The new operator of lodges built by the Robertsons in NZ is offering a winter deal for Kiwis and Aussies, writes Grant Bradley
This was a pinch yourself moment. Descending a farm track to pristine, deserted Takou Bay at Rosewood Kauri Cliffs was like a scene out of a 1960s surf movie.
Corduroy lines of perfectly groomed swell were hitting Takou Bay early on a stunning autumn day. We had the beach to ourselves and I had my surfboard. Bliss.
While I get by in the surf after years of trying, absolute rookies can get lessons and surf safaris arranged (in summer) at one of New Zealand’s most beautiful, and friendliest, properties.
This winter, New Zealanders and Australians are offered special deals in what is much more than one of the country’s best golf destinations. This year Kauri Cliffs will stay open throughout winter as ultra-luxury property operator Rosewood makes its mark on the three Robertson family-owned lodges in the country and there are all-inclusive $2500 per night deals on offer.
We packed as much as possible into a two-day stay but didn’t get near to doing everything on the 2430ha property that’s perfect for an active break. Or doing very little at all.
We were immediately attracted to three private beaches. Pink Beach is a gorgeous cove with tiny shells in the delicate hue that gives the beach its name. An easy 40-minute walk from the lodge is an example of the beautiful walking trails around Rosewood Kauri Cliffs with its breathtaking views.
Around a craggy headland from Pink Beach is Little Takou. Pure white sand leads to rock pools for exploring, with encouraging signs of plenty of pāua. And then there’s Takou Bay, where the surf was rolling in.
Further north, Waiaua Bay is ideal for swimming, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing. There are islands close to the beach to explore. It’s a place rich in Māori history known to our guide Michael Venner, the lodge’s guest relations manager with links to local iwi.
Michael gave us a 2.5 hour “greatest hits” tour of what is a world-class golf course next to a working sheep and beef farm, sprinkled with native forest and pine plantations. From the highest points you look west across the Cavalli Islands and south down to Russell.
As we climbed aboard a grunty new All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) he promised adventure, not danger. It’s a thrilling way to get around and Michael’s a fund of information about the place he’s proud to show off. He says guests now come mainly from the United States and Europe, attracted by what he neatly describes as the “relaxed elegance” of Rosewood Kauri Cliffs. They’re so impressed around one-third make return visits.
A visitor’s book tells its own story:
“Love, love, love! The views are to die for, the golf was epic and your staff are top notch.”
“Thank you for a wonderful honeymoon stay. Golf, hiking, unforgettable dining, exceptional service. We hope to return!”
“A slice of heaven of earth. The views, people and atmosphere are excellent. I will always remember my time here and hope to come back.”
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The Northland lodge is about three hours and 40 minutes by road from Auckland or for the more direct approach a helicopter can be chartered from Auckland Airport or city. The transfer tariff starts from $11,710 for up to six passengers and the scenic journey takes just over an hour.
Key to guests feeling so at ease at Rosewood Kauri Cliffs is the architecture and decor of the main lodge building – a quietly luxurious blend of colonial and Cape Cod style that makes it more like a home than a hotel.
Rustic antiques, refined designer pieces and modern artworks (including a stunning Stanley Palmer in the foyer) lead you to a relaxed lounge with plush sofas and open fireplaces. But you won’t be able to take your eyes off the view through the French doors leading to the front verandah – the golf course sweeps out to the ocean, down to Takou Bay and out to Cape Brett. The interior colours draw from the natural wonder outside; the designers knew they couldn’t compete.
An attentive welcome from staff at the discreet reception desk off the main lobby sets the tone for the lodge’s warm and understated service. A mix of New Zealanders, young internationals on working holidays and people from overseas who have decided to settle here, the staff have a wonderful knack of appearing just in time to anticipate your next wish without seeming intrusive. They’re happy to chat and share details of their own journeys to this special part of the world, while getting to know the activities you’ll most enjoy while at the lodge and helping make those happen.
Rosewood has been managing the three Robertson lodges in New Zealand since last December. There’s been some back office improvements but Rosewood is taking a careful approach to the changes guests will notice. With the beautiful canvas the lodges provide, there won’t be changes for the sake of it.
At Kauri Cliffs, the accommodation cottages continue the theme of the main lodge. Wander past the infinity pool and spa looking out to sea, and a path through beautiful regenerated bush leads to eight cottages – you might see tūī or kererū in the branches above you, almost close enough to touch. Guest rooms have a generous dressing room, lavish bathroom, fireplace with sitting area, and a private verandah overlooking the farm to the sea. You can have your first coffee of the day watching the sunrise past grazing cows and sheep.
Back up the path is a track to the spa. This special little bush walk through tōtara forest is a wonderful introduction to a tranquil building opening out to a fern glen and winding stream.
Each treatment room, including a couple’s room, has floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening to a private patio surrounded by forest dotted with many fine tōtora.
We each enjoyed a luxurious 50-minute massage. The spa also offers facials, mud or mānuka honey wraps, manicures and pedicures. Before or after your treatment you can enjoy the sauna, jacuzzi, indoor heated lap pool and fitness centre.
By now it’s time for dinner. You’re first encouraged to relax with a cocktail in the lounge, where you’re brought hors d’oeuvres by the fire. When you’re ready to make your way to the dining room you once again find a space of relaxed luxury, with upholstered chairs and oak tables looking out across a wrap-around verandah to the view.
The menu highlights New Zealand ingredients – snapper, lamb, crayfish and oysters – done well to enhance their own flavour, or with a subtle Asian twist through the addition of miso, ikura (salmon roe) or Asian dressing. Desserts are worth saving space for – they are small works of art that celebrate flavours of the South Pacific such as pineapple and mango. There are many Northland wines on the list.
Breakfast is best enjoyed on the sun-drenched verandah, which even in autumn was sheltered from a brisk breeze and warmed by a gas fire and overhead heaters.
You look over the jewel in the crown of this destination – its golf course. A 72 championship masterpiece designed by David Harman of Orlando, it measures 6412m and offers four sets of tees to challenge every skill level. Fifteen holes view the Pacific Ocean, and six of these run along the edge of the cliffs that plunge to the sea. The picturesque inland holes wind through marsh, forest and farmland.
The course has won international awards and is regularly named among the best in the world. Letters on display from Kiwi golfing great Sir Bob Charles and former Kauri Cliffs ambassador Michael Campbell attest to its prestige:
“The outstanding vistas of the ocean and the extraordinary creativity of David Harman on the site provides you and New Zealand with something to be proud of.” - Sir Bob Charles.
“With several years travelling the world I have seen some beautiful layouts. Kauri Cliffs is right up there with the best. I would like to congratulate you on developing one of the best tracks I have ever played.” - Michael Campbell
But you don’t have to play golf to enjoy the course. We picked up a cart outside the pro shop and were encouraged to follow the paths up to the 15th hole. This way you can appreciate how the course has embraced the landscape, complete with three wooden viaducts spanning a gully, and made the most of those spectacular views up to the Cavalli Islands and beyond.
A variety of walks around the property offer another free way to enjoy the setting. Just 1.5km back up the road is a track to a magnificent 800-year-old kauri set in native bush protected by the Queen Elizabeth Trust. A 4.5km trail over the farm and through stands of forest will take you to the Hikurua waterfall. And you can take a picnic to any of the three private beaches. A staff member will even bring you a surfboard.
It’s not just golf.
A sample of Rosewood Kauri Cliffs experiences:
ATV back country tour: Prices start from $1075 for one to two guests for a 2.5-hour experience.
Cultural heritage tour: Outlining the Māori and pioneer history of the property. Prices start from $645 for one to two guests for a three-hour experience.
Stargazing kiwi encounter night tour: From $1075 for one to two guests for a 2.5-hour experience.
Farm tour: A tour of the farm by the farm manager, including possible sheep shearing from $430 for two for a 1.5-hour experience.
Land-based fishing: Take your catch back to the lodge and the chef will prepare it for your dinner from $445 for one to four guests, for a two-hour experience.
Horse riding: Explore the farm through native bush down to a beach for a picnic, or be taken to a Kerikeri farm. Prices start from $1000 for two for a 1.5-hour experience.
The spa: Manicures and pedicures from $110-$215; massages from $290-$380; wraps $380. Pilates prices start from $360 for 60 minute lesson for one person.
Day trips
90-Mile Beach and Cape Reinga: $2375 for up to four guests for a five to eight-hour experience.
Helicopter excursions
Bay of Islands discovery tour: From $3600 for up to six people for a 30-minute flight.
Bay of Islands Hole In The Rock: From $4500 for up to six people for a 40-minute flight.
The Deal
Rosewood Kauri Cliffs, Rosewood Cape Kidnappers and Rosewood Matakauri have a winter special deal for Australians and New Zealanders from $2500.
At Rosewood Kauri Cliffs the tariff includes suite accommodation, unlimited green fees or a 50-minute spa treatment per person per night stayed, pre-dinner aperitif, gourmet cuisine for dinner, full breakfast, in-suite complimentary non-alcoholic mini bar and use of all lodge facilities. They include an infinity pool and hot tub, spa and fitness centre with lap pool, sauna and jacuzzi, three private beaches, mountain bikes and walking tracks.
The writer stayed at Rosewood Kauri Cliffs courtesy of Rosewood Hotels.
Grant Bradley is the deputy editor at the Business Herald, based in Auckland. He has worked at the New Zealand Herald for more than 30 years in senior roles including chief reporter and deputy news editor, and his current role also writes about tourism and aviation.
