The never-ending uphill climb on the Crown Range Summit (1076m) is worth it for the sense of success. Photo / Tsewant Nuru Sherpa
The never-ending uphill climb on the Crown Range Summit (1076m) is worth it for the sense of success. Photo / Tsewant Nuru Sherpa
Covering 1200km of New Zealand’s South Island on a 13-day bikepacking adventure is the ultimate way to see Aotearoa, writes Tsewang Nuru Sherpa
Nothing can outweigh the ecstasy and freedom of biking during the long, languorous summer days. Preparing for a long-distance bikepacking trip, however, necessitates a meticulous plan. After overcoming the arduous task of assembling all my bike-gear essentials, on a cold drizzly Christchurch morning, I took the Coastal Pacific train to Picton, and there began my bikepacking sojourn covering 1200 km from Picton to Queenstown, via the scenic West Coast.
Bikepacking - a fresh term here in New Zealand, but an activity as old as the bicycle itself. Bikepacking is widely regarded as the minimalist, cost-effective, multi-day excursion that enables a sense of adventure and freedom to celebrate life in the slow, lesser-known lanes, embracing active travel. Think of it as a coalescent of tramping and off-road cycling, except, you’ll be covering way more distances ranging from 40 km to 200 km a day. Bikepacking, today is at the forefront of its rise to popularity, as its fast enough to travel a whole country at a reasonable time but slow enough to explore myriad interesting sights and experiences, venturing off into more remote territory, exploring some of New Zealand’s finest sights at the perfect pace, whilst meeting the most interesting people.
When it comes to bikepacking gear, travel light and be practical. Photo / Tsewang Nuru Sherpa
Savouring slow travel and exploring places intimately
Travelling on a bike is different. You see more but in a profound sensory manner, and you experience more too. Each day, I pedalled amidst a plethora of unique landscapes, and with each increasing kilometre, I grew even more affectionate for the places I was passing: The scenic ride around the Queen Charlotte sound. The picturesque alpine Nelson lakes - Rotoiti and Rotoroa. The well-maintained West Coast Wilderness trail. The quaint and quirky towns: Franz Josef and Fox Glacier. The treacherous Haast pass (562m). The never-ending uphill climb on the Crown Range Summit (1076m). As I pedalled past the vineyards in the Marlborough region, soaking the robust aromas and crisp flavours of gooseberry, I stopped to chat with a winemaker and tasted some fresh grape varietals. I biked through the Buller Gorge, taking pictures of the once booming gold town of Charleston, and walked along the intrinsic Pancake rocks in Punakaiki. I hiked to the summit of Roy’s Peak on my so-called “rest day” from biking.
Tsewant Nuru Sherpa enjoys the picturesque alpine Nelson lakes. Photo / Tsewang Nuru Sherpa
Whilst long-distance biking can be the experience of a lifetime, there are also challenges, such as the unforgiving weather. On my ride from Murchison to Westport, whilst enjoying the plunging gorges and the roar of white water, the menacing sky suddenly burst into torrential rain gusting 50mph of wind. Completely soaked and defeated, I battled onwards until I stumbled upon a roadside cafe. Sipping warm coffee while the cold water seeped out of my rain-sodden clothes, I was at the lowest of my lows.
Where to find a sense of cycling community
I’ve come to appreciate how riding with a group can be an incredibly rewarding experience, albeit with a completely different feel. In contrast to the solitary venture, the group dynamic escalates into a life of its own, dawdling more and manifesting more into a social experience, fostering deeper connections and a sense of community.
Riding with a group, the trip slowly transitioned into a great learning experience for me. From the way someone packs their bike and their bike setup, to what they eat and refuel on the road. Most importantly, riding in a group always has a way of transforming simple ordinary events into something bigger. The coffee you share in a cafe is better because you get to enjoy the sip while reflecting on the ride, the stops you make at lakes or campsites are more enjoyable: you share the pain, banter, food and assimilate experiences with a shared appreciation of where we are, the challenges or personal highlights of the day’s ride.
Well-connected cycle trails in the South Island
New Zealand is famous for being a tramping country. After having ridden almost 1200km, I’ve come to realise that cycling is more popular. Thanks to the endless roster of cycle routes and a vast range of tracks catering to everyone, from a gentle breezy pedal around vineyards to a historic backcountry trail, from groomed trails to untamed gnarly runs, there is really something for everyone, whether beginner or the most well-seasoned biker - for an hour, a day, a week or even months.
On my bikepacking trip, I was amazed to ride along a few iconic bike trails. From riding along the sequence of cafes, and wineries to never-ending coastlines on the Tasman’s Great Taste Trail to the West Coast wilderness trail that encompassed a mixture of landscapes: rainforest, tumbling rivers, unspoiled lakes and beaches backdropped by the mighty Southern Alps. From riding along the picturesque Lake Hawea River trail to Wānaka, and then the Queenstown trail, I experienced the best of the southwest Otago region. On the other hand, the gnarly Maungatapu track offered a challenging terrain, climbing approximately 800m with a number of steep ascents.
Ride along the picturesque Lake Hawea River trail to Wānaka and camp overnight. Photo / Tsewang Nuru Sherpa
The Tour Aotearoa website has guidebooks and route details on Bikepacking the whole length of New Zealand, along some iconic NZ trails. touraotearoa.nz/p/home.html
The Tour Aotearoa Facebook page is a great place to ask questions and share stories of your bikepacking journeys. facebook.com/groups/touraotearoa
