Two deep geothermal basins are surrounded by the Rainbow Mountain Scenic Reserve. Photo / dawninnewzealand
The heated underbelly of earth simmers close to the surface on the Thermal Explorer Highway between Rotorua and Taupō, writes Ceana Priest.
There's a simmering hotbed of geothermal activity beneath State Highway 5. And with scientists suggesting that only 16km of terra firma separate your car tyres from bubbling magma, it's tempting to get a little heavy-footed.
But, despite its location on a geological hotplate, this 80km section of the Thermal Explorer Highway stretching from Rotorua to Taupō shouldn't be rushed. So ease off the accelerator and take a more leisurely drive between the two geothermal townships.
The culprits behind the region's bubbling mud-pools, geysers and soothing mineral waters are two immense tectonic plates colliding deep within the earth's crust. This collision field has created the 350km-long Taupō Volcanic Zone, stretching from Mount Ruapehu to Whakaari/White Island. Active for two million years, and despite being only 50km wide, this zone has produced some of the world's most devasting eruptions stretching back 300,000 years - including the Taupō Volcano Hātepe eruption 1800 years ago, which decimated the surrounding landscape.
But if the nerves can cope, here are four easy side-trips to take on your geothermal journey.
Waiotapu Boardwalk, Waiotapu
This boardwalk on the edge of a mud pool gives you plenty of angles to watch the burping landscape release its sulphur-scented gases. Take the short walk to the upper viewing platform to peer over the 45m-wide mud field, which could be more than a few thousand years old. It's not the biggest mud pool in town, but it's free, fun and you'll feel close to the action. If mud science is your thing, the interpretation panels are worth reading.
Know before you go: Head south from Rotorua on SH5 for about 30 min (30km). Turn left on to Waiotapu Loop Rd and follow the Mud Pool signs. Suitable for walking, buggies and wheelchairs. No dogs allowed.
Crater Lake Walk, Maunga Kākaramea/Rainbow Mountain
Dramatic, barren orange and red steaming cliffs are highlights of this easy walk. Regenerating kānuka provides shade from the car park as you navigate the short 500m trail towards the viewing platform. The cliffs provide a dramatic backdrop to two deep geothermal basins surrounded by the Rainbow Mountain Scenic Reserve, which has significant botanical and scientific importance – including rare plant species unique to geothermal areas. The mountain was originally a volcano, and although it has cooled, the still smouldering landscape remains a crowd-pleaser. Allow 30 minutes (1km) return for walking to the lookout.
The dual-usage bike and walking trail continues to the summit of Maunga Kākaramea/Rainbow Mountain (Mountain of the red ochre) with its 360-degree views of the region and south to the volcanic peaks of Tongariro National Park. Allow an additional 90 minutes one way if walking to the summit.
Know before you go: Head south from Rotorua on SH5 for about 25 min (25km). The car park is just after the SH38 turnoff. Suitable for walking and bikes. No dogs allowed.
Butcher's Pool, Reporoa
Settle in for a soak at this mineral pool surrounded by bucolic lush green farmland, with maybe a few farm animals eyeballing you from nearby. The pool is continuously topped up with mineral water from a nearby spring, making it less "fragrant" than other natural pools. The grassy slopes beside the pool are picnic-worthy, so bring plenty of snacks for your visit. One of Reporoa's first settlers, Mr Butcher, gifted the pool to local families, and it's near his original homestead. Due to its natural source, it's not safe to put your head underwater.
Know before you go: From SH5, turn off towards Reporoa halfway between Taupō and Rotorua. Drive south on Broadlands Rd, look out for the signposted pools. Toilets available.
Ceana Priest is the author of family-friendly Outdoor Kid guidebooks. outdoorkid.co.nz