Lake Taupo is one of the world's most cherished wild trout fisheries, of which there are a mere handful. The angler's prize, the glittering rainbow, was released into this vast water-filled volcanic crater in 1898 and has been self-sustaining within the lake and its tributaries ever since, weighing on average 1.8kg.
Anglers come to New Zealand from around the globe to pit their skill against the rainbow and the brown in conditions close to perfect. And while it is a thrill to experience a hook-up on any lake, it is only in Taupo that the fish are truly wild. Anglers will tell you it makes all the difference.
For those not born to fish, there is reward aplenty in just being on this vast expanse of water on a clear day, the volcanoes of the Central Plateau towering behind while the tide laps on to the sand of the horseshoe bays around Taupo township.
In autumn, the intense colour of water, sky and trees at 355m above sea level is spellbinding.
It is beauty born from extreme violence - Lake Taupo was largely created by the Oruanui eruption 26,500 years ago. A 500-metre deep caldera was created and this was enlarged by the 181AD Taupo eruption, the most violent in the world in the past 5000 years, the effects of which were seen in the sky above Europe and China.
To fish for trout, you must follow the rules, which is why many visitors to the region opt for charter fishing with Chris Jolly, whose family business has been operating from Taupo Marina since 1980. Their fleet includes the newly purchased Iridium, formerly the Auckland Viaduct-domiciled corporate launch of Fisher and Paykel. Even their smallest boat can comfortably take 10, which leaves plenty of room for Henry and I and a crew of two with Simon Jolly as skipper.
First we must purchase a 24-hour fishing licence for $15.50. Then there are the rules: You may only fish between 5am and midnight, the bag limit is three regardless of species, minimum size as measured from the snout to the fork of the tail is 45cm, you may only fish with one rod at a time and no live bait is permitted.
With flies on our lines, a weight and wire are used to drag them down to 35m where the temperature is a constant 10.1C - perfect trout territory.
Seated comfortably at the stern, we wait for the line to snap free from the wire, signalling a leap to action as a trout is hooked. Then it's a constant, steady reeling in of the line but with a deft touch, no jerking or rush as the fish fights.
When the fish runs, let it go, then start the winding again. It may take five minutes or more of patience and tenacity on the line and only when the fish is near the boat will you see it leap from the water, a flash of colour against the winter sky. This is the point where your prized rainbow is either lost or reeled in to be netted jubilantly at the boat and measured. I know this because I watched Henry do it three times.
Lunch on the launch is a spread which completely defeats us. It's also a chance to forget fishing for a bit while listening to Simon's yarns about the intensity of the charter groups from China who come here determined to bag their limits, or the corporate pride that goes on the line among the suits on company conference at Huka Lodge.
You can't buy trout in restaurants but the Chris Jolly crew will happily prepare and season your catch so it's ready to go straight on the grill and, boy, does this relative of the Pacific salmon taste delicious.
Personally, I'd like to catch just one fish I can take home for the barbecue. And after lunch, I get my strike. The line snaps, I reel tenaciously, let the fish run, and reel again. Watch it leap and yahoo as it is netted and measured as a respectable 49cm. My fish!
"What do you think of that," I yell.
"I told you it's mostly good luck," says Henry.
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If you go
Taupo is a three-hour drive from Auckland via State Highway 1. Chris Jolly Outdoors recommend three hours as a minimum time for a fishing excursion and the starting price for this is NZ$540 (A$484).
For more information on Chris Jolly Outdoors freephone 0800 252 628 within NZ, or +64 7 378 0623 from Australia. Email chrisj@chrisjolly.co.nz or go to www.chrisjolly.co.nz
For more information on Lake Taupo region go to www.laketauponz.com
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Lake Taupo Facts
Length: 25 nautical miles (46km)
Width: 18 nautical miles
Perimeter: 104 nautical miles
Area: 60,000ha (600km)
Volume: 59km
Height above sea level: Minimum (chart datum) 355.9m
Depth: Maximum 186.8m below chart datum. Average 110m
Surface Temperature: Coldest winter 10.6C. Summer average 18C
(Source: Destination Lake Taupo)
