Yu Garden is a haven of peace in Shanghai. Photo / Getty Images
Yu Garden is a haven of peace in Shanghai. Photo / Getty Images
Tai chi? Uh-uh. Shereen Low visits a Chinese park to find that modern pensioners are all about the bass.
It's almost 9pm and a group of people are gathering in the middle of Xianxia Park in Shanghai's Changning District.
Taking off their jackets, they limber up with stretching exercises: twisting, tilting and turning. But this isn't a flash mob of youngsters showing off the latest break-dancing moves; instead, most of these movers and shakers are over 50.
Some locals use the nightly dance sessions as a means of keeping fit and nimble while socialising, but some of the single men and widowers see the dances as a step-up to courtship.
When the music starts blaring from an iPod hooked up to a portable speaker, everyone grabs a partner and starts to dance. The couples move in unison, swinging and swaying to music ranging from recognisable Western classical tunes to old-school Chinese tracks.
Even though I decline offers to join in, this is certainly an experience I'll never forget.
In the surrounding streets, late-night salons are still busy with customers, and the delicious smell of street food wafts from simple stalls. Only a few blocks away, shiny new buildings are a sign that Shanghai is a city that's changing daily.
Thanks to an economic boom, China's largest city is growing at an exciting rate. Flights now service the destination with greater frequency, so tourist numbers are also set to rise.
But despite all the new developments, the city's cultural core remains the same. For every fancy hair salon, there is a cheaper - and more basic - alternative next door, where $12 buys you a shampoo wash, cut, blow-dry, head and shoulder massage, a cup of tea and even ear wax removal (not for the sensitive).
Western practices are becoming more popular, but locals still follow a very traditional Chinese way of life.
Away from the tourist centres of the Bund, Nanjing Rd and Huaihai Rd, at People's Park in Huangpu paper flyers advertise eligible bachelors and bachelorettes. Parents are more than happy to "advertise" their child for a serious relationship at the Marriage Market, which takes place every Saturday and Sunday afternoon.
A group of people dancing in Fuxing Park in Shanghai. Photo / AP
The Chinese Government still operates strict internet censorship controls - social networking websites such as Facebook and Twitter are banned - so forget Instagram selfies and Facebook check-ins, and instead enjoy Shanghai the old-school way.
Start with the historical and beautiful Yu Garden, a haven of peace away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Built as a private garden in 1559, during the reign of Ming emperor Jiajing, it was declared a national monument in 1982. With stunning rock formations and intricate carvings, it's a must for any visitor.
Surrounded by traditional shikumen (stone gate) houses, the district of Xintiandi - which translates as "new heaven and earth" - was where the Communist Party of China first met in July 1921.
These homes have been redeveloped into an affluent area full of shops, eateries and bars, although history buffs can get their fill at the Museum of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party.
Likewise, the French Concession - the former settlement of the French in 1849 - has been turned into bars, restaurants and homes, frequented by expats and locals.
However, I choose to finish off my stay with a truly authentic Chinese massage experience at a local salon in the Changning district. This no-frills, hour-long treatment, complete with sparse decor, bright lighting and vigorous kneading and pummelling, costs just $15. I leave feeling relaxed and with a spring in my step.
It's fair to say that for all the changes taking place in Shanghai, plenty of traditions are worth preserving.
Nanjing Rd, Huangpu: One of Shanghai's most famous shopping streets, the 5.5km-long Nanjing Rd starts at the Bund in the east and continues past People's Square towards the Jing'an district. Designer stores such as Tiffany & Co, Prada and Louis Vuitton sit alongside European brands such as Zara and L'Occitane, and local shops selling souvenirs.
Hongqiao Pearl Market, Hongmei Lu 3721: Each floor in this Aladdin's Cave of goods specialises in certain products: clothes on the ground level, pearls on the second floor, the third tailored clothes and fake goods. If you're lucky, the sales assistant will take you through a hidden sliding facade, where you can find good quality copies of luxury handbags, watches and more - be prepared to haggle over the price.
Best eating
Jardin De Jade, Block A, 2558 Yan'an Rd West: Look beyond the grandiose interior, reminiscent of a flashy Las Vegas hotel, because the food on offer here is first class. The house speciality - xiaolongbao (steamed soup dumplings filled with pork and crabmeat) - and jasmine tea-smoked duck are simply divine.
Lost Heaven, 38 Gaoyou Rd, Xuhui: Serving tribal food inspired by the legendary Ancient Tea Horse Trail, which winds its way through the south-west province of Yunnan, Burma and Tibet, Lost Heaven is a gastronomic treat.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies daily from Auckland to Shanghai with a range of inflight products including Economy, Economy Skycouch, Premium Economy and Business Premier.
Accommodation: Peninsula Shanghai is located on the Bund and overlooks the famous Pudong skyline. The building was once the site of the state-run Friendship Store, which was only open to foreign tourists. The grand hotel harks back to Shanghai's glory days when the city was known as the Paris of the East.
