Steam still carrying up the Khyber

An erratic scenic rail service in the heights of the Khyber Pass in Pakistan recalls the heyday of the British empire as JILL WORRALL reports.

When the British decided last century that a rail link through the Khyber Pass would be useful for strategic purposes, they ran into a major problem.

The line would have to pass through tribal territory, land where the laws of the local Pushtun tribes held sway rather than those of the British Raj.

Technically, this area that stretched along the border with Afghanistan was still part of the British
empire, but after decades of fruitless attempts to bring the fiercely independent Pushtun people under
control, the British had decided to compromise.

The Pushtuns were left, mostly, to look after themselves.

So before work on the railway line could begin, the Pushtuns had to agree to it. At first they were not
keen on this British intrusion into their territory, but legend has it that the clincher came when a British
engineer pointed out that the train would have to travel slowly, making it an easy target for raiding
parties.

Also, people who lived near the line would be allowed to travel free.

Work on the railway took about five years to complete, and the first train ran about 1925.

Today, following the 1948 partition of the Indian subcontinent, the line lies in Pakistan's North-West
Frontier province and is still regarded by train buffs as a major feat of engineering.

Over a 30km stretch alone there are 34 tunnels and 92 bridges. At the Changai Spur, the line climbs
130m in less than 1.5km. Four reversing stations are needed for the train.

From the 1920s to the mid-80s, trains made regular journeys through the barren, almost lunar landscape
of the Khyber. At points along the track cliffs stretch up to 3000m above the line.

But in 1985, after the Russian invasion of Afghanistan, the trains were stopped. (There is a
rumour that the engines pulled carriages loaded with ammunition up to the border during the war).

One of the world's greatest train journeys was at an end.

But just a few years ago a travel firm in Peshawar began sponsoring steam train excursions for tourists as far as Landi Kotal, one of the last villages before the top of the pass.

The trains run once every few months and the schedule is erratic.

While I was on a bus journey up the pass this year, a belch of smoke behind a ridge announced that I
had struck it lucky - it was excursion day.

The carriages at Landi Kotal were sandwiched between two 1920s steam engines, some of the
last in operation in Pakistan. Two are needed to move the small train up the steep gradient.

The tourists had been recalled to their carriages for the trip back to Peshawar. Also on board were
20 railway workers (in case emergency repairs were needed) and 50 armed guards to ensure the safe
passage of the train.

Local sightseers were out in their hundreds. When we began taking photographs of the engine,
dozens of youngsters swarmed over it.

The engine driver and fireman appeared at the cab doorway and invited two of us up. Somewhere
behind I could hear our armed guard saying it was time to go, but I chose not to hear.

We were installed on the two seats in the cab, then offered tea. The engine driver opened the firebox
door and there was a saucepan silhouetted against the incandescent glow. He poured out a cup of the
hottest, smokiest tea this side of the Himalayas.

Would madam like to go for a ride? he asked. Was Imran Khan a cricketer?

The beret of our Khyber Rifle guard appeared in the doorway, followed by a full beard of hennaed hair
and the barrel of a Kalashnikov rifle.

You must get down now. I started to say no ... and remembered he was armed with an automatic
assault weapon and all I had was an enamel cup.

The train backed down the line without us. The engine was still smothered in beaming boys and the
stationmaster was running alongside ineffectually trying to prise them off.

CASENOTES:

Getting there: Pakistan is on several international air routes.

Costs: A three-week tour ex New Zealand with Silk Road Adventures, including a visit to the
Khyber Pass, starts at $NZ6000.

Safety: Most of Pakistan is safe for tourists.

Food: Similar to northern India. Excellent curries.

Culture: Pakistan is a Muslim country. Women should wear loose, non-revealing clothing.

Shopping: Superb carpets, textiles, embroidery, precious stones, brassware.