Raise a glass to Trier's charms

There's a small German city that has it all - charisma,
character and great wine, writes JOELLE THOMSON.

You could say that tourists to Trier have it made. They probably flew into the super-modern Frankfurt airport where they hired the ubiquitous German car, a late model BMW or Mercedes, and then drove on some of the best roads in the world to a city that feels like a village.

Welcome to Trier. It was once the most significant Roman city north of the European Alps and visiting it is like stepping back in time - but with all the mod cons at your fingertips. And, this being Germany, if a convenience is modern it is also superlative in design.

I couldn't help appreciating this fact as my partner and I adjusted our ergonomic seats in the Merc to suit our own contours. And, later, as we tried to dredge up what little German we knew to read the driving options that flashed up on the dash as we drove along the autobahn at anything from 140 km/h up to 200 km/h plus.

Like all German roads, those from Frankfurt to Trier are among the easiest in the world to drive on and navigate your way around. Less than two hours after your long-haul flight, the big commercial smoke of Frankfurt seems like a world away as you sit in your room with a view over some of the steepest vineyards in the world and a glass of good riesling or bier in your hand.

While much of Germany tries desperately to integrate east with west, Trier and its inhabitants seem perfectly content with their place in the world.

Today Trier is part of the Rhineland-Palatinate (Rheinland-Pfalz) but it began life, officially at least, as part of the Roman empire. In 16 BC Trier was founded by the Romans, who named it Augusta Treverorum - City of Augustus in the territory of the Treveri. Then in 1 BC when Gaius Julius Ceasar conquered Gaul he claimed the Moselle region, which included Trier, for the Roman empire.

It is the oldest city in Germany and also one of the most relaxed to visit. The ease with which you can travel in and around Trier is partially a result of the city's manageable size (the population is less than 100,000).

Trier is geographically easy to figure out too, wedged as it is into the 400-million-year-old slate hills of Eifel and Hunsruck. These hills around Trier and the many monuments within the city give visitors plenty of natural and man-made signposts.

After Koblenz, which is at least two hours' drive away, Trier is the largest city along the Mosel River; which winds its way for more than 193km from its beginning in France through Luxembourg and finally into Germany. The countryside is intensely green, the hills are unbelievably steep and almost every available hillside spot is planted with perfectly tended rows of grape vines. And wine is an intrinsic part of any visit here.

Local wine labels do not sport the word Mosel alone, opting instead for the triumvirate Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in recognition of the other two important nearby rivers. The Ruwer is a mere stream, but its banks are home to some of the greatest vineyards in Germany.

What makes the best wine of the region great is its longevity. This is riesling country and the best can last 40-50 years and still seem incredibly fresh. The long, cool ripening climate produces enigmatic wines by yielding grapes that are naturally high in acidity and fermented relatively sweet to give balance.

To experience the best wines you must visit some top wine producers rather than sticking only to the hundreds of tempting roadside wine stalls, which are fun but not always incredibly tasty.

Back in the city of Trier a tour of the main monuments is essential to get a grasp on the history of the place. The unmissable Porta Nigra (black gate) was built in the second century AD as part of the once 6.4km-long city wall. The gate and other remnants of the wall dotted around the city reveal an incredible engineering feat - sandstone held together only by iron clamps.

There are five museums in Trier but plenty of outdoor history, too, with an amphitheatre and several Roman baths. A drive along the Mosel is a must and nearby Luxembourg also beckons - it is just 40 away minutes on the autobahn.

The Hauptmarkt in the centre of Trier is a large, open space that makes the city seem like a friendly village. The best cafes, tucked into the corners of this market place, are eerily quiet affairs, but they boast croissants to rival the best in Paris and coffee that can stand its grounds with anything from Italy.

The city of Trier has a rich past in more ways than one. It continues to be a relatively well-heeled place, which is evident in the many top-end design stores scattered throughout the city.

The history brings people here but it is the wine, the natural beauty and the laid-back atmosphere that keep them coming back.

Trier University

Visit Germany

Case Notes

INFORMATION: Contact Trier Tourist Information Office, Simeonstift, Porta Nigra, Trier, ph 0049-651 978 080/fax 0049-651 447 59, or contact the Germany Embassy in Wellington, ph (04) 473 6063.

FLIGHTS: Lufthansa German Airlines offers regular services to Frankfurt from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.

Airfares to Frankfurt are priced from $2199 return, which includes a stopover in another European city of your choice. For further details on Lufthansa packages and airfares contact your travel agent or call Lufthansa, ph 0800 945 220.

ACCOMMODATION: There are plenty of hotels in Trier but many of the nearby villages offer prettier settings and sometimes slightly cheaper prices, and some are as close as a 5-10km drive from Trier city.