Romance by the river in a Hawkes Bay rural retreat

By GERALDINE MCMANUS

Why is it called Tom's Cottage?" I asked. The reply was simple, "The cottage was given to us by Tom".

Simplicity of lifestyle is part of the delight of a stay at Tom's Cottage, either Big Tom's (two bedrooms) or Little Tom's (one bedroom). Both are romantic country cottages with charm and style, great comfort, music systems and a candle waiting to be lit by the indoor bath. Both have a private open air bath for bathing al fresco.

Romance is in earnest. Owners Linda and van Howard say that many a proposal has been popped in both cottages giving them a reputation for young and old lovers.

I stayed in Big Tom's. I sat on the wide front veranda, bathed in morning sunshine sipping my plunger coffee.

It was a local Havelock North specially roasted blend and my coffee mug, so very Parnell, was stylish white. I'd popped on a CD of Cat Stevens and music filled the air.

These urban creature comforts were juxtaposed with the extraordinary scenery. Spread in front was a peaceful valley, green with spring grass and new leafed poplars and willows edging the Tuki Tuki River snaking through the softly rolling hills. I could spy the roof of just one other residence surrounded by trees far away across the river.

Hawke's Bay blends sophistication and country-style so well. It has the earthiness of being close to the land and its seasons, the orchards that bloom pale pink in spring then drop with fruit in summer, the grape vines budding with pale lime-green leaves through all the growth to harvest and autumnal tones, before the starkness of winter.

Against this soul of the earth feel are some sophisticated restaurants and winery cellar doors. Over a weekend in the Bay you can don tramping boots and walk remote country tracks before putting a comb through the hair and swishing on lip gloss ready for an alfresco long lunch matched with the finest of wines.

From my bathroom window at Tom's it was a Constable scene. I had woken to gentle lowing of cattle and spied three beneath the poplars just a few metres away. They blinked and stared. I stared back. I am a city girl so this was a novel occurrence.

Van Howard confirmed that during the cottage renovations the cattle spent their time watching. "They seemed to have time each day to come and inspect the progress," he said.

Tom's Cottage was uplifted from downtown Hastings and repositioned in the countryside, where it was given a thorough going over. Now it retains all the charm of the original plus the style and comfort of a city pad. Big Tom's has two bedrooms, each with an ensuite, large double beds and fine-cotton bedlinen.

Two huge doors open wide to let in the sunshine and valley views at the front of the cottage. French doors at the rear open to a wide veranda and an outdoor table ready for a long lunch or leisurely meal late into the evening.

The back garden is part of the huge landscape that includes the range of craggy hills that run up to Te Mata Peak. It soars upward in the distance to meet the blue sky. In the evening the slopes are tinged with a sunset glow. On a still day the occasional hang-glider drops off the top to float in the breeze.

Driving to the top of Te Mata gives an expansive view of the whole of the Bay. Beneath are the spreading farmlands and the flat fertile plains running to the surrounding hills, and beyond is the sea. Te Mata Peak has a network of well-marked walking tracks ideal for a simple stroll or a work-out.

Te Mata is often called the sleeping giant and has a rich history of myth and legend. Finding out the translation of Tuki Tuki was less easy. Telephones up and down the valley were busy in the evening after I asked Linda and Van about the meaning. "Collision" was the closest anyone could offer but somehow this word didn't espouse the scene.

The Tuki Tuki River is well known as an excellent fly fishing river for trout. It also has a long history as a highway and by-way for Maori, who used it for travel and grew crops on its banks. I plan to go back and take a canoe to paddle down it.

Tom's Cottage has the feeling of remoteness yet it is just five minutes to the outstandingly sophisticated Craggy Range Winery or just a few more minutes to the outskirts of Havelock North and the Black Barn restaurant and winery. What more could one want?

Where is it?

Tom's Cottage, Matangi Rd, Hawkes Bay

Contact Phone (06) 874 7900

Email: tomscottage@tukitukivalleycottages.co.nz

Website: Tom's Cottage


Cost

Self-contained cottages with breakfast provisions supplied

Music, television, open fire for the winter

Little Tom's $180 a night; Big Tom's $300

What else to do

Walk to the end of the road

Contact Long Island Tours to visit Maori artists

Canoe down the Tuki Tuki River

Drop into Craggy Range winery to indulge for lunch or dinner

Bring your trout fishing tackle