Rather than the usual beachfront and lagoon-adjacent resorts, Brett Atkinson opts for something different in the Cook Islands, at villa accommodation in Aitutaki
Where: Moana Villa, Amuri, Aitutaki, Cook Islands
What: Spacious and relaxed hilltop haven for active adventures on Aitutaki.
Location: Surrounded by a tropical fruit plantation high above Aitutaki's world-famous lagoon.
Style: Authentic island ambience cooled by South Pacific trade winds.
Price: Booking.com's best rate is $840 for a three-night stay for two adults.
Perfect for: Self-catering families, couples travelling together, and groups enjoying Aitutaki's fishing and outdoor activities.
First impressions: Views from Moana Villa's huge deck extend well past the island's world-famous lagoon to a South Pacific horizon, and it's apparently quite common to see migrating humpbacks during the whale season from July to October. Breezes enlivening the villa's elevated position ensure it's cool and comfortable despite the tropical warmth.
Rooms: Louvred windows, ceiling fans and woven cane plantation-style furniture all combine with colourful island-style fabrics and historic framed prints. A big master bedroom features a king-size bed and a cane day bed, while two additional bedrooms include a queen-size bed and a pair of single beds. Lagoon and horizon views extend from the spacious lounge that's adjacent to a well-equipped kitchen and dining area, while there's another dining table on the huge covered deck. That's definitely the best spot to combine a gin and tonic or a beer with an Aitutaki sunset. Pro tip: Pack a pair of binoculars if you're visiting during the whale season.
Bathroom: Moana Villa features two bathrooms. One, a spacious ensuite leading off the master bedroom, includes a walk-in shower and a vanity crafted from polished tropical timber. The other smaller bathroom is adjacent to the second and third bedrooms that open on to the villa's wraparound deck. Bathroom amenities are limited to basics, so bring along your own skincare and hair products.
Food and drink: Pick up seasonal and hyper-local fruit and vegetables from Sonja at Tauono's Garden Cafe, around 1km down the road heading towards the airport. In Aitutaki's sleepy main village of Arutanga, Maina Traders Superstore is the island's well-stocked supermarket, but it's worth packing your own specialist products like ground coffee. Make the 5km journey by car or scooter from Moana Villa to Avatea Cafe, where an Aitutaki-New Zealand team serves up tasty dishes including poke and an excellent fish curry. Avatea also serve good tropical fruit smoothies, ice-cream made from seasonal fruit, and housemade kombucha. For good coffee, and New Zealand-style cafe fare, head to Koru Cafe near the airport at the southeastern tip of Aitutaki's main island.
Facilities: Moana Villa has an onsite Vodafone Cook Islands hotspot with vouchers available from Rarotonga airport or Vodafone's Aitutaki office. Another option is a Vodafone Cook Islands Travel SIM card ($49) preloaded with 5GB of data, 300 TXTs and 30 minutes of international calling.
There's a washing machine and parking for a rental car or scooters. Note the driveway to the villa is relatively steep and winding, but the astounding lagoon views make it worthwhile. A compact plunge pool is ideal for cooling down after island adventures.
In the neighbourhood: Just off the main road skirting Aitutaki's sunset-friendly west coast, Moana Villa is an ideal self-catering base for exploring the second most popular islands of the Cooks. It's an easy two-minute drive to the wharf to join boat trips exploring the lagoon. Book ahead with Quinton Schofield at Wet & Wild Aitutaki for snorkelling and sightseeing trips exploring the lagoon's various motu (islets), or visit from July to October for whale watching and the opportunity to swim with migrating humpbacks. Quinton can also arrange kiteboarding rental and tuition on nearby Honeymoon Island. To get out beyond the reef and catch yellowfin tuna, wahoo and mahi mahi, hook up with Mike Tekotia at Black Pearl Charters. Don't miss Thursday's Island Night at the nearby Tamanu Beach Resort for a lagoon-side buffet dinner and traditional Cook Islands music and dancing.
Family friendly: Three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a compact plunge pool highlights the appeal of Moana Villa for travelling families. Self-catering in the fully-equipped kitchen also helps to maximise travel budgets.
Accessibility: With a steep driveway and stairs needed to access the property, unfortunately Moana Villa is not suitable for wheelchair users.
Sustainability: Filtered water from a 15-litre container is provided, and aircon-free cooling is made possible by the property's combination of louvred windows, ceiling fans and an elevated hillside position.
Contact: Moana Villa can be booked direct on arapati.com or via booking.com. Search for 'Moana Villa Aitutaki'.
When there's nothing as far as the eye can see, you may appreciate the company.