Venetia Sherson discovers the true worth of hospitality Capital payback in Rarotonga.
A few years back, a team of British academics measured the economic value of a smile based on the premise that smiles are social currency people will pay money to receive.
They calculated each flash of the gnashers was worth one third of a British penny. A "genuine" smile (teeth, laugh lines and crinkly eyes) boosted the bottom line. Based on that calculation, if you smiled 300 times a day, you'd make a quid. For Brits, whose spirits are often duller than the sky above, the effort might outweigh the rewards. But in Rarotonga, where a surly face is as rare as a mute rooster, the dividends are real.
It's easy to get carried away in the South Pacific. A diet of splendid sunsets, carnival-coloured fish and cheerful ukuleles induces euphoria. "No part of the world exerts the same attractive power upon the visitor," wrote Robert Louis Stevenson in The Marquesas.
But the Cook Islands charm extends beyond its natural beauty. It has more to do with social capital, which is defined as goodwill, fellowship and trust.
Example: Two friends go for an early morning walk, well after the roosters start crowing, but before roadside stalls are open. They are accompanied by five dogs, but that's by the by. They pass a stall that will sell pareu (aka sarongs), and pawpaw. They have no cash, but crave pawpaw for breakfast. On the way back, the stall owner has taken up her post. "Take the fruit. Pay later, when you're passing," she says.