Dig below the surface and you'll find that Taranaki has some of New Zealand's best gardens, because it was a garden before it was Taranaki. In fact, New Zealand's smallest province boasts seven of New Zealand's 24 gardens of national significance. How come?
The bloke who the Plymouth Company sent out from England in 1841 to select a site for the new Plymouth, Frederic Carrington, chose Taranaki over sites at Queen Charlotte Sound and Tasman Bay.
Ideally, he wanted fertile land and a safe harbour. But when it came to the crunch, Carrington reasoned, you could build a safe harbour a lot quicker than you could build fertile land. So Fred planted the seed of New Plymouth, which was to become Taranaki, between the Huatoki and Te Henui Rivers. He later wrote to England, "The Plymouth Company has the garden of this country."
Seven years later, William Batter reckoned he had the garden of New Plymouth, writing, "I have the best garden in the place. I raise everything to an amazing size. I have this year about 400 bushels of wheat. I raise yearly about 50 tons of potatoes, very large, 1000 tons of Swedes, about 300 cabbages from 10 to 40 pounds each, and a great quantity of fruit and flowers and other vegetables in abundance. This is, I think, the finest climate in the whole world."
Although vegetable gardens aren't that vast these days, they still grow well. Growing up in Taranaki, my father always had a large garden full of vegetables, and still grows a smaller plot today.
While it was vegetables that bestowed "the garden of New Zealand" title on Taranaki, it is now the blooming private and public flower gardens that continue the legacy. Locals have imported and bred some outstanding flowers from around the world.
My late grandfather, Bill Brogden, brought back a handful of gladiolus seeds from France after fighting in World War I.
The gladioli flourished in Taranaki and Bill went on to win national competitions and breed new trends and colours into the flowers. In 1988, at the age of 95, his work was recognised by being the first New Zealander (or Australian) to be admitted to the International Gladiolus Hall of Fame.
As a small child, I remember being bemused at the extraordinary efforts he went to when packing up a prized gladioli before posting it to a competition. He would pad a stout cardboard box with shredded newspaper, delicately place a long gladioli bloom into it, add more padding and tie the box with string.
His next action entertained me most. Standing on top of his work bench, he would hold the box above his head, with prized bloom inside, and drop it unceremoniously to the concrete floor. If, after opening a corner of the box he found the bloom to his liking, he would post it off to the exhibition. If not, he would start the whole procedure again.
My grandfather certainly wasn't the only one to import and breed plants from around the world. Felix Jury visited several countries and bought back plants that he created various hybrids from. His son, Mark, continues that tradition today. In 2003, he received the Todd Gresham Award from the International Magnolia Society for his work with red magnolias.
The Jury Garden has bred a number of hybrids, including the magnolia black Vulcan (which recently featured on 45 cent stamps), lolanthe, Black Tulip and Felix Jury. Their Camellia hybrids include the Dreamboat, Fairy Blush and Itty Bit.
In one garden, Mark points out tropical and alpine plants growing together. He says, "This is what is remarkable really. How plants from such diverse climates grow so well here. It's amazing to see."
Thousands of visitors see the Jury Garden and 44 others during the annual Taranaki Rhododendron and Garden Festival. With Taranaki hogging seven of the top 24 gardens of national significance, as assessed by the Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, the festival offers not only outstanding gardens but also associated activities.
This year's festival, from October 28 to November 6, includes numerous speakers, guided garden walks, workshops and more. You can get a free programme listing of all events and gardens on www.rhodo.co.nz
While the festival leverages the blooms of spring, the "finest climate in the world" ensures visitors experience great gardens all year round. Pukeiti is probably Taranaki's - if not New Zealand's - most famous garden, and has a garden for all seasons, "a sanctuary for all time" as its theme.
That's because Taranaki was a garden-in-waiting when old Fred Carrington selected New Plymouth's site and now, because of the dozens of gardens throughout the area, is a sanctuary from the artificial, manmade world. His judgment has proved to be wise. New Plymouth's safe harbour is the busiest on the West Coast and Taranaki is still "the garden of New Zealand".
Where to stay
It pays to book in advance during the Taranaki Rhododendron and Garden Festival. For detailed information, visit Taranaki's official tourism (link below) or phone i-SITES at; Hawera 06 278-8599; Stratford 0800 765-6708, and New Plymouth 06 759-6060.
Gardens to visit
For a full list of gardens in this year's festival, visit the official website at www.rhodo.co.nz or phone 0800 746363.
Pukekura Park
This central public park is always open. No entry fee. Vehicle gates open 7.30am to 7pm and close 8pm during daylight saving. There are also car parks close to all park entrances.
Pukeiti
2290 Carrington Rd, New Plymouth. Opens daily from 9am to 5pm Sep-March, 10am to 3pm April-Aug. Closed Christmas Day. Last entry 30 minutes before closing time. No dogs except guide dogs. Entry fee $10 adults, $9 seniors, kids up to 16 free. Ph (06) 752 4141, or follow the email link below.
The Jury Garden
589 Otaraoa Rd, Waitara. Ph/fax (06) 754 6671, follow the email link below. Opens 8.30am to 5pm Sept-Feb, by appointment other times. $8 adult.
Ngamamaku Garden
1521 Surf Highway 45, Oakura. Ph (06) 752 7873, follow the email link below. Opens daily 9am to 6pm. Entry $5. This 1.2ha is one of Taranaki's finest privately owned gardens.
Te Popo Gardens
636 Stanley Rd, Stratford. Ph (06) 762-8775. Open 9am-5pm Entry $8. Also offers country retreat accommodation.
Hollard Gardens
1686 Upper Manaia Rd, Kaponga. Open 9am-5pm, free entry, ph (06) 764 6544. These magnificent gardens, covering 4.5ha, were established in 1927.
Taranaki a blooming lovely place to visit
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