KEY POINTS:
Forget the shops, and forget the food. They're just bit players. From the moment you arrive in Singapore, as Samuel Coleridge said, there's water, water, everywhere ... and it plays a recurring role in Singapore life.
Ever since Sir Thomas Raffles landed in 1817, Singapore has been a major trading hub. The myriad cargo ships that bob on the Straits of Singapore crowd the horizon so much that they look like one long illuminated island at night.
It's even in the air. Although it was hard to leave the sleeper bed and excellent food in Qantas' first-class cabin, I relished walking out of the airport and being enveloped by that humid haze that makes you think, "Yes, I'm definitely in Asia."
Locals aren't so enthusiastic, and some combat the weather with ... yet more water. A walk down the retail mecca of Orchard Road revealed an outdoor 7-11 convenience stall dispatching a light spray from the edge of its canopy, providing a burst of coolness for customers. It's a fine idea, but really, as if there wasn't enough moisture in the air already.
Then there are the aquatic ideas you don't expect, such as dunking your legs in water in order to be eaten by eager fish. Happily, these fish merely eat the dead skin cells, making it a gentle (if unusual) form of exfoliation.
The Fish Spa, attached to Underwater World on Sentosa Island, does a busy trade in this novelty spa treatment, which has been used in Europe since the 1950s to treat skin problems.
Submitting to the ministrations of the small Turkish fish (known as the doctor fish) is easy: our group sat on the edge of a small pool, immersed feet and calves, and waited. The Jaws theme began playing in my mind.
What nothing prepares you for is the tickling. Sceptical men and women were reduced to shrieking school kids in an instant as teeth ever-so-gently scraped our legs. Most of the women in our group had been pedicured by the Shangri-La's spa team the day before, so our feet were fairly smooth. But when the men put their feet in, it was like an all-you-can-eat restaurant had opened its doors.
We decided not to ask if the fish were later served up for dinner.
Water also plays a big part in giving the highly populated state plenty of outdoor space. The MacRitchie Reservoir area is also a park with five walking trails; one trail boasts a tree-top suspension bridge where you can wander past the canopy, look for a black-bearded dragon (yes, really), and escape from the concrete jungle.
Or, if exercising mind over matter sounds like fun, you can sample micro-filtered reclaimed water at a treatment plant. The NEWater has been purified and treated using microfiltration and UV technology. The NEWater website is at pains to point out studies that show it's at least as good as catchment water, however, they've probably got an uphill PR battle on their hands.
Although there are plans to blend NEWater with reservoir water, it's currently used more for industry and in commercial buildings. The Shangri-La Hotel, where we stayed, uses the water as part of its air conditioning system. In fact, almost the only reason I wanted to leave the hotel's elegant Valley Wing was to escape the efficient artificial coolness. Otherwise, I wasn't going anywhere.
From the attentive service that never became cloying, to pure Egyptian cotton sheets, to the opulent yet understated lobby and champagne bar, this was luxury that didn't feel the need to shout about it.
Besides, the food was doing all the talking. Breakfast at The Line, the Shangri-La's all-day restaurant, was a jaw-dropping, all-you-can-eat affair. The Line features 16 "theatre kitchens" where you tell the chefs what you want, and watch them cook it in front of you.
The Indian counter was a little quiet at just 9am, but there was plenty of competition for moreish dim sum treats stuffed with shredded meat or red bean paste.
Noodle soups filled our table, with juices and fruit, sashimi, grilled meats, and scrambled eggs. The dessert counter was left well alone, although talk of a metre-high chocolate fountain set taste buds racing anew.
Then, half an hour later, it was time for morning tea. The ebullient executive sous chef, Raymond Yin, whipped up nonya laksa and Singapore chilli crab, a dish he's been cooking for around 30 years, but insists he still loves it. "If you come to Singapore and don't have chilli crab, you haven't been to Singapore."
When venturing out in this cuisine wonderland, search out food courts and their array of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Peranakan (combining Malay and Chinese) dishes.
In the early 1900s, the low-slung, open-air Maxwell Food Court served as a market and food centre. It's still a bustling Chinatown spot with a steady throughput of Singaporeans.
I reluctantly bypassed stalls selling delicious-looking laksa, gyoza and Indian food, the queasy result of yesterday's gluttony. The Chinese man at Somerset Delicacies managed to look both put out and disdainful when I explained I only wanted rice noodles, gravy and vegetables. No seafood, thank you. Or spine meat soup.
It was a relief to duck back out to the street, where the green leaves of the rain tree were drooping. This tree is a great weather indicator: the thick green leaves point upwards when the sun shines, soaking up the heat. If the leaves are somewhere in between, head for shelter.
I headed for the Yixing Xuan Teahouse, in an old shop house on the fringe of Chinatown. Unlike Japan's ceremonial approach to taking tea, the Chinese use tea as an informal social occasion.
When Queen Lizzy visited this teahouse in 1991, she opted for a light oolong tea, a mixture of green and black leaves. I can recommend the white tea: it has a light, roasted taste. The drinking process is done in stages, allowing for a wine-like appreciation of the brew. Do note, though, that spitting tea out is likely to cause offence.
There's no shortage of places to drink at night, but dallying at a restaurant or bar along Clarke Quay or Boat Quay is a fine start. Riverside seats are quickly snapped up, but they're worth the wait to relax into the festival-like atmosphere - and bathe in the water all around.
GETTING THERE
Qantas has regular flights from Auckland to Sydney and from Sydney to Singapore. See www.qantas.com for details.
In May Qantas reopened its first-class lounge at Sydney Airport after an extensive upgrade. It now offers a restaurant, library, spa treatments, work suites, and a concierge service.
GETTING AROUND
Taxis and the MRT subway system are inexpensive and efficient. Save your energy for short walks between shops or attractions, as the humidity can be exhausting.
WHERE TO STAY
Shangri-La Hotel, Orange Grove Road, Singapore. The Valley Wing's private entrance, off Anderson Road, is two minutes' walk away from the western end of Orchard Road. A deluxe room costs S$875 ($740), a one-bedroom suite S$1610, or a deluxe suite S$1780. See www.shangri-la.com
WHERE TO EAT
The Line, Shangri-La Hotel. Open to public and guests. Maxwell Food Court, cnr South Bridge and Maxwell Rds, Chinatown.
WHAT TO DO
Fish Reflexology at Underwater World, Sentosa Island. Open daily 10am-7pm (last appointment 6.15pm). To book, ph: 6279 9229.
MacRitchie Reservoir Park, enter from Thomson or Lornie Rds. Check ,a href="www.nparks.gov.sg">www.nparks.govt.sg for location and opening times.
NEWater plant, Koh Sek Lim Rd. See www.pub.gov.sg/NEWater for details.
Yixing Xuan Teahouse, No. 30/32 Tanjong Pagar Road, Singapore. Book ahead for tea appreciation classes. www.yixingxuan-teahouse.com
* Mary de Ruyter travelled to Singapore with Qantas, and stayed at the Shangri-La Singapore and Sydney.
