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At first sight Mumbai exactly one week after it was thrown into turmoil by the devastating terrorist attack seemed its usual chaotic, rather manic self. But, as I was driven from the airport into the central city, it was obvious that this was a city both in shock
and in defiant mood.
I had never dreamed that I would have to go near the most seriously affected part of the city but the airline office I needed to visit was located there ... I had no option. What were the chances I wondered, of being scheduled to fly from a city hit by terrorism to a city with an airport closed through political protest (Bangkok)? This must have been the ultimate travel mayhem jackpot.
Along the way into Mumbai, past posh hotels, slums and in the midst of the morning traffic gridlocks we were travelling slowly enough to read the giant billboard posters that had appeared since the events of last week.
"Enough is enough - ordinary citizens ask questions" proclaimed one.
Car manufacturer Mercedes had two huge signs expressing their gratitude to those who had lost their lives in the gun fights with the terrorists.
There was something rather surreal about the juxtaposition of these sombre messages with posters for a new series of 90210, gold-encrusted saris and the latest in mobile phones.
Closer to south Mumbai were more - "Enough of Tolerance? Speak Up", and "We salute our brave army".
There was no obvious evidence of increased security until we passed a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Ganesh.
"It was a target," my friend remarked, pointing to the sandbagged gun emplacement at the front gate.
Behind it crouched a uniformed man with what look liked a fairly serious piece of weaponry.
"He is not an ordinary soldier," he said "He is a commando."
He also pointed out that on the dashboard of our car was a 10cm-high illuminated Ganesh statue made of green and clear plastic. I assumed that meant we would be okay.
We drove through a Muslim neighbourhood. I asked my friend if there was tension between Mumbai's Hindus and Muslims.
"No, no everything is fine," he said. But later I read in the Times of India that there had been anti-Muslim posters seen around town. Rifts had been created that would take time to heal.
We drove along the boulevard along which on previous visits I had joined throngs of locals promenading beside the sea. There were a few people but not nearly as many as normal.
At an intersection a flashing red neon sign declared: "Together we shall vanquish the terror - report all strangers."
We emerged on to the Queen's Necklace - the marine drive that runs curves around Chowpatty Beach.
"We mourn but we shall never lose our spirit" proclaimed another sign.
I tried to look like a local. There were still those quirky aspects of Mumbai to make one smile such as the sign on the garage that offered to do "repair work on old cars like in the past".
A small boy clutching a stack of books banged on the window as we waited at the lights. He held up a copy of the current literary sensation in India White Tiger and when I showed him my copy on the seat beside me he was undeterred and instead held up a copy of Khaled Hosseini's A Thousand Splendid Suns.
We were approaching the Oberoi, scene of one of the most intensive of the terrorist attacks.
Metal barriers had been set around the hotel and a cordon of security tape ringed the block it. Uniformed and armed men were everywhere, although no one looked to be on particularly high alert.
It was clear Mumbai residents were trying to get life back to normal but the streets were not as crammed with pedestrians as usual. Even the traffic seemed a little less dense. It will take time for the memories of last week's death and mayhem to subside.
My friend told me of the number of tours that had been cancelled and how tourist guides were planning a peace rally that night. They would take food to the attack victims in hospital. He hoped people would start to return again.
I am sure they will but it is still a little sobering to have a bag check at the front gate to my hotel grounds and to be ferried up the driveway in a hotel car, the only vehicles to be allowed access.
Comforting, but at the same it brought home the seriousness with which the city was now taking its security. Once at the front entrance my bags were screened and I was sent through the x-ray machine.
"You know, the Taj had none of this before the attack" my friend said, "there were failings everywhere."
In my room there was special letter from the manager telling me that everyone was in deep shock and disbelief and that the hotel was on red alert.
He also warned guests about avoiding travel to southern Mumbai where I had just spent the morning and that professional security was on duty around the clock. I hope it all proves unnecessary.
"We are not sure," said my friend. "Some reports say that there were just 10 terrorists, nine are dead and one is arrested. But then some say there are two who are still somewhere..."
I thought of him as I boarded my plane and flew away from the city - relieved and at the same time guilty that I could do so, unlike most of Mumbai's resilient but nervous millions of citizens.
- For pictures of protests and vigils held by Mumbai residents in the wake of the attacks, click here.
Pictured above: A bouquet of flowers in memory of the victims of the Mumbai terror attacks is placed on the pavement as Indian police officers stand guard near the landmark Taj Hotel. Photo / AP
