Take a punt on Christchurch

SUE HOFFART comes away from a weekend in Christchurch a converted fan of the Garden City.

As soon as we settle back into the long, low boat, we leave behind the street noise and Sunday-afternoon crowds in central Christchurch. We glide amidst mallards, the roads and buildings give way to Hagley Park's leafy riverbanks and the knots at the back of my neck begin to unravel.

You don't sit in a punt. You lounge. Down here, below the city, our personal punter quietly shows us where the eels hide, proffers a little local history, recommends a restaurant and tells us that passengers who nod off are paying him the ultimate compliment.

Frankly, I had always written off punting as a tourist trap; a few blokes in boaters hamming it up for hordes of camera-toting sightseers. It turns out, punting is the therapeutic equivalent of a massage and counselling session in one, it is possibly good for the soul and is definitely the perfect way to wrap up a busy weekend in the city.

For some reason, I had expected garish painted ladies rather than these custom-built, natural-timber beauties which come kitted with blankets, umbrellas and glasses and corkscrews for BYO wine. And this civilised method of enjoying the Avon River is not just for tourists. Patients and families from the adjacent bone marrow treatment centre come to escape their harsh daily realities.

One local executive used to bring his young daughter down to the river every Sunday morning, so he could read his newspaper in peace while his daughter talked to the punter (that's truly what the pole-wielding boat-propulsion blokes call themselves) in a neighbouring craft.

A couple of hours earlier, the same river had been a barely visible glint on the horizon as I gulped lungs full of unsullied southern air on a windswept ridge of rock and tussock. In fact, I was breathing fairly normally compared to the mountain bikers spending Sunday afternoon scaling the Port Hills.

The rugged slopes are a playground for hikers and bikers, rock climbers, dog walkers and Sunday drivers like me.

The scenic 34.5km Summit Road traverses the ridge, offering a new outlook over the city to Pegasus Bay, with Lyttelton Harbour behind. Suddenly, the 132 steps that lead to the top of the downtown cathedral seem less impressive.

A 15-minute drive from big-city bustle and pancake-flat terrain brings travellers to the small, colourful port town of Lyttelton. Here, Victorian cottages cling, Wellington-fashion, to the steep terrain where street parking demands sturdy handbrakes. Early European settlers who arrived by sea had to trudge to Christchurch on foot because the overland track was too steep for horse riding. These days, a 2km tunnel offers commuters an easier alternative.

The charming town is less proper and far less tourist-infested than her beautifully manicured, larger neighbour and we elect to lunch at one of several pleasant, friendly cafes. A local in the know recommends Volcano Cafe for its eclectic Bill Hammond and Dean Buchanan art works on the wall. After dark, Wunderbar is apparently a must, with its macabre plastic doll's head lampshades. We end up at No. 6 Cafe, where regulars are greeted by name and the owner dishes up cheerful, cheeky service with his substantial filled bagels.

The relaxed pace is a nice contrast to Saturday's lunch, eaten on the run amidst the buzz and hubbub of the excellent weekend market at Christchurch Arts Centre.

At the back of the market, in the shadow of magnificent Gothic Revival buildings, a twin row of sizzling, smoky, mobile food stalls afford stomach-gurgling aromas and paper plates full of Asian mung bean cake and Greek souvlaki. Prices are fair and quality is high at the adjacent art, craft and produce market which fronts onto Worcester Boulevard. Beautiful breads, goats' milk soap, jewel-coloured homespun mohair scarves, Oamaru-stone clocks and shiny apples beg to be bought. Juggling, bubble-blowing buskers add music and hilarity to the mix - despite ourselves, we laugh long and hard at the youthful street performer who pulls a rubber glove over his head and inflates it by snorting through his nostrils.

Across the road, we ogle the multi-panelled glass walls that house rather more highbrow forms of art. Construction of the $47.5 million Christchurch Art Gallery is complete, with its nine exhibition areas, library, auditorium, workrooms, restaurant and retail outlets. The official opening was held last month.

And one street away, four blocks from Cathedral Square, we can only shake our heads at the inimitable 180ha Hagley Park. Coming as we do from a newer, rather carelessly planned city, it is barely comprehensible that anyone would have the foresight to devote so much valuable land to green space. We kick up piles of autumn leaves and watch in-line skaters, joggers and an Asian bridal couple being videoed on the riverbank.

Near Cathedral Square, an Indian film crew is also gathering footage. Tourists and locals pause to stare at the rather portly male movie star high-stepping with a line of Lycra-clad local girls.

Heading back towards the cafe-lined strip of Oxford Tce, we find ourselves waylaid by the wonderful Scorpio Books store in Hereford St and the excellent brews at Vivace cafe across the road.

All of which proves there is no need to plan a weekend in this eminently accessible city. Shops, hotels, parks, river, historic buildings, theatres and dozens of wonderful eateries are a short, flat walk from a city centre that is free from our capital's wheeze-inducing hills and Auckland's sprawl.

At night, when a girlfriend and I wander downtown for an evening meal, we feel surprisingly safe.

Thinking about this later, I suspect the sensation of security is illusory, a direct result of viewing through the recently donned rose-tinted glasses of a fan.

Getting there

If you book early enough, Air New Zealand's cheapest available Auckland-Christchurch return fare is $180. We paid $240 return for a Rotorua-Christchurch return fare. Origin Pacific fares are similar. Christchurch International Airport is 12km from the central city, serviced by taxis, shuttle buses and public transport.

When to go

The city quietens down between the summer rush and peak ski season, which can translate to cheaper airfares and vehicle rental and some good hotel deals.

Where to stay

Anyone keen on the "stay centrally and walk" option will find the inner city well equipped with everything from hostels to hotels to bed and breakfast establishments in historic homes.

We stayed at the Millennium Hotel, on the edge of Cathedral Square. Our cavernous, 10th-floor suite had a separate lounge, a king bed and an enormous bathroom with spa bath and his and hers hand basins. At this time of year, the hotel offers a romance package - bed, breakfast, and bubbly on arrival - for $285 a suite.

At weekends, special bed and breakfast rates start at $155 for standard or premium room. (14 Cathedral Square, Christchurch, ph (03) 365 1111, 0800 808 228,
email millennium.christchurch@mcqhotels.co.nz)

Getting around

Aside from the usual modes of public transport, a free shuttle bus services the inner city and the historic trams ($10 an adult all day, kids are free) also do a city circuit. Otherwise, consider punting on the Avon ($15 an adult for half an hour) or in-line skating in Hagley Park. We used a zippy red Honda CRV from Kiwi Car Rentals (0800 549-4227). At this time of year, that vehicle rents for $119 a day including unlimited mileage and insurance.

Hanmer Springs, Mount Hutt skifields and Banks Peninsula are less than two hours away.

Information

Christchurch and Canterbury Visitor Centre, open seven days from 8.30am, Old Chief Post Office, Cathedral Square West, ph (03) 379 9629, fax (03) 377 2424.
Email info@christchurchnz.net.

For local events, check out www.bethere.org.nz.

* Sue Hoffart travelled with assistance from Canterbury Tourism.