What it’s like to stay in London’s multibillion-dollar Raffles at The OWO Hotel - where Churchill won the war, by Katie Riley.
At The Guards Bar in the Raffles London at The OWO, I gaze out the window across the street to the Queen’s guards, standing sentry at the official entrance to Buckingham Palace. Inside the aptly named bar, I sip on a martini (shaken, not stirred). It’s only appropriate, given that the building in which I’m currently staying inspired Ian Fleming to write the Bond novels. That story is one of the many historical connections to London’s most prestigious and luxurious hotel. I was quickly discovering that a stay at the Raffles OWO was no ordinary experience.
Since opening in September 2023, the Raffles London at The OWO (Old War Office) has garnered an astonishing list of accolades. Condé Nast called it “the most dazzling hotel to open in London this century” and Time magazine recently added the hotel to its “World’s Greatest Places” list.
I checked in for two nights to see if the acclaimed hotel was truly worth the hype.
Once Churchill’s HQ, Raffles London at The OWO is now a masterpiece of luxury. Photo / Raffles London
Located in Whitehall, opposite the Buckingham Palace Horse Guards, the Raffles at The OWO occupies a Grade II listed Edwardian Baroque style building a stone’s throw from Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Downing Street. Constructed in 1906, the current building housed the former offices of the British Naval Intelligence and the RAF; the building played a significant role in both world wars and is the exact location where Chief of the Imperial General Staff Alan Brooke helped Sir Winston Churchill plan the Allied victory over Hitler.
The OWO’s transformation into a hotel took eight years and cost nearly NZ$3 billion. Photo / Raffles London
As if that pedigree is not impressive enough, the formation of MI5 and MI6, Britain’s Secret Intelligence Service, took place in the building’s basement in 1907, and the novelist Ian Fleming was inspired to write the James Bond books while serving as a Naval Intelligence Officer in the building.
The transformation from a former government building to an ultra-luxe hotel began in 2016, when it was acquired by London’s Hinduja Group, who brokered a 250-year lease with the Ministry of Defence. After embarking on an eight-year, nearly NZ$3 billion restoration, the hotel opened its doors in September 2023.
Entering the reception, I encountered a grand staircase spanning several floors, lit by a double-height Murano glass chandelier, and miles of marble balustrades, including a balcony I would later learn was the location of some of Churchill’s famous speeches. With such a greeting, it was hard not to audibly gasp at the sheer grandeur of the place; it would be the first in a series of jaw-dropping moments during my stay.
After an offer of a hot towel and a glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne, I was escorted to my room, marvelling at the details of the hotel along the way—the 3.5m-wide hallways with original mosaic tiles, the velvet draperies decorated with buttons identical to the Queen’s horse guards, and the historically accurate lighting fixtures. The hotel’s 120 rooms, including 39 suites, were designed by the late Thierry Despont, who worked on the restoration of the Statue of Liberty, and hotel projects like the Plaza in New York and the Ritz in Paris.
My room, the Westminster Suite, had a bird’s-eye view of the Horse Guards, and was cloaked in soft colours and silk furnishings. A powder room comprised one of two marble-clad bathrooms, with the second ensuite bathroom furnished with a soaking tub, rain shower, and heated toilet. Despite the dedication to historic details, it was one of the most tech-forward rooms I have encountered. Drapes, lighting and room temp are controlled via iPad, as is communications with guest services, dining, and the renowned Raffles butler service.
The hotel’s 120 rooms were designed by Thierry Despont, who restored the Statue of Liberty. Photo / Raffles London
The Raffles at The OWO includes a staggering nine restaurants on the propety. Three are in partnership with Mauro Colagreco, the master chef behind France’s three Michelin-starred Mirazur restaurant. The signature restaurant, Mauro by Mauro Colagreco, is a tasting menu experience showcasing the best of England’s produce, while Mauro’s table offers private dining with a chef’s kitchen; Saison, is the elegant casual restaurant with a Mediterranean-inspired menu.
I enjoyed dinner at Saison, the menu consisting of classic dishes like duck breast and sole meunière, as well as a rotisserie menu of hand-carved chicken and steak; my Hereford T-bone was butter soft and perfectly seasoned. The only element rivalling the decadent cuisine was the magnificent surroundings. With a glass dome, double-height ceilings and a specular hand-painted mural, the restaurant’s environs feel like dining in an enchanted garden.
In addition to Chef Colagreco’s restaurants, there is the Parisian Café Lapérouse, The Drawing Room, Paper Moon, and the forthcoming Langosteria. Kioku by Endo is a Japanese-inspired restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Endo Kazutoshi. Located on the roof of the hotel with panoramic views of Whitehall, the restaurant possesses the largest collection of sake outside Japan.
Guests can dine at nine restaurants, including three by Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco. Photo / Raffles London
For Bond fans, it doesn’t get any better than The Spy Bar, the hotel’s subterranean speakeasy bar and lounge. Located two floors below the main level, it is accessed by an unassuming door simply marked “007″. Behind closed doors, one encounters a vintage desk, tape recording equipment, a telephone and typewriter. After gaining your “spy credentials”, or perhaps just a confirmed reservation, another door leads into a dimly lit speakeasy that evokes all the glamour and mystery one would expect from a bar located in the exact space where MI6 was established. The Spy Bar is so exclusive there is no photography allowed. But for anyone hoping to get a glimpse of an actual Aston Martin, you won’t be disappointed.
The Spy Bar, hidden two floors underground, occupies the space where MI6 was formed. Photo / Raffles London
The next day I took a historical tour, offered complimentary for guests. The tour goes behind the scenes, giving detailed information of the building’s distinctive history, restoration process, and often includes a peek at the Heritage suites. Stepping into the Churchill Suite, a soaring wood-panelled space that had once been the office of Sir Winston Churchill, I’m reminded yet again that this is no ordinary hotel.
The Winston Churchill Suite includes the wartime leader’s original wood-panelled office. Photo / Raffles London
Though London’s best attractions are mere steps from the hotel’s doors, it wasn’t enough to tempt me to leave. And that is the great dilemma of a stay at the Raffles OWO. With scores of dining options, a full menu of fitness and wellness offerings, and bespoke experiences, one is happy to remain ensconced for days.
The Raffles OWO boasts a 20m swimming pool with fireplaces and relaxation areas. Photo / Raffles London
The hotel’s 20m swimming pool beckoned, complete with double-height ceilings, fireplaces and relaxation spaces. After a swim, I headed upstairs to the Guerlain Spa. Spanning four floors, the spa houses nine treatment rooms, all ensuite. My therapist Cassie gave me a sublime massage that left me sleepy and relaxed, so I retreated to the confines of my suite to reflect on what had been a most indulgent stay.
The Guerlain Spa, across four floors, features nine luxurious treatment rooms. Photo / Raffles London
The Raffles London at The OWO is not simply an exceptional hotel with a serious pedigree. After a few hours spent at the hotel, one gains the sense that it’s an honor to lay your head in such an historic and illustrious place. Upon checkout, one leaves not only with the rejuvenation of a restful break, but the knowledge you’ve been uniquely immersed in history. And that is an astonishing thing indeed.
Checklist
LONDON
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to London Heathrow Airport with one stopover with multiple airlines, including Cathay Pacific, Qatar, Emirates and Singapore Airlines.
