Take your breath away

Running down the Pacific Coast Highway from Opotiki to Te Kaha, the race is on between us on our motorbike and a solid grey wall of rain moving in from the west. The water wall is gaining but, just as it looks like we're in for a certain drenching, we spy a sign and pull in, unannounced, to Tui Lodge's carport.

Host Rex Carpenter, who runs the lodge with wife Joyce and son Peter, says, "Some people expect a motel around every corner here."

This most easterly part of New Zealand has many more corners than lodgings. We're lucky to find such pleasant surroundings at short notice.

The purpose-built lodge has five ensuite guest rooms and is set in 1.2ha of semitropical gardens. Homegrown veges share space with banana trees out the back and well-groomed lawns flow from the veranda at the front. Across the driveway is a peaceful ferny grotto with a picnic table and seats for a quiet read.

We share our private upstairs quarters with a bikie friend, who takes a single room while we spread our gear in a comfortable, modern double room with a view of volcanic White Island floating in the Pacific Ocean. Luckily binoculars are provided. There's also a library/TV room with comfy sofas, newspapers, bar-fridge and tea-making facilities.

Joyce's homemade bread and chutneys go well with a pre-dinner drink in the lodge's striking, six-sided lounge, which has a hand-adzed totara pole as a centrepiece.

Rex goes the extra mile as a host and insists on lending us a car for the rainy, albeit short trip to nearby Te Kaha for extra refreshments.

Some of New Zealand's most breathtaking coastal scenery is within an hour's drive east of Te Kaha, along one of the country's least-travelled state highways.

Whanarua Bay is the prettiest cove and nearby Pacific Coast Macadamias and Cafe is a good place to stop for tea, a toastie and some macadamia nut treats.

Further down the track, the tall-steepled Raukokore Church sits seaside on a grassy verge. All are welcome, according to the sign on the door, which also apologises for the fishy smell made by a whanau of penguins nesting under the baptismal font's floorboards.

Just past the church, Waihau Bay's funky historic hotel serves food and drink with seaviews.

We pass up a fishing charter at this popular spot and stop further along at Hick's Bay for a chat with some locals catching kahawai by the bucket-load on one of the many wharves and jetties.

The most easterly lighthouse in New Zealand is a few more kilometres along the highway, if you don't mind a bit of unsealed road and watching out for wandering stock. On our travels we share the road with a hairy black porker, lots of bareback horse riders and the inevitable sheep and cattle.

East, I'm convinced, is best.

• Karen Goa paid her own way to East Cape.

Where to find it

Tui Lodge, 201 Copenhagen Rd, Te Kaha, Bay of Plenty. Approximately one hour's drive east of Opotiki.

Contact

Ph/fax (07) 325 2922, email jorex@xtra.co.nz, or go to the Tui Lodge website

What it costs

Double $100-$130, single $75-$95, including breakfast.

Food

Tariff includes full cooked breakfast. Dinner $30 a person by arrangement. Meals feature naturally grown produce from the Carpenters' gardens.

What else to do

Ask hosts about horse trekking or bushwalks at Maungaroa Station in the Raukumara Ranges, Motu River jet boat tours and fishing charters.