Steaming up the Southern Alps

By CHRISTINE McCRACKEN

A round 170 of us are standing in the snow, high in the Southern Alps, stamping our feet to keep warm. We're part of a steam train excursion from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass that has taken place every year since 1988.

Some of the children have resorted to lobbing snowballs at each other to counter the boredom. A few have missed their intended target and left white circles of snow on some of our backs.

Suddenly, with the piercing sound of a whistle, our heads turn in unison. This is no ordinary whistle, it belongs to a thundering steam-powered locomotive, black smoke billowing from its stack into the clear blue sky, brass-work gleaming in the sun. It's here at last.

The Mainline Steam Trust, a group of steam train enthusiasts, has fired up one of its carefully restored and much-cherished steam locomotives and, with Tranz Scenic, given us the rare chance to experience the thrill of steam-powered travel.

Today we are powered by "Ab663", also known as "Sharon Lee", built in Christchurch in 1917 and sister to the better-known Kingston Flyer. Unlike other locomotives of her type, Ab663 has been converted from her original coal firing to oil, making her more economic to run, thankfully cleaner but no less spectacular.

Our departure from Christchurch and slow journey across the Canterbury Plains does not go unmarked. Motorists pull off the road to watch this rare sight and people line every rail crossing along the way. Some even drive from one vantage spot to another taking photos and video footage. It's more fun to be on board though.

Just like all "living things", steam trains need a regular intake of water. A refilling stop at Springfield allows us to alight for a closer inspection of the engine and a few close-up photos. Care has to be taken that no one strays across the tracks into the way of a passing coal train.

We are an assorted mix, from older passengers who remember when steam was king, to families with excited children who have never seen these stirring machines. Some are true train fanatics and some, like me, are just there for the experience.

Our route climbs slowly into the Alps and the atmosphere in the warm, modern carriages is one of suppressed excitement and light-hearted enjoyment. The shivers of those returning from the small, outdoor viewing platform near the rear of the train reinforces my decision not to venture out.

As we enter the first of 16 tunnels, the stubborn few who remain outside unexpectedly find themselves in a hot, dark, steam-bath - from fridge to spa in two seconds.

We wind along the sides of steep river gorges beside the Waimakariri River until we reach Broken River Viaduct where, to my surprise, the train gently rolls to a stop.

The photographers among us are told they can alight and walk up a rise beside the tracks while the train backs up across the viaduct for a short distance. We wait impatiently for Ab663 to steam her way back over the viaduct with the river tumbling far below and snow-topped hills behind. It is the perfect chance to capture photos which appear like a scene half a century old.

Back on board I make my way unsteadily along the narrow aisle to the buffet car and check out the selection of snacks and drinks; my choice is an updated and tasty version of the traditional "railway ham sandwiches and fruit cake". The experienced enthusiasts have taken their own food and drink, while I have to stumble back to my seat trying hard not to spill my coffee.

For the final leg from Cass to Arthur's Pass, I have the rare opportunity to ride in the cab of the locomotive. We steam alongside snow-lined rivers, the locomotive shaking snow from overhanging trees which showers across the roof. Immediately in front of me is a blast furnace while, in the open-backed cab, a chilly wind whistles past my ears. It's hot, cramped and deafeningly noisy but awe-inspiring and unforgettable.

Signal problems have left us well behind schedule, shrinking a planned one-hour stop at Arthur's Pass to 40 minutes. No one appears to mind.

There's time for a short walk, a chance for photos of the train on the turntable, for the kids to make more snowballs, or to enjoy some peace in the waiting carriages drinking hot coffee.

Dusk settles in as the train makes its way down to Springfield where we wait for the following TranzAlpine train to pass. The wait lengthens when a few mechanical problems surface on our train, but the on-board mechanics work quickly to fix them and get this grand, 85-year-old lady under way again.

Most of the children are asleep as we roll back into Christchurch. Maybe they are dreaming of playing in the snow, perhaps some of them have visions of driving a steam train.

Case notes

Mainline Steam Trust plans two more Steam to the Pass trips on Sunday, July 21 and Sunday, August 18.

Cost: Adults $85, children $65

Book with Tranz Scenic's Christchurch office, ph (03) 341 2588

A weekend trip from Christchurch to Greymouth is scheduled on August 10 and 11.

Mainline Steam Trust runs regular excursions in the North and South Islands.

Email: mainlinesteam@clear.net.nz

Booking information is available from the Pumphouse, Auckland, phone (09) 489 8360 or 0800 462 978 (0800 Go By Steam)

Terry's Train Trax