Rest and reflections of Zen Japan

The serenity of traditional Japan still exists in the hot mineral springs of Hakone, just a couple of hours away from frantic Tokyo. In this lush mountain retreat, where the heart of old Japan still beats, the view of Mt Fuji and its reflection in Lake Ashi capture the essence of Zen Japan by relaxing both body and mind.

There is a special hideaway where the residents of Tokyo go to escape from the continuous ocean of faces pouring through the streets and railway stations, the dank smell of seawater seeping through the pavements and the frantic buzz of concrete skyscrapers that wink in the night.

Hakone (pronounced Ha-koh-neh) is a serene oasis of mountains, lakes, valleys, and deep greenery. Found in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park 80km west of Tokyo and 30km southeast of Mt Fuji, visitors often stay at traditional inns to wake up to majestic views of Mt Fuji seemingly right outside their windows.

This, as well as many hot springs (also known as onsen) fed by abundant waters with "mystical healing abilities", make it Tokyo's favourite back-to-nature getaway.

In ancient times, Hakone's numerous onsen baths were enjoyed only by nobility. Samurai lords had favorite onsen where they would retreat to when wounded in battle to speed the healing process. Today, young and old alike make the pilgrimage to this hot spring mecca to soak up the calm ambience and fresh mountain air while languishing in the natural hot springs all year round.

The sodium sulphate therapeutic waters are considered essential for good health, including preventing rheumatism, high blood pressure and an assortment of other ailments.

Spend a peaceful and reflective day soaking in the steaming waters at the Mount Fujiya Hotel. Built in 1878 it is the oldest, grandest and most majestic Western-style establishment and boasts an amazing variety of famous guests from Roosevelt to Gable.

There are separate men's and women's communal baths as well as private hot spring rooms. For a real Japanese experience try the communal baths. In the dressing room, Japanese bathers nonchalantly strip off, fold their clothes and place them neatly in wicker baskets. Beyond the dressing room the only piece of clothing allowed is the standard issue washcloth, the size of a small handkerchief.

In Japan, sharing a public bath with not a stitch of clothing on is the most natural thing in the world. The most uncomfortable part for one who has not been grounded in this custom is embarrassment. In Japan, nobody seems to be too interested or perturbed. Friends chat to each as if they were sitting in a cafe sipping cappuccinos, other bathers float into thoughtful reverie. There is a Zen-like ambience rarely found in any other social setting.

The shower area has a long wall with detachable waist high shower nozzles and a row of small plain wooden stools about 60cm high, just large enough to perch on uncomfortably. Bathers scrub themselves with the thick cakes of black mineral soap to slough away dead skin. In the middle of the room there is a large pool with a smattering of mothers and their children. A walk across the room leads to the outdoor garden and the swirling waters of the natural rock ledged Roten-buro (outdoor pool).

In winter, the tendrils of steam escaping from the Roten-buro create a welcome relief from the cold chill in the air. The outdoor pool seems almost too hot to slide into and the warm water creates the sensation of millions of sharp needles prickling uncomfortably on the skin, but after only a few minutes the body adjusts and the tension in the muscles melt away as the minerals seep through the pores. It is especially poetic during a light snowfall.

Sightseeing in Hakone is easy. Trains, trams, buses, cable cars, gondolas and boats carry visitors around the region in a circular route. The main attractions are a live volcano, a 400,000-year-old lake that offers a magical, almost fairytale, view of Mt Fuji reflected in the water, a peaceful ancient shrine, various historical sites, museums and numerous craft shops.

The Hakone Ropeway (cable car) slides silently over the mountain ridge at a slightly alarming 45-degree angle, providing an expansive view of the hot springs. The air is filled with pungent sulfurous yellow vapors escaping from fissures in the rock, testimony to the ever present volcanic activity. With me in the car are a Japanese family with two young children munching on the area's famous snack of black eggs boiled in the milky bluish green iron-ore waters. Perhaps they believe in the folklore that eating one of these eggs will increase their lifespan by seven years.

The children pester their parents for a ride on one of the multi-coloured replicas of Dutch and Portuguese galleons gliding along the lake. A more fitting description would be "Liberace's Pirate Ships", given the gaudiness of the sight of these strange vessels crossing the scenic Lake Ashi. Their dad looks like he would rather go fishing for trout and black bass using gear and a boat from one of the many hire places.

The red and yellow leaves of the maple trees make it a spectacular setting for an autumn boat ride. Standing on a galleon as it cuts across the glassy water provides a view of the many inviting inns and hotels that fit snugly in the mountain.

Along the water, a sight that catches the eye - a red torii gate that is the entrance to the Hakone shrine. Built in 757AD the shrine is nestled in a wooded grove hidden from the water, with huge ancient cedars lining the meandering pathway that leads up to the shrine.

The vivid vermillion red of the shrine is a striking contrast to the lush green that surrounds it. The gentle whisk of bamboo brooms fills the silence as the temple priests sweep the dust off the ancient steps.

This they have done for hundreds of years, a simple scene pulled from the pages of history. And something to take with me, for my journey home. Another memory - something that will last longer than any shop-bought momento.

Hakone