Samoa: The first XV

Meeting the friendly locals is a must-do. Photo / NZME.

With the All Blacks heading to the islands, the Herald's Pacific Affairs reporter, Vaimoana Tapaleao, selects her top attractions.

Apparently it'll be all about the rugby in Samoa this week. But those heading over for the big showdown between the All Blacks and the Manu Samoa should know there is much more to see, taste and do in the land known as the Heart of Polynesia.

For me, visiting the motherland is about aiga, or family, so my top 15 things to do on the island are typical of home life - a mix of good food, the sights, local swimming spots and tradition.

15 is the Apia Markets - Samoa's answer to the Westfield Mall. The closest thing to Dunkin' Donuts you'll find here is the pork bun.

These are a somewhat juicy delicacy and come either steamed (my favourite) or fried.

One of these goes down well with a nice cold drink and the guy behind the counter will probably give you a wink, so that's a bit of a bonus.

Besides that, there are dozens of stalls selling beautiful and very affordable island clothing, jewellery, arts and crafts here.

It's a great place to pick up gifts for those back home - or for yourself.

14 is a nod to tusitala, the teller of tales: Robert Louis Stevenson.

The Treasure Island author lived in Samoa in the late 1800s and his home is now one of Samoa's most beautiful museums, housing many of the writer's personal belongings.

The homestead and its lush gardens will transport you to the Victorian era and, if you're keen, a 45-minute hike up Mt Vaea, where Stevenson is buried, will leave you breathless - from the view of Apia Harbour as well as the hike.

A woman sells hats at the Apia Market. Photo / Dean Purcell

13 Time to eat. You'll find lots of yummy eateries around town, but this is a shout out to top hotels such as Orator and Amanaki, where many families like to go for a treat.

Amanaki, in particular, is the king of fresh seafood and does a mean sashimi with soy sauce and poke - or marinated raw fish - alongside slivers of fresh coconut.

I know of people who head straight to Amanaki after getting off the plane just for the poke - it's that good.

12 & 11 pay tribute to Piula and Malua theological colleges. Piula is popular with locals and tourists alike for its natural spring cave pool.

Malua's spectacularly large turtle pool out front is free and also a treat to see.

10 is a hat-tip to my golf-loving uncles, who can usually be found at the Faleata Golf Course (about 10 minutes from Apia). There is also the Royal Samoa Country Club in Fagali'i and the Le Penina Golf Course near the airport.

9 is a simple one - taking a walk along the seawall overlooking Apia Harbour.

The wall stretches from one side of town to the next and is a unique way to take in the sights.

8 The Papase'ea Sliding Rocks are a great way to cool off. The spring rock pools are formed naturally and there are both pools and rock slides, including smaller pools for youngsters.

7 Food again and it's one of my family's favourites: Giordano's Pizzeria & Garden Restaurant. There are only a few places in Samoa that cater to pizza-lovers and I'd bet these are the best in Apia.

6 & 5 take us to mum's side of the aiga - Savai'i. If you're lucky enough to be heading over to the big island, leaving without seeing the blowholes near Taga village is a sin.

This natural wonder is amazing and from the road looks like whales spraying water.

There is always a local willing to show you the coconut trick, which is hugely entertaining.

Not far from here is a lady who specialises in making tapa cloth. Based in Palauli village, it's a traditional art form that's now quite rare to see. Watch her pound the bark by hand and ink her designs.

It's a nice sitting-down activity, especially for kids - and she may even put a pot of koko (Samoan cocoa) on.

To Sua Ocean Trench on Upolu Island. Photo / Supplied

4 is the world famous To Sua Ocean Trench, in Lotofaga. It's about an hour's drive from Apia and simply stunning. Thirty metres down is a cavernous natural swimming hole.

Access is by a sturdy - but possibly scary for some - ladder, so be careful.

3 A fiafia night. Many hotels put on weekly cultural nights that celebrate song, dance and traditional yummy food.

Be warned, though, a beautiful woman (or man) may get you up to dance and it is very hard to say no.

2 Church on Sunday. It really is a lovely way to spend a Sunday morning in Samoa.

You will be welcomed into any of the churches and be treated to beautiful singing and a look into island culture.

1 My number one thing to do in Samoa is: Get to know the people. You can't say you've been to Samoa unless you have shaken someone's hand, and shared a conversation or even a drink with a local.

The sights are nice, but it's the hospitality and smiles that truly make Samoa special.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Samoa daily.