Today, the 80-ha island, sandwiched between Waiheke and Ponui, is a sanctuary for birds like the tūī, takahē, tīeke (saddleback) and brown kiwi.
More than a century ago, however, it was a sanctuary of a very different kind. Purchased by the Salvation Army in 1908 (for the princely sum of 400 pounds), the island became a private rehabilitation facility where men addicted to the bottle could come and dry out.
As the country's first and longest-running treatment centre, Rotoroa Island served more than 12,000 New Zealanders and was impressively self-sufficient, with rich vegetable gardens, farms and orchards keeping guests' stomachs and schedules full.
The exhibition centre is petite but packed with history about life on the island (as well as a glorious air-conditioning system for brutally hot days). Treatment ceased in 2005. Three years later it was purchased by a philanthropic couple who created the Rotoroa Island Trust and finally, in 2011, it was reopened to the public.
Proudly pest-free, we're thoroughly briefed at the ferry terminal about cleaning our shoes, checking bags for stowaways and reminded often to "take only photos, leave only footprints".
With a coastline of around 8km, the island is a near-perfect size; small enough to see everything, with multiple beach stops as we go, big enough to use up the whole day. Departing Auckland at 8am, we arrive around 9.30 am, and have until 4pm to explore.
Carrying 116 passengers, the ferry has travellers of every kind. There are the retired couples who come armed with sun hats and hiking poles (which aren't strictly necessary; the tracks are smooth and peak elevation is 65m).
Teens clustered in groups toting overstuffed beach bags and music speakers. Families who clearly take beach days very seriously as they wheel little wagons packed with cooler bins and shopping bags on board. Travelling lightly, we scoff at the excessive luggage, instead opting for slender backpacks to carry our water bottles, sandwiches, books and towels. Yet, as 3pm rolls around and the desire for an ice-cold diet coke and snack sets in, their cooler bags and gourmet set-ups suddenly don't seem so silly.
In classic island time, the day passes slow, yet some are still able to be late for the 4pm departure. The boat won't leave without you, but the island's managers absolutely will chase you down to the dock in their car as passengers look on disapprovingly.
Although, with an island as beautiful as this, we can understand why you'd want to stay until the very last minute.
CHECKLIST: ROTOROA ISLAND
DETAILS
Fullers ferries depart from downtown Auckland to Rotoroa Island daily throughout summer. Times vary from 8am to 11.30am - check the website for current timetable and sailing details.
See fullers.co.nz for more information.
This piece originally appeared in New Zealand Herald Travel here.
