Sober tourism is gaining traction as travellers seek enriching experiences sans alcohol. Photo / 123rf
Sober tourism is on the rise, with many advocates saying abstinence will enrich your travel experiences, writes Amy Snook
Amy Snook knows more about wine than your average traveller. Originally from California, she now lives in the Douro Valley of Portugal, her partner works in the wine industry, and she has visited 47 countries, many of which have celebrated viticulture. But seven years ago, on a trip to Mendoza, a winemaking region in the foothills of Argentina’s Andes Mountains, she opted to abstain from drinking alcohol, a decision she would repeat in future travels.
“It’s such a long flight to Argentina, and I was only there for 10 days,” said Snook, 34, a publishing professional. “I’m aware of how alcohol affects me, and I chose to prioritise feeling amazing every day of the trip over dealing with a hangover.”
During her visit, Snook cycled between vineyards, revelled in breathtaking scenery, relaxed with spa treatments and engaged with sommeliers and winemakers, coming away with a new appreciation for sustainable and regenerative agriculture.
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“The obvious question when you tell someone that you aren’t drinking is, ‘Out of all the places you could go, why travel to wine country’?” she said. “But to me, it makes perfect sense because these regions offer all the perks of luxury travel — wellness amenities, beautiful landscapes and fine dining.”
With 41 per cent of Americans seeking to reduce their alcohol intake, according to a consumer sentiment study released in January by NCSolutions, Snook’s experience is part of a larger trend: the rise of sober-curious or mindful drinking. While sober travel is hardly a new concept, its popularity is surging to new heights — particularly among younger generations — and forcing a reckoning in the wine industry. The 2024 State of the US Wine Industry report, an annual forecast of market conditions and trends written by wine-business analyst Rob McMillan, found 52 per cent of consumers aged 21-34 believe consuming alcohol, even in moderation, is bad for your health.
This trend is reshaping travel to world-class wine destinations like Sonoma County in California, as well as Tuscany in Italy, and Mendoza. Blessed with temperate climates, extended growing seasons, fertile soils, rich histories and breathtaking vistas, these renowned wine locales are expanding their offerings to attract drinkers and non-drinkers.
Here are some of the restaurants, tour groups and wineries in those regions that are reinventing the travel experience to be more inclusive of the sober-curious.
If wine is a true expression of the land, embodying the unique characteristics of its soil, weather and the meticulous craftsmanship of those who cultivate it, can you still forge that connection without drinking?
At Cyrus, a Michelin-starred fine-dining destination in Geyserville, California, the answer is a resounding yes. Sonoma County, double the size of neighbouring Napa, made conscious decisions to protect and diversify its land use, ensuring grapes as well as agricultural crops were grown. Douglas Keane, Cyrus’ owner and chef, highlights the local harvest by working with small farms and purveyors to source his ingredients. Crosnes — a Chinese artichoke — from Alexander Valley Vineyards’ gardens, yuzu and finger limes from citrus grower David Levine, and cheese from Andante Dairy have all ended up on Cyrus’ menu.
Also on the menu: Kally, an alcohol-free wine alternative produced with house-made organic verjuice and sourced from Northern California. Served at more than 15 other Michelin-starred restaurants, Kally’s bottles include Early Chardonnay, which is crisp, bright and changes flavour and aroma as it moves across the palate, similar to a fine wine. A tart, vibrant Golden Sparkler has notes of jasmine and citrus, and a floral, fruity Rosé Sparkler offers hints of strawberry and hibiscus.
“Chefs and sommeliers are interested in having precise non-alcoholic pairings. Their food was created to be prepared with sophisticated drinks, not just sparkling water,” said Scott Mitic, who created the beverage along with his wife, Katie.
Customers, too, appreciate having a choice, he said, noting that many of Kally’s most loyal drinkers are wine enthusiasts. “This is not an abstinence movement; it is a moderation movement,” he said.
Cyrus Schultz, wine director and sommelier at Cyrus, aims to create drinks that make sober guests feel just as special, if not more, than those indulging in traditional wine pairings. His non-alcoholic creations include the Rosé Champagne, an effervescent blend of coconut, white sesame, cherry blossom and lime, and the Apple Martini, a sweet, herbaceous concoction of pink lady apple, fennel and mint olive oil.
“The intention is never to mimic alcohol products, but to construct the pairings similarly to how a chef looks at a menu — different textures, temperatures and flavour profiles,” Schultz said.
These efforts are not limited to one restaurant. Chris Vomvolakis, senior manager of consumer public relations at Sonoma County Tourism, said bars, restaurants and wineries across the region were recognising that it’s not all about wine.
The town of Healdsburg recently created the Mocktail Trail with eight participating restaurants, and Meadowcroft Wines in the town of Sonoma curated a flight of original zero-proof cocktails. David Messerli, Meadowcroft’s marketing and strategy director, said the winery encouraged guests “to discern aromas, flavours and nuances, much like they would with wine”.
“For those opting out of alcohol, we felt there was more we could do,” he said. “People have various reasons for abstaining from alcohol, and no one should feel excluded because of it.”
Mendoza, renowned for its malbec wines and stunning Andean landscapes, is no stranger to luxury accoutrements, but sober guests? That is a newer phenomenon. “We have definitely noticed an increase in guests seeking non-alcoholic travel options in recent years,” said Victoria Stiles, sales manager at Cavas Wine Lodge, a luxury 18-room hotel set amid a 22ha vineyard.
At Cavas, wine may be the main attraction, but guests can book spa treatments using vine and grapeseed extracts, join yoga sessions on the private terrace overlooking the Andes and vineyards, and take full-day hiking excursions to Aconcagua Provincial Park, a rugged, mountainous destination that is home to Mt Aconcagua, South America’s highest peak.
Wild Terrains, a certified B-Corp travel company specialising in experiences for women, has planned three days of a 10-day Argentina tour to be sober-inclusive in Mendoza. Built around women-owned businesses, stops include boutique lodging at Entre Cielos, horseback riding in the Andean foothills, home-cooked asado at Estancia Los Chulengos, and a private dining experience at Michelin-starred Zonda Cocina de Paisaje. The meal offers special mocktail pairings with distinct flavours like lemon verbena, beets and burro, a herb used to make digestive teas and infusions.
“In Mendoza, our trip centres on talented female winemakers who are pushing boundaries in a historically male-dominated industry,” said Lauren Bates, founder of Wild Terrains. “While these experiences include wine tastings, we want sober travellers to feel intentionally included even if they are skipping the wine tasting.”
Wine tastings epitomise indulgence, especially immersed in the heart of Tuscany, when visitors can savour glass after glass of Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Salvatore Ferragamo jnr, CEO of the Il Borro wine estate and grandson of the fashion house’s founder, encourages guests to find other ways to indulge.
“The olive harvests in the autumn produce the region’s spicy, piquant ‘green gold’,” Ferragamo said.
Il Borro, in Tuscany’s Valdarno, is a meticulously restored medieval village that includes 58 suites, three vacation villas, two restaurants, stables, working vineyards and olive groves. Olive oil production began in 1996, following the recovery of varieties like Frantoio, Moraiolo and Leccino that had long been neglected. Now, after touring some 32ha of organic groves, guests can engage in a tasting experience of two distinct oils, one full-bodied with floral, fruity and grassy aromas, the other robust, peppery and dark.
Another option, Tuscan Organic Tours, offers immersive day-long experiences that delve into wine and oil, but also other rich agricultural offerings. Delicious tours with private transportation highlight tastes and flavours that include Pecorino di Pienza, one of the most renowned Italian cheeses, saffron and fresh pastas. The tours include visits to organic farms, lunches, tastings, and opportunities to participate in cheese-making and saffron harvesting.
This article originally appeared in the New York Times
Written by: Amy Snook
©2024 THE NEW YORK TIMES
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