Spellbound by a slice of paradise

By SARAH NEALON

Kentros was wearing an All Black jersey and when he saw me he couldn't stop grinning.

"Do you like my shirt?" he asked enthusiastically.

"I have a friend who has been to Auckland and he gave it to me."

"It's very nice," I assured him.

Welcome to Spetses, a Greek isle where white cottages line the streets and eccentric hoteliers dress up for their guests.

Kentros, aged 39, runs a hotel and bookings office with his older brother Apostolos.

This little island of the Sadonic group, with its fishing boats, waterfront cafes and mopeds that speed along the narrow streets - no cars allowed - is less than a couple of hours by hydrofoil from Piraeus, itself just a 20-minute train trip from Athens.

The more impoverished, such as fellow Kiwi backpacker Rachel and I, can opt for the slower, cheaper ferry and lie about in the sun up on the top deck.

The fact that it was the tail-end of summer when I visited the island added to its charm, for the tourist crowds had all but disappeared. And, of course, I was also mesmerised by the sheer beauty of this sleepy slice of paradise.

The tourists were mainly young families and backpackers, cameras at the ready, for we all felt as if we were walking about on one giant postcard.

Soon after we'd arrived we were out and about, meandering along the waterfront, marvelling at the cottages with their blue-and-green window shutters, stumbling upon a pebbled beach and leaping into the clear water for a swim.

Then it was back to the hotel for the compulsory siesta until grumbling tummies drove us down to the waterfront cafes for some dinner.

Siesta hadn't really finished and we were the only customers at our restaurant for the next hour.

I ordered a salad topped by a hunky chunk of feta. To wash it down, I chose Ouzo which, in retrospect, wasn't such a good idea, even when leavened with a splash of lemonade.

The following day, at Kentros' suggestion, we hired mountain bikes to cycle around the island. "There are some lovely beaches on the west coast," he told us.

Unfortunately, it was a particularly hot day and, with limited water supplies, we turned back half-way.

However, cycling on the mostly-flat road was a great way to take in the scenery.

That night we visited the island's most popular bar where they played loud Greek pop music and served lethal rum and cokes.

Perhaps that is why we awoke late the next day then spent our remaining time at tourist shops buying things that weren't in our backpacker's budget.