It's renowned for being New Zealand's second busiest tourist city (after Queenstown), but there's plenty of affordable luxury for Kiwis to appreciate in Rotorua too. As entertaining in the depth of winter as it is in summer, it's also a city for all seasons, and made for a relaxing weekend getaway, just three and a half hours from Auckland.
Arriving in darkness, we marvelled at how much the city has grown in recent years, but as you drive towards the Millennium Hotel, which lies close to the lake shore with steam pouring from the edges, you feel like you're getting back to Rotorua of old.
The Millennium was built in the 1980s, and while a little old-fashioned, it's also delightfully comfortable. It's conveniently central, and offers spectacular views of the lake and naturally steaming springs, from its fifth floor balcony rooms.
It's also a mere hop across the road to the Polynesian Spa, a place that's been synonymous with relaxation and therapeutic qualities since the 1880s, when it's said that a Catholic priest from Tauranga, Father Mahoney, who was suffering from arthritis, was brought to the Te Pupunitanga spring to bathe, and found himself much relieved. Rotorua's first bath house was then built, and the government promoted it as a health resort.
More than 130 years on, it's become the Polynesian Spa and undergone many changes, but the appeal remains the same: what could be more relaxing than soaking in 36-42 degree pools, enriched with minerals, while looking out across the shores of Lake Rotorua.