Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows contrasts its colonial heritage with traditional Samoan-style bungalows and modern amenities. Photo / Marriott International
Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows contrasts its colonial heritage with traditional Samoan-style bungalows and modern amenities. Photo / Marriott International
Flash floods and a global pandemic forced its doors shut at the end of 2020, but now, the most famous hotel in Samoa (and perhaps of all the Pacific) has officially reopened, writes Tom Rose.
Positioned at the crossroads of Apia’s lively harbour and the Vaisigano River mouth, the Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Hotel & Bungalows is one of the Pacific’s most storied resorts.
What began as a modest club, opened in 1933 by trailblazing tourism star Aggie Grey, has transformed into an all-inclusive, four-star retreat celebrated for embodying Samoan hospitality.
Having built its reputation during World War II, accommodating foreign soldiers and circumventing a national alcohol ban, the hotel today exudes a timeless allure that draws new visitors in and keeps the locals returning.
The resort officially reopened in November 2024, having undergone a multimillion-dollar redesign after flash floods damaged the property amid the height of the pandemic. Its central location, elevated service, and rich historical legacy are now tempting people back, selling a lavish experience in the heart of the Pacific.
You’ll first spot Aggie Grey’s when travelling into central Apia and along Beach Rd, which hugs the harbourside all the way to the country’s busiest port. The hotel is a short stroll from the city’s cafes, restaurants, attractions, and if ever needed, the New Zealand High Commission.
Perfect for: Those who want the best of both worlds – to be close enough to enjoy Apia’s offerings, yet far enough to embrace the laid-back rhythm of island life. Here, you’ll find the ideal balance of convenience and relaxation.
The open-plan foyer provides a seamless connection from the hotel to the oceanfront. Photo / Ryan Linnegar
First impressions: Filing out of the van, we were eagerly welcomed to Apia by hotel staff waiting on standby for the day’s arrivals. A warm exchange of “talofa” was followed by an invitation through the open doors and into a sweeping foyer, kitted with a reception, tea lounge, bar and spots to rest the legs. Check-in went as easily as it could, with staff providing a refreshing glass of juice and inquiring about any special needs while they grabbed our details and activated the room keys.
The room: Opened by Aggie Grey with only 20 rooms, this historic hotel now holds 175 accommodation options. There are 149 guest rooms and three premium suites that circle the resort’s perimeter, enclosing a central courtyard home to a restaurant, pool and 23 private bungalows.
Inside one of the bungalows at Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows.
My bungalow, featuring a mammoth-sized king bed, sitting area, and bathroom, was a cool, air-conditioned hideaway tucked near the back of the resort. The staff kept it stocked with coffee, tea and water, and organised a heartwarming flax arrangement on the bed each morning that spelt “hello” in Samoan. Space abounds in the bungalows, with plenty of nooks and storage to stash your belongings. All rooms include a TV with casting capabilities, perfect for lazy mornings or quiet nights in.
Bathroom: The spacious bungalow bathroom came prepped with towels, toiletries and all the other essentials. I was spoilt for choice with a sleek rainfall shower and an oversized bathtub, while the soft robes and slippers completed its spa-like aura.
Space abounds in the resort's bungalows, which have a luxurious bathroom set-up. Photo / Ryan Linnegar
Facilities: Mirroring its sister establishment by the airport, Aggie Grey’s freeform pool has a swim-up bar for refreshments, while a hotel-adjacent casino is open exclusively for foreign passport holders. Completed renovations have seen the reopening of refurbished corporate events spaces, notably used when King Charles visited the country for Chogm 2024. Free, high-speed Wi-Fi is available around the resort, although this proved patchy for me at times from my faraway bungalow.
Food and drink: Beyond the lobby bar and 24-hour tea lounge, which sells small bites and food-to-go, there’s Feast, an all-day restaurant in the courtyard’s fale. The chefs have pretty much nailed the menu across the board; global cuisine leaves no corner of the world unturned. That said, I highly recommend spoiling yourself with as much of Samoa’s world-class seafood as you can – it truly was impeccable.
The resort's Tea Lounge offers 24/7 service. Photo / Marriott International
In the neighbourhood: Step out the door on to Beach Rd, where many of Apia’s top attractions are mere minutes away. The Immaculate Conception Cathedral that towers over the harbour is bound to catch your eye. While its blend of traditional patterns, wooden materials, and quirky colonial design nods are breathtaking enough, it’s worth stopping in for a Sunday service, where you’ll be joining the whole island in hymns and prayers of grace. The Samoa Cultural Village opposite also offers insights into Fa’a Samoa (the “Samoan way of life”), providing demonstrations and workshops for visitors interested in learning more about local customs such as tapa making and tattooing.
I’d recommend spending some time further afield too. The Fugalei Fresh Produce Market, lined with countless family-owned stalls selling fruit and veges, handmade goods and tasty local treats, is a must for first-timers in Samoa. Legendary Scot and Treasure Island author Robert Louis Stevenson also lived near Apia for four years before his death in 1894, and his sprawling former residence is now a major tourist attraction. Learn about Stevenson – a staunch critic of European interference in the Pacific, known as tusitala (“teller of tales”) to Samoans – through a guided tour of his former home. You’ll find his grave behind the estate at the summit of Mt Vaea; bring a trusty pair of shoes and a water bottle for the hike, as it’s an hour-long ascent to the top.
Take home a souvenir at the Fugalei Fresh Produce Market in central Apia. Photo / Samoa Tourism Authority
Accessibility: The hotel’s facilities are all accessible, yet options for mobility-accessible rooms are few and far between given design constraints wrought by the building’s old age. Inquire before booking to ensure your needs can be accommodated during your stay.
Sustainability: The hotel renovations made use of eco-friendly furnishings such as sustainable wood and natural fibres. Outside of that, it didn’t seem like it had any long-term sustainability strategy in place yet.
Price: Guest rooms begin at 279 WST ($186) a night for a king bed with either a mountain or pool view; further customisations are available. Private bungalows are priced at 329 WST a night. Three premium suites are also available, starting at 568 WST a night for the standard suites and 768 WST a night for the larger suite. Marriott Bonvoy members get a special discount.
