Taking a trot to Hurunui

By HEATHER RAMSAY

Hurunui isn't a name that's heard often in tourism circles, yet some of the South Island's most popular destinations are cradled in this area of North Canterbury, between the rolling breakers of the Pacific and the rugged mountain peaks of the Main Divide.

Hanmer Springs, Kaikoura and the wine-producing area of Waipara Valley form the heavyweight tourism trinity of Hurunui, but every little town has its own story, none more so than Hurunui, the tiny hamlet that shares its name with the region and the nearby river.

Since the hamlet is in prime huntin', shootin' and fishin' territory, and surrounded by high country sheep stations, I'm expecting the local hotel to be full of strong, silent, Southern Men - the kind of blokes who can't bear to move north and forsake their local brew for a woman.

Perhaps I'm not far enough south, or perhaps I've just been brainwashed by the advertising industry, because when I enter the Hurunui Hotel, the only patrons are an animated group of mixed gender, all drinking white wine and looking as if they're dressed for a day in Queen St.

However, the limestone-block hostelry has a history dating back to 1860, so no doubt many gentlemen of the aforesaid type have draped themselves over the bar and consumed a welcome ale.

Back then, drovers tried to stop the spread of scab into Canterbury by dipping their flocks here before crossing the river, and the hotel was a beacon for weary travellers on their way to and from the West Coast goldfields.

It was a day's ride from the next accommodation house in either direction, so journeys were broken here, and horses were watered and fed in the adjacent stables.

Today fast cars flash by on the route between Christchurch and Hanmer Springs, but Hurunui hasn't forgotten the heritage bestowed on it by the first settlers who braved their way into the town. That would be almost impossible, especially when one of them occasionally appears in the Hurunui Hotel.

The hotel is haunted, and if you follow in the footsteps of early wayfarers and bed down here overnight, you might come face to face with Charlotte, the resident ghost. Charlotte was a maid who disappeared under mysterious circumstances at the end of the 19th century, and since then many patrons have seen her moving about the premises.

She is such an accepted feature of the hotel that when the walls were lined during renovations, locals insisted that a ghost-sized space be left between the linings.

It seems these strong southern types couldn't bear the thought of their favourite ghost being trapped forever in the walls or ceilings.

I'm not superstitious, but when the hotel proprietor opens the door to "Charlotte's room", the air is freezing compared to the cheery warmth of the other guest rooms.

Publicans know the worth of a good tale, and after hearing a couple of spooky ghost yarns, I ask whether he has seen Charlotte himself.

It's a neither confirm nor deny situation, and there's a bit of cagey mumbling about the strength of the local brew heightening one's perception.

If the haunted hotel doesn't give you a chill, add the old morgue, which was a requirement of licensed premises in those days.

The morgue is on the dark, cold side of the hotel, which was sensible in those pre-refrigeration days. No bodies were ever stored here but it does explain why Charlotte's room is so cold - it's directly above the morgue.

If century-old ghosts were watching, they would be pleased with other developments happening around the hotel.

Three years ago the original limestone stables were just a few sad piles of rubble, but when word got out about a possible restoration project, locals voluntarily returned three truckloads of the original blocks, which had been taken to nearby farms to be used for decorative purposes.

The stable is now a gift shop selling wares from the area, not least of which is wine bearing the Hurunui Stable label, produced from the hotel's latest addition, a vineyard that stretches up the hill behind the hotel.

The blacksmith's shop is also being restored, and for anyone who is nervous about sleeping in the hotel with a ghost, a self-contained cob, limestone and timber cottage hidden among the grapevines will be available this summer.

Along the road at Black Hills, there are no ghosts, just treasured memories.

Jim Forrester had always dreamed of restoring the 1860 limestone and cob cottage and woolshed, and when he died unexpectedly, his wife Beverley took on the project in his memory.

The work was slow and backbreaking, but community members pitched in, and their effort was rewarded with a Hurunui District Council Environment Heritage Award.

Open days are held at Black Hills, when period costumes add authenticity to demonstrations of traditional farming and shearing methods.

The buildings can be visited at other times, and besides gaining an understanding of pioneering farming methods, visitors can browse through the range of knitwear and tapestry items produced using wool from the farm. Tours of the modern working farm are also available.

Rob Stanley is another local keeping tradition alive in Hurunui.

He called on his experience as a stockman to start Hurunui Horse Treks, which provides a range of horseback adventures in the spectacular North Canterbury High Country.

Most treks offer comfortable accommodation at the end of each day, but those with a true pioneering spirit can follow the trail of the early settlers through the challenging terrain of Molesworth Station and Clarence Reserve to the coast at Kaikoura.

Packhorses carry supplies for the eight-day trek, and camps are made beside picturesque lakes and swift, clear rivers, as well as at some of the original accommodation houses en route.

Heritage and horse treks, ghosts and grapevines, whatever your fancy, the spirit of Hurunui is sure to haunt you for a long time to come.

Getting there:

Hurunui is 86km from Christchurch and 51km from Hanmer Springs.

From Christchurch, take SH 1 north to Waipara and turn inland on SH 7.

The Hanmer Connection bus connects Christchurch, Hanmer Springs and Kaikoura, passing Hurunui twice daily. Phone 0800 377 378

Things to see and do:

Hurunui Hotel:

1224 Karaka Rd, SH 7, Hurunui, North Canterbury. Ph 03 314 4207; 025 372 291; fax 03 314 4163; email hurunui@xtra.co.nz

The Stables of Hurunui:

SH 7, Hurunui. Ph 03 314 4224; fax 03 314 4313.

Hurunui Horse Treks:

Phone/fax 03 314 4204; email info@hurunui.co.nz

Hurunui Horse Treks

Black Hills Heritage Collection:

701 Karaka Rd, SH 7, Hurunui. Ph/fax 03 314 4195; 025 226 5538

Golf Adventures NZ:

99 Limeworks Rd, Waikari. Phone 03 314 4950; fax 03 314 4960

Hurunui Hunting & Fishing:

34 Dalzels Rd, Hawarden. Ph 03 314 4476; fax 03 314 4475

Hurunui Tourism Board: Ph 03 314 8816; fax 03 314 9181;

email info@hurunui.co.nz