There's more to Viti Levu than meets the eye. Video: ATTA / Ulrika Larsson / Cédric Jean-Baptiste / Kristen Kellogg
Nestled deep in the rural wilderness of Fiji’s mainland Viti Levu lies Natalei Eco Lodge, offering uncomplicated serenity while embracing sustainability, writes Varsha Anjali.
Location: On the mainland of Viti Levu in Nataleira, Tailevu, 85km north of Suva City. If travelling directly from Nadi or Nausori airport, it’s best to organise a car transfer. Natalei Eco Lodge can arrange this for an additional fee.
Perfect for: Couples and families. I mean, they host weddings here for a reason: everything exudes romance. You have an evening bonfire. You have moonlight on the black sand beach. You have quiet, profound serenity. And for kids, there’s plenty of space to be curious, wander and play.
Peaceful kayaking through the mangroves - an area that was severely damaged by Cyclone Winston in 2016. Photo: ATTA / Cédric Jean-Baptiste
Price: Costs start from about FJ$322 ($245) a night for the standard couple’s room with one queen-sized bed. Currently, two family rooms are priced the same - about FJ$432 a night. One has a queen bed while the other includes a queen and two single. The Luxury Villa, Bure Makalati, will be available soon. It has one king-sized bed and two singles.
First impressions: Humbling and beautiful. I felt cheesy but not at all in a bad way. This wasn’t some White Lotus fancy resort where most of the people you see are wealthy tourists. We were in a rural area - away from many of the typical Fiji tourist thirst traps - in the heart of the Nataleira village, who are involved in every aspect of the lodge.
Rooms: Currently, three to choose from and soon, with the addition of a luxury villa, there will be four. I had the privilege of trying out the luxury villa ahead of its official launch, and it was both beautiful and comfortable. There was plenty of space with king beds and more singles, making it ideal for a small family. There is no partition for the rooms and an open plan design helps create a more inviting atmosphere. All rooms have air conditioning and Wi-Fi.
Misty wilderness of the Tailevu province. Photo: ATTA / Cédric Jean-Baptiste
Bathroom: In the luxury villa there was an open shower with hot water and a separate toilet. The toilet was unusually high (anyone under 5ft may have their feet dangling while sitting), but it wasn’t an issue otherwise. There was plenty of space on the countertop, shelves and cabinet to store items.
Food and drink: Natalei offers a unique, sustainable farm-to-table experience. It uses locally grown fruit and fresh seafood and meat. Everything is organic.
In the evening, we had a buffet showcasing Indigenous cuisine, from ika vakalolo (fish in coconut cream) and palusami (a traditional dish with taro leaves, garlic, onion and coconut cream) to mud crabs. The next day for lunch we were treated to an Indo-Fijian buffet: pumpkin curry, dhal, roti, bean curry and more.
Many of these dishes are vegan-friendly, catering to the rise in requests for plant-based options. Jay Bau, the owner of Natalei Eco Lodge, told me the staff developed the salad recipes after attending a course by Duavata, a sustainable tourism collective.
Natalei Eco Lodge can cater to special dietary needs if notified well in advance. Photo / Natalei Eco Lodge
Being Indo-Fijian and having lived in Fiji for the first few years of my life, with regular trips back to visit family, I have grown up with this food. It’s a cliche, but I mean it - it tasted like the best of Fiji on a plate. This was family food with reverence. This was delicious.
Facilities: Air conditioning, Wi-Fi and electricity are available free of charge. The lodge has a constant supply of running water but it’s not recommended to drink it. The lodge provides free filtered water at the kitchen’s common station.
In the neighbourhood: This was my favourite part of the stay - just a short 15-minute boat ride away was a large pod of spinner dolphins.
For an additional fee, Natalei offers excursions to watch the dolphins and to snorkel in Moon Reef, a coral reef aptly named for its crescent moon-like shape. Bau told our tour group that the chances of seeing dolphins were near 100% at any point in the year - making it one of Fiji’s likeliest spots to see the playful creatures up close.
Together with a Natalei guide, you can also go kayaking through mangroves and trekking to a nearby waterfall.
Sustainability: Running an eco-friendly operation is important to the lodge. This commitment is evident not only through its food and catering services but also in its organised tours and activities. Bau explained that they ensure that there is a minimum impact on the natural environment in all organised activities that they conduct.
Each tour also aims to promote rehabilitation; for example, there is an opportunity to plant a native tree when mangrove kayaking.
Accessibility: The accommodation is on ground level with no steps, so there are no issues for wheelchair users accessing rooms. There was plenty of space for manoeuvring in the toilet and bathroom of the Bure Makalati, the luxury villa.
