Staying at the Chateau Tongariro in National Park

Sun bursts over Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Ruapehu. Photo / Getty Images

Eli Orzessek checks in to the Chateau Tongariro in National Park.

Getting there: My tour group arrived at National Park station from Whanganui on a chartered vintage 1940s train. From the station, the Chateau was a short bus ride away.

Check-in experience: Walking into the Chateau for the first time is a real experience, from the lobby to the classy bar/high tea area where a pianist was tinkling away. Staff had set up a table at the rear of the hotel to hand out key cards to the 60 or so people in our group.

Room: On the third floor of the Te Heu Heu Suite, to the left of the building. It was elegantly decorated with vintage furniture and 1920s-style art. There was even a card welcoming me back to the Chateau — I was impressed that they seemed to know I had once stayed there as a baby, how's that for service?

What's so good about this place? It's a bucket list place to stay for many New Zealanders. It's historic, romantic — and even a little bit haunted, they say. Plus, it's right in the heart of Tongariro National Park, with plenty to explore.

And the bad? From what I've read online, not all of the rooms are as good as the one I stayed in — particularly those in the basement.

What's in the neighbourhood? Tongariro National Park of course. Obviously if you're there in winter, it's all about the snow, but as I stayed in late summer, I enjoyed trying out the nearby walking tracks. The two-hour round trip to the Taranaki Falls is definitely worth the effort.

Toiletries: Forest and Bird shampoo, conditioner, body wash and body balm.

Food and drink: We had a special buffet dinner set up in the basement and it was excellent. When I tried to get a cocktail later, I was a little disappointed the bartender didn't seem to know what an Old Fashioned was. Not a good look for an "old fashioned" hotel like this.

The bed: King size and a nice level of firmness. I slept really well.

A room with a view? Though the mountains were a bit hidden by clouds, I had views out over native bush which was very pleasant.

Bathroom: A marble affair with a bathtub and shower. The water pressure was very good.
Free Wi-Fi? Yes and it was perfectly adequate.

Noise: Occasionally I heard a few murmurings from other rooms, but nothing too annoying.

Exercise facilities: There's a small gym with a few machines, but you simply must check out the bizarre "plunge pool" in the basement. It has to be seen to be believed. There's also a sauna, nice after a lot of walking.

Perfect for: History buffs, nostalgic New Zealanders, ski bunnies.