Sailing the Nile in comfort and style. Photo / Viking
Sailing the Nile in comfort and style. Photo / Viking
One of the newest Viking river ships to grace the Nile, the Sobek soaks up every Pharaoh and pyramid you could wish for, writes Erika Ebsworth-Goold
Stretched out on my stateroom’s spacious veranda, sipping a glass of sparkling wine, I’m savouring a small bit of downtime. Towering palm trees sway on the shore in the warm, dry breeze. We pass by tiny fishing boats and small villages at a leisurely, calming clip. At some point, a muezzin’s call emanates from a mosque’s minaret, summoning people to afternoon prayer along the river.
I still can’t believe I’m here in Egypt experiencing all its wonders.
I recently travelled on an abbreviated version of Viking’s Pharaohs & Pyramids 12-day cruise-tour and sailed on one of the line’s brand-new ships: Sobek. The boat’s creature comforts combined with Viking’s thoughtfully curated itinerary add up to the journey of a lifetime along the Nile.
Life on board
Sobek reflects the elegant and airy Scandinavian design synonymous with Viking. When I came aboard in Luxor, the ship was conveniently docked a short distance from the famed Karnak Temple complex. The incomparable Valley of Kings was visible just across the river.
On embarking, I received a refreshing face cloth, a small glass of cold hibiscus tea and a warm greeting.
“Welcome home,” one of the stewards smiled at me. I couldn’t help but grin right back.
Granted, I spent most of my time off the ship, exploring tombs, temples and so much more. That said, Sobek’s on-board experience was restful and restorative. My spacious stateroom was the perfect haven after long days on the go. Its full balcony was one of my favourite spots on the boat, the perfect vantage point for watching the river go by. The queen-sized bed made with luxury Egyptian cotton sheets was just right for a restful night’s sleep.
Sobek dining room. Photo / Erika Ebsworth-Goold
Shared spaces, including the lounge and library, were inviting and full of natural light. The sundeck was a comfortable spot to watch incredible sunsets. The small infinity pool built off the stern offered a view of Sobek’s wake trailing into the Nile’s horizon.
Sobek’s sundeck features a small infinity pool for stunning Nile views. Photo / Viking
I certainly never went hungry during my time on board. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were either served in the dining room or more casual Aquavit Terrace. The culinary team made sure each day’s menu incorporated Middle Eastern flavours, including an assortment of mezzes and main dishes, alongside Western standards such as ribeye, salmon and even cheeseburgers. If I felt peckish between meals, I’d grab biscuits and tea at a self-serve station near the reception area.
Locally produced wine and beer were served at lunch and dinner. Some spirits were also available onboard, although the selection was somewhat limited given local religious customs.
Sobek dinner.Photo / Erika Ebsworth-Goold
Ready, set, explore
My Viking itinerary began in Cairo with a land-based tour. Representatives met me just before baggage claim, obtained my visa, and quickly whisked me through customs. From there, it was off to the five-star Nile Ritz Carlton for a much-needed rest.
The following morning, our group motor-coached to Giza, where I marvelled at the Pyramids, said hello to the mysterious Sphinx, and took a camel ride through the desert, all arranged by Viking. The afternoon included a visit to the magnificent, brand-new Grand Egyptian Museum. In the evening, I haggled in the Khan el-Khalili souk, enjoyed a traditional dinner and received a private after-hours tour of the Egyptian Museum where Tutankhamun’s mask and glittering golden coffins are displayed.
Pharaonic temple of Horus in Edfu, Egypt, ca. 237 BC. Photo / Viking
The next morning, an hour-long charter flight landed me in Luxor to begin the cruise portion of the trip. After checking in, I was off to the Karnak Temple complex, home to more than 100 towering pillars carved with intricate hieroglyphics. I also walked a portion of the magnificent Avenue of Sphinxes, a 2.7km avenue connecting Karnak to Luxor Temple, its 1000 statues dating back millennia and still standing sentry.
Other highlights included a sunrise hot-air balloon ride that had me soaring 700m above the Nile, hiking through the Valley of the Kings and descending into King Tut’s gilded tomb, where I was mesmerised by its illustrated scenes from the Book of the Dead. Each outing was more incredible than the last. I could barely contain my awe.
Sunrise Balloon Ride Over the Nile. Photo / Erika Ebsworth-Goold
Sobek also set sail for two smaller towns, giving me the chance to explore lesser-known sites. Near Qena, I strolled through Dendera Temple, dedicated to the goddess of love and joy, Hathor. Its colourful chapels depict the birth of Horus, along with other mythological figures and fables. On the south exterior wall, I spied Cleopatra and her son, Caesarion. Esna’s Temple of Khnum is filled with two dozen gilded columns decorated with dazzling lotus, palm and papyrus motifs.
Esna’s Temple of Khnum features columns adorned with lotus, palm, and papyrus motifs. Photo / Erika Ebsworth-Goold
While I was on a truncated version of Viking’s full 12-day Egyptian journey, I certainly made the most of my time. And with the line’s daily excursions at each port, you will, too.
My holiday felt a bit like drinking from a firehose. It would have been easy to feel overwhelmed without context.
Thank goodness for our programme director Hanan El-Deib.
Programme directors on every Viking Nile itinerary are Egyptologists with deep knowledge of the land, the river, and the country’s ancient civilisations. They’re also skilled storytellers who truly make all the difference to your holiday.
“No other country can compete with us when we talk about history over the centuries,” El-Deib told me.
After experiencing Egypt’s magic for myself, I’m inclined to agree.
Bas Relief at Dendera Temple. Photo / Erika Ebsworth-Goold
El-Deib, also an archaeologist, constantly connected history and culture during our excursions. She explained the ancient Egyptians’ relationship with nature, their deities, birth and death. At each site, she pointed out nuances — like a small statue of the lesser-known god Bes at Dendera Temple – I would likely not even have noticed. Her passion was evident, as she enthusiastically answered every question I had. From describing local customs to translating a complicated hieroglyphic, El-Deib had it covered.
Daily onboard lectures addressed topics ranging from medicine in ancient Egypt to the significance of the Nile. They were both informative and entertaining, presented with plenty of local colour, wit and charm.
An immersive, trending itinerary
It’s clear Viking is bullish on everything Egypt offers visitors from around the world. The line started sailing there in 2008 and currently has six ships on the Nile. Another four are being built near Cairo, which will take the fleet to 10 by 2026. Sobek and her sisters accommodate just 82 guests, so you can expect bespoke service during every day of your adventure.
Kiwis are taking notice. Sobek’s hotel manager confirmed an uptick of New Zealand travellers cruising the Nile. The itinerary remains popular and is nearly sold out this season, which runs from August through June.
Erika onboard docked in Esna. Photo / Erika Ebsworth-Goold
“People who have never thought about doing a river cruise before are now considering it, and cruising the Nile is a bucket-list experience,” explained Michelle Black, Viking’s Managing Director for Australia and New Zealand. “There’s so much wonder at every turn.”
The Bar in the Lounge, Viking Osiris, Egypt. Photo / Viking
I still can’t shake that sense of wonder. I hope I never do.
Viking makes no apologies for the fact it appeals to the curious, deep-thinking traveller. If you count yourself in that category and want to explore Egypt’s most iconic sights safely, without hassle and in comfort, a Viking Nile cruise might just be your ticket.
