Seaside escape soothes the soul

By GERALDINE McMANUS*

It's a 90-minute drive from the centre of Auckland but feels like a million miles away. Golden sand dunes stretch in layers across the horizon. The sea glints aquamarine in the sunlight. The colours speak of summer.

It was one of those times, tired by the usual workload, when we asked, "Where can we go? Somewhere not too far, not too expensive and guaranteeing refreshment of spirit and soul?"

Mangawhai is a perfect driving distance from Auckland. Unfortunately, as the weekend progressed I came down with the flu - no wonder I had been tired - however nothing could dampen my enjoyment of the location.

Mangawhai Lodge bed and breakfast was the choice for several other Auckland city escapees on the same weekend. Sunday morning breakfast turned into a sociable affair with conversations ranging over topics from politics to travel destinations. It was such fun we idled over the meal like a lengthy long-table lunch in Italy.

The two-storey lodge sits on the rise at the top of Heather St in central Mangawhai. Once you arrive you can throw away the car keys. Most places are within strolling distance - the cafes, restaurants, the beach, estuary and golf course.

At first sight it's the wrap-around verandas with comfortable chairs to sit in and enjoy the day that switches on a holiday feeling. There is the hint of sand and summer that makes you want to grab a beach towel and head to the sands - no matter which season it is.

Once you have made your way up the curved driveway, climb the stairs inside the guesthouse and step on to the veranda - there it is - a spectacular vista filled with sea and sky.

My bedroom opened out to the veranda, with a small table and chairs ready to drop into or to have a private drink or breakfast if desired.

The large comforting beds invite visitors to flop down and read for hours.

Jeanette Forde turned the Heather St home into a B&B about five years ago. She has great enthusiasm for the area and knows where the best places are to eat out.

The first evening we visited the garden centre next door which has a great cafe. The cafe was brimming - it is wise to book. At the weekends, holiday houses and accommodation in the area fill up - so also do the eateries.

Forde says the lodge attracts mostly Aucklanders and golfers, with some international visitors finding their way along the coast on their travels to and from the Bay of Islands.

The championship golf course across the road is excellent and well known to golf enthusiasts. I hadn't taken the golf clubs this time - but they will be an essential piece of my luggage for my next visit.

The course is uncrowded and in that relaxed spirit I am sure a hole in one might not be too difficult - well, everyone can dream.

Once a year Mangawhai turns on a walking weekend, and I hit that weekend unknowingly. Most walks are escorted with a guide at the front and a tail-end Charlie.

Groups were snaking along the walkways and around the neighbourhood visiting gardens, the estuary, the bush and out to the bird sanctuary.

Diary Note for Mangawhai Lodge: Leave the watch and mobile phone in Auckland.

Take a couple of good books, hat and sun glasses.

Next time pack the golf clubs and walking shoes but, hey, only if I want to - they are non-essential.

It was worth getting out of bed for the Mangawhai Lodge breakfast - a substantial meal of fresh muesli, fresh fruit, yoghurt and cooked breakfast of the full works if desired.

The kitchen is next door to the dining rooms with aromas flowing through stimulating the appetite.

During the day, guests can use the kitchen for coffee or tea. Just helping oneself adds to the relaxed and friendly atmosphere.


Case notes


Where to find it

Mangawhai Lodge, 4 Heather St, Mangawhai Heads, Northland

Ph (09) 431 5311, fax (09) 431 5312

Accommodation

Five guest rooms all with private bathrooms and all rooms open to veranda.

Bed & breakfast $120 -$150 a person (double)

Special packages

Golfers' weekends; Golfers' midweek; Group of friends' weekend - special for whole house; Mid-winter Christmas

Getting there

By car, approximately 80 minutes' drive from Auck airport. Take Auckland SH1 via Orewa or SH16 via Helensville. Turn right at Te Hana about 10 minutes' drive after Wellsford. From Mangawhai continue on 5km to Mangawhai Heads. Turn right into Heather St - the lodge driveway is first on the right.

What to do

Swimming: five surf beaches within 15 minutes

Walking: including Mangawhai Cliff's walkway, harbour walks and beach walks.

Fishing: charter-boat fishing available.

Golf: at the Mangawhai Golf Course, 18-hole championship course, carts available. Golf Course is across the road from Mangawhai Lodge.

Access: lodge is two storeyed.

Smoking: outside on the veranda.


* Geraldine McManus was a paying guest at Mangawhai Lodge.


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