenery, passing ancient monasteries and beautifully preserved relics from centuries past.
Lake Sevan, Armenia. Photo / Ash Jurberg
After hiking, visitors can unwind in one of Dilijan’s spas. The town is becoming a wellness hub, with options like the Dilitown Resort and Spa offering sauna, salt rooms, ice baths and more. Spending a day here felt like a true retreat and I understood why this town is the most popular holiday spot for Armenians.
Have a relaxing stay at Dili Health Spa Resort. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Art, culture and hidden treasures
Refreshed from Dilijan, I explored Gyumri, Armenia’s second-largest city, where I immersed myself in a vibrant arts scene. The city’s distinctive architecture features intricate hand-carved wooden doors, each one unique. I even attended a workshop where a local craftsman demonstrated traditional techniques passed down through generations and gave me a miniature door to take home as a souvenir.
But my favourite souvenir came from Yerevan’s sprawling Vernissage Market. Walking through the bustling stalls full of traditional crafts and Soviet memorabilia, I searched for the perfect gift for my wife before hitting the jackpot. Like stepping back in time, I stumbled upon a stall dedicated to bootleg vinyl records. These historic relics were pressed in Bulgaria and smuggled throughout the Soviet Union during the Cold War era.
My prize was a colourful Beatles album, a mishmash of songs assembled from their catalogue written in phonetic English and replicated in Russian on the cover. These records now sit proudly on display at home as a conversation starter and a memory from my travels. Far better than a snow globe.
The perfect souvenir. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Visit before the secret is out
On my final night in Armenia, I returned to Republic Square to people-watch and enjoy the free nightly light-and-fountain show. Even though I had covered a lot of territory in my week here, I realised there was so much more to see in this captivating country, and I would need to return.
Armenia offers museums, parks and outdoor adventures that rival Europe’s more famous destinations. It also offers a rare opportunity for those seeking what European travel used to be – genuine, uncrowded and full of surprises. With new hotels under construction and increasing flight connections, I recommend visiting before this hidden corner of Europe inevitably joins the well-worn tourist trail.
Fountain night show at Republic Square. Photo / Ash Jurberg
Essential information
Visa: New Zealanders enjoy visa-free stays for up to 180 days
Currency: Armenian dram (NZ$1 ≈ AMD230)
Best seasons to visit: Spring (April-June) or autumn (September-October)
Getting around: Hire a driver/guide for maximum flexibility and local insights
Language: English is widely spoken in tourist areas and among younger Armenians
Safety: Armenia ranks among the safest countries in Europe for tourists. Safe Travel recommends not travelling within 5km of the border with Azerbaijan or to the Nagorno-Karabakh region due to the risk of armed conflict. safetravel.govt.nz/armenia
