Crossing forests, moorland, hillsides and deep valleys, William Mackesy finds trekking in Tasmania blissful.
At last we are tramping western Tasmania's Overland Track, entering a World Heritage wilderness packed with natural wonders. Mountains and rocky outcrops brood above tarn-sprinkled moorland and deep valleys. Vivid and varied grass, shrub and forest harbour wallabies, echidnas and Tasmanian devils.
Even better, Australia's best known trail is not too tough, if you are prepared: think Scotland rather than the Himalayas. It is a walkers' heaven and I have wanted to come here for years. But it is a long journey, and an effort to get a permit, so this is a once-in-a-lifetime hike.
There is another small issue: Tasmania sits square in the Roaring Forties. Even the summer weather is fickle and today a gale is hurling rain into our faces: I feel like King Lear in boots.
After a long meander, we find our lodge up a hidden path. Most walkers bunk up in the simple, eco-friendly huts along the way, or camp nearby. We are travelling the "other" way, staying in the superbly sited Cradle Mountain Huts, which have the benefit of hot showers.
