Does anyone else feel like they have no idea what they want right now? There must be a study somewhere confirming that living under pandemic conditions severely compromises your ability to make decisions on anything and everything.
In a recent state of not-being-sure-where-to-take-my-family-on-holiday, I opted for a little bit of city, a little bit of countryside and some beachside action all rolled into one super-fun Waikato road trip. I'm pleased to report it worked out well and I'd recommend it to anyone looking for an adventure close to Auckland. Here's what we explored, and what you should too.
Day one
On the first day, we hit State Highway 1, towards Hamilton. But instead of stopping in the city itself, we veered west to charming Raglan. Like so many other Aucklanders, we love this coastal town with its easy-breezy surfy vibe, friendly locals, great food and endless opportunities to potter and meander. We spent an easy 24 hours swimming in the estuary and mooching around the township. Sourdough and pastries from Raglan Artisan Bread and coffee from Raglan Roast were an excellent start to the day, and after some browsing round artsy stores and taking a dip to cool down, we enjoyed a great night at the ever-popular Ulo's Kitchen where (on certain nights) you can buy takeout, roll out your picnic rug on the grass and eat your delicious dinner to the sounds of live music and vinyl selections coming from the deck. Bang bang salad, yamitsuki chicken, grilled aburi scallops and pork ribs with some laid-back loungin' sounds - don't mind if we do.
Day two
Up bright and early we headed to Wairēinga (Bridal Veil Falls). The track is cleverly designed to ensure excellent waterfall viewing from above, midway and the bottom. There was some whingeing at the number of stairs - not just by the kids I'm embarrassed to say - but we all agreed it was worth it. Tangata whenua say Wairēinga is home to patupaiarehe (Māori fairies) who are guardians of the area, and it certainly feels like there's some kind of magic filtering through these lush green surrounds, a particularly wonderful tonic for a hot summer day. After the falls it was back into the car and down a road that it looked like time had forgotten - final destination Kāwhia for lunch and a swim. Local favourite The Rusty Snapper Cafe did not disappoint for hearty fare, and the kids' eyes nearly fell out of their heads at the size of the enormous double scoop icecream - a true bargain for a mere $3.50.
Ocean Beach was magnificent with its vast sands and clear turquoise waves and we never wanted to leave. Kāwhia was the final resting place for the Tainui waka and we can see why early explorers may have thought they'd found paradise on arrival. Unfortunately, we weren't there at low tide when this spot comes alive as a hot water beach. Time it right and you can dig your own pool to soak in the geothermal waters. There are even spades to borrow at the gate leading to the dunes.
Kāwhia feels so remote that it's hard to believe that in just an hour you can be back in the urban arms of Hamilton. We arrived just in time for cocktails and sharing plates (those beef cheek croquettes!) with a view at Mr Pickles, followed by a lovely stroll by the river as the sun went down. Staying at the Novotel, right on the banks of the Waikato was perfect as we tumbled into bed after a long day exploring the region.
Day three
What could be better start to our day than a trip to the local farmers' market in Cambridge, just half an hour from Hamilton. We loved picking up tasty treats to take home (the cheese scones from Volare didn't even make it to the car) and the kids were thrilled to find their favourites from Mamas Donuts there too. From there it was another half an hour on to Sanctuary Mountain, one of the largest pest-proof fenced eco-projects in the world. We took a guided tour and were glad we did as it meant we were able to witness takahē being fed and hear fascinating stories of kākāpō breeding - it's no wonder they're endangered, given they only mate every two to four years when rimu trees produce a bumper crop of fruit. Walking through the verdant, emerald bush with the soundtrack of native birdsong was almost meditative, and on the way back from the large viewing platform that looks out over the canopy, we were rewarded with sightings of tūī, pīwakawaka and hilarious kākā putting on a great show. It was a wonderful day and our kids didn't know themselves after all that fresh air and time away from their screens.
It was finally time to head home but not without a stop at Bootleg Brewery on the way back to Auckland. Not only do they do a great brew (try the Apehanger IPA, or a flight if you can't make up your mind) but the brewery is set in a fascinating historic location - the original Matangi Dairy Factory built in 1885 - a big part of the New Zealand dairy story. It has a great relaxed vibe and a rotating cast of food trucks - as well as their own snacks - if you're peckish.
Three days spent doing vastly different things - from strolling the magnificent slate-coloured sands of a beach that felt like miles from anywhere, to sipping cocktails and eating charcuterie in a riverside city setting, there was no need for decisions on what type of holiday to have. Waikato is a great region for a family roadtrip if you're looking for a little bit of everything that's good in life.
CHECKLIST: WAIKATO
Getting there
Raglan is a two and a half-hour drive from Auckland
Where to stay
The family rooms at the Novotel Tainui are perfect if there's four of you and it's brilliantly located for easy walking to anything in central Hamilton
For more travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/nz.
Check traffic light settings and Ministry of Health advice before travel at covid19.govt.nz
