School's out for summer

By ANGIE BELCHER

You realise it's 'schoolies' don't you?" the travel agent said as we booked our holiday. "Schoolies," she repeated clearly, noticing that we had obviously missed the significance of what she was saying. We listened carefully as she enlightened us.

Schoolies is a Queensland phenomenon, a rite of passage which takes place at the closure of the Australian secondary school year.

It is the time when thousands of teenagers, driven by raging hormones and the promise of a six-week study break, head to the Gold Coast for non-stop party action.

We weren't young but we weren't going to let a "school activity" interfere with our planned trip. Besides, we were taking our children.

We arrived at Surfers Paradise and the partying had already begun. Huge noticeboards erected at key positions along the beachfront outlined the week's activities; beach sports, rock concerts and night club events, along with times and location maps. The air was electric.

Groups congregated on every corner. Packs of scantily clad girls patrolled the streets. It was definitely a case of the boys watch the girls and the girls watch the boys, until someone makes a move.

Our 18-year-old son, embarrassed to be associated with us, walked a good 10m behind wearing a silly grin on his face.

His father had the same, "I-think-I've-died-and-gone-to-heaven" look, but for the sake of diplomacy and peace kept his eyes firmly fixed ahead. I kept my 14-year-old daughter close.

She had already commented that it was looking like one huge party and she was ready to arrive uninvited.

Scores of teenagers hung from apartment balconies calling to one another. Others swaggered around the streets with that air of self-confidence and invincibility that only the young have. I confess to having a few momentary pangs of envy as I sat with my husband and watched the tender mating games taking place all around us.

Queenslanders are more than happy to help visitors. The Gold Coast has launched a walking information service known as Paradise Patrol.

These pairs of young people kitted out in bright blue and yellow outfits complete with beauty queen sashes, patrol the streets helping lost tourists and offering friendly advice.

Another team, this time scantily clad metre maids, spent their day wandering the streets topping up expired parking metres so visitors don't get parking fines.

For us, Surfers Paradise at Schoolies was not something to be avoided but something that was exciting and fun. It put a spring back into our somewhat jaded steps.

We had been warned that accommodation would be at a premium and limited.

"A wise traveller," the agent told me, "would book accommodation in advance."

Nevertheless we still found vacancy signs outside every fifth or sixth apartment block. Visitors wanting cheaper rates and who are prepared to take a risk, can delay booking until late in the evening when standby-rates apply.

We settled for Hillhaven Apartments, just a short drive away at Burleigh Heads. Close enough to the action at Surfers but far enough away to keep our two teenagers out of mischief. Here the pace was much less frenetic but every bit as exciting.

The area has a certain atmosphere. It is adrenaline pumping, testosterone loaded, and all action. At 4am it's daylight, people are walking, kayaking, cycling and surfing.

From Hillhaven, the views were spectacular. The tall buildings of Surfers Paradise fringe the horizon like a frill on a blue skirt.

The apartment's location at the base of the Heads lends itself to views of all the action, including surfers dodging dolphins and riding giant waves just metres below our balcony.

Accommodation at Burleigh Heads is plentiful, ranging from self-contained apartments and bed and breakfasts to a centrally placed motor camp just a stone's throw from the main beach.

The commercial area is busy yet has managed to retain a local flavour. It is laid-back as only an area frequented by surfers can be, and there is definitely no animosity towards visitors.A recently upgraded ocean-front pathway connects Burleigh Beach to the Burleigh Heads National Park.

The walkway around the headland is well worth an early morning jaunt but don't expect solitude. The track is a favourite of locals and tourists.

It is suitable for strollers and wheelchairs, provided those pushing have the energy to weave around the few wayward roots and obstacles that get in the way.

The rock-lined asphalt path is lined by quaint rock walls and shaded by over-hanging trees.

Wild turkeys rustle and ferret among large tree roots, their sacks of red and yellow skin swinging from the male's necks like deflated balloons. There is even the chance that a fossicking iguana will scamper across the path.

It's the surfers who really take ownership of Burleigh. Its reputation for great surf is known throughout the world. And there are plenty of opportunities for visitors to get out and give it a go.

The Queensland Surf School offices are in the centre of town and offer one-on-one, or small group tuition. Numerous water-sports shops hire out equipment.

Burleigh Heads puts you in the middle of the action of Surfers Paradise - from the peaceful sanctuary at Currumbin to the exhilaration of nearly all of the Gold Coast's theme parks .

Getting There

Flight Centre is offering accommodation at the Breakfree Mediterranean, North Burleigh (a 4-star property). Package includes return airfares to Brisbane from Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch and seven nights' accommodation, for travel between December 25 and January 26. Price is $1249 a person share twin.

For travel next year, consider staying at the Miami Pacific from $499 a person. Price includes return flights from Auckland and seven nights' accommodation (travel from January 12 to April 6). Other packages available.

Offers subject to availability. Airport taxes of about $85 a person are additional and subject to currency fluctuations.

Getting around

Rental cars are available and range from $30 a day. There is moped and scooter hire for the young at heart.

The Gold Coast is basically a long strip next to the ocean. A regular bus services runs the length of it 24 hours a day.

Gold Coast Tourist Shuttles have a Freedom Pass worth checking out.

Visit surfside.com.au or phone: 00617 5574 5111.

When to go

Anytime is a great time to visit the Gold Coast.

If you are young at heart, risk visiting during Schoolies. This traditionally starts at the closure of the secondary school year. If you are not into youthful high jinks, then avoid that period - discuss it with your travel agent.

Where to eat

Restaurants are plentiful, as well as every manner of traditional and ethnic foods. Sidewalk cafes are popular.

Many surf life-saving clubs have restaurants and bistros attached.

Facilities are air-conditioned, and offer a good range of reasonably priced meals. You are also supporting a worthwhile cause.

Recommended are:

* The Surf Club Northcliffe, cnr Garfield Tce and Thornton St, Surfers Paradise

* The Surf Club, North Burleigh, 293 The Esplanade, Miami.

* The Surf Club Kirra, 15 Marine Parade, Kirra

Beach activities

Surfing: Surfboards and surfing lessons are offered at most watersport stores between Surfers Paradise and Burleigh Heads. There are also numerous surf hire kiosks along the waterfront. Prices range from $10 an hour to $30 a day.

Early morning surf is the best so it pays to organise board hire the night before to make the most of the early morning swells.

Most main beaches are patrolled by surf life-saving clubs.

Other activities

No Gold Coast trip is complete without visiting one of the main theme parks:

Dream World, Movie World, Sea World, Wet'n'wild, or Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary are among the popular choices.