It's better to focus on quality rather than quantity. Prioritise whether you want to see palaces, museums, shop, take in a show, or eat. Getting around is easy ... you can walk, ride the subway or taxi to your chosen locations.
THE TOWER: Want a viewpoint? The N Seoul Tower (officially YTN Seoul Tower but known as Namsan Tower or Seoul Tower) marks the highest point in Seoul. Go to the observation tower or enjoy the view from the ground and people-watch.
PALACES: Seoul has five royal palaces but most popular is Gyeongbokgung Palace where you can watch the colourful changing of the guards. The palace is only 35 per cent of what was originally built because it was damaged during Japanese rule.
SHOPPING MALLS: Rising like a starship out of a demolished arena, Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (DDP) certainly has a presence. Close by is Goodmorning City mall and Lotte department store.
MARKETS: Insadong traditional market has wonderful artisan offerings as well as great places to eat. Also popular is the Namdaemun Market, where the locals go to buy.
MAKING UP: Korea has a reputation for its great prices and huge selection of makeup and cosmetics. Often, there are more makeup shops in streets than anything else. Plus each purchase between 30,000 and 2,000,000 won is eligible for a tax refund at the airport (ask for the paperwork at time of purchase.)
EAT: Try the Korean favourite, chicken ginseng soup. Some restaurants make this dish only. Buffet food courts are available on the top levels of shopping malls. And the Korean sweets are lovely, less sugary than ours and smaller in size.
COFFEE SHOPS: Thanks to the presence of 35,000 military personnel in the US base in Seoul, there are lots of coffee shops and also green tea cafes, all popular places to hang out for the young, hip South Koreans. The most popular coffee is the Americano, kind of like a long, long black. Try the green tea icecream - it's the perfect pick-me-up after an hour or two of sightseeing.
MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES: So many ... if these are your happy places, prioritise your visit around these. The contents stretch back over the dynasties and English-speaking tour guides add their depth of knowledge. The National Museum (koreanhero.net) is a good starting point for an overview Korea's history and etiquette.
ARCHITECTURE: Wander historic Bukchon Hanok Village and marvel at the tiled roofs and solid wooden doors. Boutique shops have some great offerings, too.
SHOW: Settle in for 90 minutes of entertainment with the Nanta performance in Myeongdong (you can go shopping here afterwards). It's a hilarious mix of mime, drumming, breakdance/acrobatics and some skilful juggling of knives in a restaurant setting. Clever and funny. The show has been running for 15 years.
CYCLE: You can hire a bike at Yeouido Park and cycle the riverside. In a city of 10.49 million you can still get out and ride.
JUST WALK: Travelling on foot, there's so much to look at and it's easy enough to ask for directions in English in this city that feels so safe. Worst possible scenario if you feel lost? Catch a taxi or use the subway to get back to your accommodation.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Korean Air flies Auckland to Seoul, daily from December 15 to March 1, and up to five times a week at other times.
The writer travelled courtesy of Korean Air.
