Hotel Shiragiku, Beppu, Oita Prefecture, Japan. Photo / Supplied
Shoba Pillai checks into Hotel Shiragiku, Beppu, Oita Prefecture, Japan.
Getting there: Domestic flight to Oita, then taxi pick-up.
Check-in experience: Very easy and pleasant. The front desk staff were extremely welcoming. I did find it a little odd that the men managed the check in while a small, older woman handled our luggage from the taxi. Then a young girl in a kimono trundled us up to our rooms, with luggage in tow. She spoke no English so there was plenty of hand-gesturing when I had to ask where my bed was.
Location: In the centre of Beppu, just a few minutes from the train station. Close proximity to Beppu Park, the waterfront and a few sightseeing spots.
Room and view: My room was on the seventh floor and overlooked the hotel's large carpark and neighbouring streets. On a clear day, the views extended to the bay and surrounding mountains. The room was spacious and tidy, set up in a traditional Japanese way with a low table, floor cushions and seats (with no legs) so you're essentially sitting on the floor. The room had large windows with bamboo paper screens in place of curtains. No carpet in sight, traditional tatami mats (made of straw) covered the floor which meant going barefoot was encouraged for cleanliness.
Bathroom: Small and knooky, with three separate spaces — the shower, toilet and vanity area. I could have a sit-down shower (a small stool was provided) or stand in a rickety old bath, which was not in the best condition.
Toiletries: A basic range of face and body wash, shampoo and conditioner, which didn't feel that luxurious. And the usual hotel amenities.
The bed: As this was a traditional ryokan room, the Japanese-style bed was set up while I was at dinner. A thin futon mattress — laid out on the floor — was made up with a soft duvet and a hard-beaded pillow, which I can only assume had therapeutic value. It was fun to sleep on the floor, but wasn't that comfortable for a body used to a softer bed. It was also a single-sized bed, so on-the-spot rotations were aplenty.
Beppu is a thermal resort town and this hotel offers both indoor and outdoor hot spring baths (onsens) for hotel guests to share. If you're too modest to bathe in the buff with others, you can opt for rooms with their own private onsen. There's also a good souvenir shop with all kinds of regional treats, a spa offering beauty treatments and massage, and a traditional Japanese garden.
Wi-Fi: Free, and was pretty good — sufficient for surfing, not great for uploading pictures.
Entertainment: The room had a small TV with only Japanese channels. Noise: Quite noisy. I could hear the traffic noises from the road below throughout the night, and talking from the neighbouring room.
Food and drink: No mini bar, only water offered in the room. The hotel has two Japanese restaurants, a Western-style fine-dining restaurant and a cafe serving up "good" coffee and baked treats. We didn't dine at the hotel's restaurants, but it looked very impressive. As did the room service option, where guests can enjoy typical Japanese dishes or the specialties from the region, in the comfort of their own rooms. Breakfast was a buffet of Western and Japanese options, I chose the latter with a meal of rice, salmon, pickled vegetables, seaweed, tofu and an outrageously sticky fermented soybean condiment called natto.
What's in the neighbourhood? A mix of residential and commercial properties. Beppu Park is a few minutes' walk, as is the train station. There is a cafe and a few shops in the area but a short stroll towards the city centre offers restaurants and entertainment spots, including karaoke bars and clubs.
What's so good about this place? Experiencing a traditional ryokan and the onsens were pretty special.
And the novelty of having breakfast after a good hot soak, wearing only the traditional yukata (robe) and Japanese sandals.
And the bad: The hotel has seen better days, it's in need of a spruce up. The exterior of the building looked a bit grim with its big grey concrete walls — the lovely service made up for this rather unwelcoming entrance though. My room felt a bit tired and not that clean, especially by Japanese standards.
Perfect for: I was told that this is one of the best hotels in Beppu, so if you're looking for something central and to indulge in the onsen experience, with fantastic local food on the side, this is a good choice.
The verdict: The hotel has a lot to offer and with a bit of refresh, it'd be a great spot to delve into a truly unique Japanese hot springs experience.