The Golden Triangle – Delhi, Agra and Jaipur – is India’s most popular travel circuit and ideal for first-time travellers. Photo / 123RF
If you’ve never visited India before, the “Golden Triangle” is India’s most popular tourist circuit and perfect for first-timers, writes Poonam Binayak.
India is a country of sharp contrasts. Its cities hum with activity, where sleek high-rises share space with crowded markets and informal settlements. Step away from the urban frenzy and you will find cool hill stations where the pace of life slows and the air is fresh, or head to the coast, where the sun-drenched beaches stretch endlessly. Then there are towering mountains, scorching deserts, tranquil backwaters and abundant wildlife, from the royal tiger to freshwater dolphins. And whether it’s a snack from a roadside stall or a meal at a top-tier restaurant, the food reflects the same mix – traditional and modern, side by side. It would take more than a lifetime to see it all.
For your first trip, focus on a region or two. We’d recommend starting with the “Golden Triangle”, India’s most popular tourist circuit – but that’s for good reason. It knits together the country’s three contrasting cities, Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, all offering a snapshot of India’s layered history and cultural richness.
Delhi kicks off the journey with its energetic mash-up of ancient and modern. Start in Old Delhi, where tangled lanes buzz with life, centered around the Jama Masjid, one of India’s largest mosques, and the 17th-century Red Fort, a Mughal masterpiece of blushing sandstone. Don’t miss Chandi Chowk, a busy market where cycles or e-rickshaws squeeze past food stalls, and spice shops fill the area with their heady aroma. South of the Old Quarter, New Delhi offers a different rhythm with its wide boulevards lined with colonial landmarks like India Gate, a war memorial, and Rashtrapati Bhavan, the president’s residence. Nearby, Humayun’s Tomb, an architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal, is worth a visit before finding a moment of peace at the landscaped Sunder Nursery. Head further south to Mehrauli to explore the Unesco-listed Qutub Minar, India’s largest stone tower, standing at 72.5m.
Agra and the Taj Mahal - India’s bold declaration of love
Just four hours from Delhi via Yamuna Expressway, Agra is home to the world’s most famous monument of love – the Taj Mahal. Rising above the Yamuna River, this ivory-white marble mausoleum is every bit as breathtaking as you’ve heard, with its perfect symmetry and intricate inlay work.
However, the city holds more than just one icon.
The Agra Fort is another Unesco world heritage site; a sprawling complex of palaces, audience halls and mosques that tell the story of Mughal power. For a quieter moment, visit the Tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah, often called the “Baby Taj” for its delicate marble lattice screens (jali) and intricate carvings that predate the Taj Mahal’s own.
Two worthwhile stops en route to Jaipur, the final leg of this celebrated circuit, are the ancient fortified city of Fatehpur Sikri, and Chand Baori, a millennium-old stepwell in the village of Abhaneri. In Jaipur, Rajasthan’s capital, every corner offers something camera-ready.
Its Old City, famously painted pink in the 19th century to welcome the then-Prince of Wales – giving Jaipur its moniker “Pink City” – has colourful bazaars (markets) like Johari and Tripolia selling artisanal treasures.
It also has elaborate structures like the City Palace, which offers a glimpse into the life of the Indian royal family, who still reside in part of the complex; the terracotta-hued Hawa Mahal (or Palace of Winds), with its hundreds of latticed windows designed to allow royal ladies to watch the street proceedings without being seen; and Jantar Mantar, an 18th-century astronomical observatory. You can’t leave Jaipur without a visit to the golden-hued Amber Fort, a vast hilltop complex overlooking Maota Lake, complete with palaces, gardens and grand halls.
Extended escapes: Desert dunes, wildlife and coastal calm
For those with extra time, the region offers even more. There’s the blue city of Jodhpur, about a six-hour drive from Jaipur, and the best way to see it is from atop the mighty Mehrangarh Fort. Then there’s the golden city of Jaisalmer, roughly five hours from Jodhpur, home to a living fort and the vast sand dunes of the Thar Desert.
If you need a respite from the bustle of Indian cities, head into the forests of Ranthambore National Park and Sariska Tiger Reserve, where you can try to spot the elusive big cats.
To wrap up your journey on a peaceful note, spend a few days in Kerala, South India, where sun, sand, coastal fare and a soothing Ayurvedic spa retreat await.
Where to stay
No matter your budget, India offers a wealth of accommodation choices to suit every style of traveller. For those seeking an extravagant stay, the Leela Palace in Delhi, the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra, the Raffles Jaipur, and the Oberoi Vanyavilas Wildlife Resort, Ranthambore are top picks. For more affordable yet comfortable stays, House of Comfort Delhi, Hotel Atulyaa Taj in Agra, and Rawla Rawatsar in Jaipur deliver great value. For a full-on wellness experience, Somatheeram Ayurvedic Health Resort in Kerala is a good bet.
When to go
The ideal time to visit India is from October, when the monsoons taper off, to mid-March. This period also coincides with some of the country’s most vibrant celebrations, including Diwali (festival of lights) and Holi (festival of colours).
Visa requirements
Citizens of 172 countries – including New Zealand – are eligible for an eVisa, which can easily be applied for online. Alternatively, you can obtain it through the local Indian embassy or consulate. Tourist eVisas are available with a validity of 30 days, one year or five years. The 30-day visa allows two entries, while one and five-year visas offer multiple entries into India, with a maximum stay of 180 days per visit. Applications take at least 72 hours to process, so it is best to apply well in advance.
India dos and don’ts
To have a faux-pas-free journey, it helps to brush up on a few etiquette tips before you go.
Meeting and greeting: While English is widely spoken in larger cities, a simple “hello” and “thank you” works in smaller towns too. For a traditional touch, greet with a “namaste” in North India or “namaskara” down south (both meaning “I bow to you”), with your hands pressed together in front of your chest.
Right hand rules: When handing over things such as money to people, or when eating or shaking hands, use your right hand only. The left hand is for ablutions and other unsavoury tasks.
Public behaviour: Any kind of public display of affection (PDA) is best avoided, as it may draw unwanted attention. Also, do not point your feet towards people or deities, or touch objects with them.
Shoes off: Remove footwear when entering a private home, religious site and, in some regions, shops and clinics.
Dress the part: Modesty is key, particularly in sacred places and rural areas. Cover your legs and shoulders with loose, breathable fabrics. In some religious sites, you’ll need to cover your head (scarves and shawls come in handy) and avoid leather articles.
Safety advice
Solo travel: Travellers, especially solo females, should avoid deserted or dimly lit areas, and refrain from walking or using public transport during odd hours. LGBTQIA+ travellers should be mindful as views towards homosexuality tend to be conservative.
Be cautious of scams: Always use official tourist offices for bookings and inquiries, not those suggested by strangers. If someone takes you to a hotel or shop unasked, they are likely after a commission, and at airports and railway stations, be wary of people offering help out of the blue.
Watch out for food and water hygiene: Avoid tap water and ice in drinks, and skip raw foods and pre-sliced fruits. Pudin-Hara, an Ayurvedic minty medicine, works wonders for stomach issues and is easily available at any drugstore across India. Vaccinations for hepatitis A and B, tetanus, typhoid, diphtheria and polio are recommended. Malaria is common in certain regions, so it’s wise to check with your doctor about anti-malarial tablets.
Checklist
DELHI
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi with one stopover with Air NZ, Cathay Pacific, Qantas and Singapore Airlines. Most flight routes are based on a Star Alliance Codeshare.