KEY POINTS:
My Chinese horoscope says it will be an auspicious week for fishing. I mention this to my guide, John, and he responds with his own Confucius-like mantra: "Fly fishing is not just about catching fish."
I'm beginning to wonder if he's letting me down gently. That my first attempts at casting a line are in vain. That I'll never make an adept fly fisherwoman. But that's not it.
"Trout only hang out in beautiful places," he adds, gesturing at the view. We're standing knee-deep in the Tongariro River, beneath a blue sky and the shadow of the mountain, the water making a soothing bubbling sound as it flows past. I'm learning the physics of fly fishing. Having escaped a stressful week at work, traffic and apartment living, I'm also learning the art of Zen.
Before he was a guide, John ran an electronics company in Huntly. After 17 years of hard toil he ended up at the doctor, who told him that if he didn't change his lifestyle, it would send him to an early grave. So he packed it in and moved to Turangi where he has been a fly fishing guide for 12 years.
Despite John's philosophy on fly fishing, he's the first to admit there's nothing as satisfying as watching a first-timer catch a fish. We've come to the right place. Since Californian rainbow trout were introduced here 100 years ago, the Tongariro has become one of the world's premier trout fishing spots. Every winter, between 50,000 and 70,000 rainbow and brown trout migrate up the Tongariro to their spawning grounds, where they grow to at least 2kg. It's not yet peak season so despite a trio of amused fishermen watching me, we've got this stretch of river to ourselves.
This being the last wild trout fishery in New Zealand, trout stocks are systematically counted. Preservation and sustainability are buzz words here. You need a special licence to fly fish, and the daily limit is three a day, a minimum of 45cm each.
Those interested in getting a sense of the river's history, ecology and fishing resources can visit the Tongariro National Trout Centre in Turangi. School kids embark on the centre's education programme and tourists can wander through the hatchery.
Despite the river's healthy trout population, John insists fly fishing is a futile pursuit unless you get your technique right. It's not as simple as dangling the fly in the water and waiting. Fly fishermen cast their lines upstream so they float down the river, giving the impression of a real, swimming nymph. If the line is cast at the wrong angle, or a bend causes it to drag or speed up, the fish won't bite. It's a game of fraud.
John says my casting is "fabulous" then, perhaps sensing my swelling ego, reminds me that there's much more to fly fishing than knowing how to land your line in the water. "You have to know how to fish," he laughs.
We wade downstream and this time stand on the left bank as the water flows from the right. By now, ignoring the ache in my forearm, I've almost mastered the rhythmic gymnast-like casting action. But because the line lies slack on the water's surface, the only thing that will tell me if I've caught something is if the little coloured indicator moves.
The idea is to jerk the line across the body so the fly pierces the trout's lip before it has a chance to spit it out. Years have honed John's instincts. I can only rely on my reflexes as I watch the indicator float downstream.
I'm getting quite a few hits. Every time the indicator moves, my otherwise mellow guide screeches at me to strike.
Finally, after a few frustrating hits and misses, I strike like a madwoman and the line is pulled taut. My brain processes the motions slowly: hold the rod vertically, let the line run out so the panicking fish doesn't snap it right off, tighten it, repeat until the trout is exhausted. After a few seconds of give and take, I haul in my prize. This little fella is about half a pound and has to go back.
"Fly fishing is not just about how big your catch is," says John. "You wouldn't have caught anything if you didn't have the right technique."
He's right but he needn't have worried about allaying any disappointment. I'm thrilled. Fly fishing may not be all about catching a fish but when you do, it's a pretty good feeling.
Rebecca Barry flew to Taupo on Air New Zealand, and stayed at the Bridge Fishing Lodge, Turangi, care of Destination Lake Taupo.
GETTING THERE:
Air NZ flies return to Taupo three times a day from Auckland, Monday-Friday and twice a day on Saturday and Sunday.
See www.airnz.co.nz.
WHERE TO STAY:
Bridge Fishing Lodge can be contacted at (07) 386 8804 or www.bridgefishinglodge.co.nz.
WHAT TO DO:
John Somervell runs full and half-day fly fishing excursions on the Tongariro and Taupo Rivers. Go to www.nymphfish.com, (07) 386 5931.
The Tongariro National Trout Centre is on State Highway 1, 4km south of Turangi. See www.troutcentre.org.nz, (07) 386 8607.
Licences to fish the Tongariro are on sale at numerous outlets. See doc.govt.nz/templates/page.aspx?id=34618.
FURTHER INFORMATION:
For information on Taupo see www.laketauponz.com.
