Swimming in the balmy waters of Tahiti/ Photo / Supplied
Swimming in the balmy waters of Tahiti/ Photo / Supplied
Far from work, Winston Aldworth clocks in to experience the charms of Tahiti.
' Why work?" asked Paul Gauguin. "The gods are there to lavish upon the faithful the good gifts of nature."
I can't claim to be among the gods' faithful, but I like the sentiment and, having recently escaped from Auckland's winter to swim in the waters of Tahiti, I've seen the "good gifts of nature" that were lavished upon him and appreciate what inspired Gauguin to feel this way.
Tahiti got hold of Gauguin when he first arrived there in 1891. He went "to live there in ecstasy, calm and art" and was quickly won over by the place. A hero of the Post-Impressionist movement, he was transfixed by the colour and light of Polynesia. A Frenchman, he was hooked on the women.
Gauguin figured he could pack in the European rat race - the mundane details of modern living, the hassles of earning a salary and paying your bills - and make good in the tropical sun. I don't blame him.
A century before him, the crew of the HMS Bounty asked the same question: Why work?
In their case, the Royal Navy had a sharp answer: Because we'll hunt you down and hang you. Nonetheless, Tahiti's spell emboldened those men to down tools and make a new life in the tropics. Why work?
As with Gauguin, I understand what inspired them to feel this way.
We can thank the Bounty mutineers and Gauguin for placing Tahiti foremost in European minds as the archetypal tropical paradise. New Zealanders are spoilt for choice when considering an island getaway. Other than the islands themselves, no nation could be judged to be closer to so many of the South Pacific's islands. We've got it good and - rightly - Kiwis often experience what those islands have to offer.
Relaxing at Sofitel Moorea la Ora Resort. Photo / Supplied
Yet Tahiti's rarefied status as a haven of tropical idyll comes to us from our European history - possibly in its first telling as a story shared by sailors. The word "Tahiti" represented a land where the siren call of maidens echoed, no roar of workplace clamour or dark satanic mills.
Today, the calm is still there, the maidens too. The tropical sun and the warm waters of French Polynesia are as magical as their reputation demands. Time in Tahiti is more than just time away from the office, it's a break in a fantasy land.
The fantasy is aided by the Frenchness of it all. The baguettes and "bonjours" make this an unusual Pacific destination. Amid the sunshine, ukuleles and Polynesian smiles, there are fabulous winelists, French food and Belgian beers.
The writer checks out the view from beneath an overwater bungalow. Photo / Winston Aldworth
Of course, the mod cons eventually arrived. European niceties that even Gauguin must have missed sail into port in the Tahitian resorts.
As one miserable bugger, Cedric Belfrage, depressingly put it: "European imperialism long ago made Tahiti a distant suburb of Paris, the missionaries made it a suburb of Christ's kingdom, and the radio made it a suburb of Los Angeles."
I was grateful for such first-world charms as air-conditioning, and for those wine lists too. I didn't hear any local radio, so can't vouch for the LA connection. But Tahiti has kept enough of its legendary allure that I can see how the boys were pulled from the Bounty and Gauguin from Paris. Why work? What mugs we are.
Tahiti on three budgets
A family break - Vanira Lodge
Vanira Lodge. Photo / Supplied
Around the south side of Tahiti Iti - the smaller of the two main islands - you'll find this brilliant guest lodge. Each chalet is unique, with different floorplans and facilities. They're all tucked away into private parts of the hillside bush and made from materials found on the site or sourced nearby. There's a small restaurant and play areas that make it ideal for families.
Close to the giant surfbreaks of Teahupo'o, this is a great spot for adventurous travellers who want to explore the waters and the island's interior. Vanira Lodge's remoteness means you'll be getting an experience far from the larger resorts.
With plenty of activities for kids and a family-friendly restaurant, the Pearl is a great spot for families to stay and for those wanting to make explore Moorea's interior.
The snorkelling from here is fabulous - as it is in many parts of the island - and guests can join a range of day trips that explore the reef. There's a small village nearby where you can grab domestic essentials or get a meal away from the resort.
Top end - Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort
Sofitel Moorea la Ora Beach Resort. Photo / Supplied
This is what Tahiti is all about: waking to the sound of the ocean lapping against the deck of your overwater bungalow. There's a surreal moment when you first enter your room and stand - gobsmacked by its awesomeness - staring through the glass panel in the floor at the fish (tons of 'em) swimming below. Grab your snorkelling gear and get in there.
All of the resort's buildings have tremendous sea views, looking back towards Tahiti Nui. There are two restaurants, with the upmarket K right on the beach, blending the best of France with the Polynesian setting - it boasts a fabulous wine list and a brilliant degustation menu.
